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Scottish Hostellers Canoe Club
Isle of Barra Weekend
22-26 May 2009
Kisimul Castle
Those in Party: Neil and Lynn Hammond, in Island Expeditions,
Gerry Clifford, Quest, Liz Leavy, Skye and Tom Patton Carolina.
Work and other factors meant that only a long weekend could
be taken so we arranged to meet at the boatshed early on Friday
Morning. Neil had arranged to borrow a canoe trailer whichcertainly helped with the loadings on the cars. Most of my gear
was carried by Gerry while I kept Neils rear wheels in contact
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with the road. With this in mind I really pared down my kit,
electing to take my daughters T-in-the Park tent in preference
to my usual one for weight and bulk reasons. This was not a
good decision as it later proved. Even though I would only be
taking clothing and camping gear, there was still quite a volumeof kit to store in the cars. Notice, dear reader, there is no
mention of scurvy prevention medicine or other ardent spirits as
these would have added to the weight.
Boats and trolleys were duly loaded and lashed down and with a
fine day in prospect we left the boatshed only slightly later than
planned, at about 9.00 am and headed north towards Oban.
The earlier than normal departure time of the ferry meant that
the planned comfort stop at Tyndrum was abandoned.
Had we taken more cognisance of the weather forecast we would
have reverted to Plan B, (Destination Arisaig) and more
sheltered waters.
Duly arrived at Oban we hurried to load the canoes onto theirtrolleys, pack them and get into position for wheeling them on
board. As we still had a few minutes to spare we took a stroll
along the pier, passing a couple of seafood stalls on the way.
Merchandise looked good and customers seemed pleased with
their fare. Coffees were being demanded so we headed to a
restaurant to carry-out some of the life giving liquid. I managed
to purchase a container of chips(1.50 quite good value) andthey were set upon by the group, just the thing to tide us over
until we get a meal on board M.V Clansma
There is now no charge for canoes as they travel as hand
luggage. Previously my canoe has been charged as half a
dinghy and a bicycle. John Mackie informs me that his boat
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was designated as an empty coffin on one of his trips.
Boats loaded and ready to go at Oban
.
The journey to time to Castlebay is five hours or so, by Neils
reckoning, that was one beer an hour and this proved to be
true. Not the cheapest bar on the planet but certainly one with
the best views. Meals proved adequate and reasonably priced.
It was pleasant to see the coastline and places visited in timespast and to dwell for a while on the memories, sobering to know
that many of those trips wont be undertaken again unless I get
a transfusion of monkey glands or a complete body transplant.
The sun shone and the sea was calm all the way to Castlebay.
Kisimul Castle was a little bit of a letdown, Kisimul Castle our
ancient glory runs the words of the song Kisimuls Galley but
so small that the car ferry dwarfed it. Scottish Heritage are
spending much treasure on its restoration and it is open to the
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enquire if they knew of any place we might camp. Anywhere
was the reply No one will mind. A little later the girls appeared
saying they had found a spot to the west along the road joining
the main road from the pier. Hauling our boats up a side street
we noticed a few sites that would have been suitable but for theabandoned cars and other sundry junk. On gaining the road I
noticed what appeared to a very suitable spot immediately east
of the Castlebay Hotel with just enough ground for the three
tents. Not sure if it was part of the hotel gardens, we sought and
were given approval from the folk in the hotel. There we
gratefully hauled our boats, erected the tents and laid out our
sleeping gear before partaking of Lynn and Lizs repast then itwas off to the pub for a survey. Food untried, Bf7. Camping so
close to the hotel was good for facilities whilst it was open but
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the street lighting made night excursions rather public.
Campsiteat Ledaig
Saturday
It being decided, by the girls, that we decamp and repair to the
first site mooted and so, after breakfast, we once again prepared
the kayaks for a road journey then set off to (667 975) a few
hundred meters past Ledaig.(pronounced lay chug),so we were
informed by one of the locals later that night. Quite a nice little
spot but lacking in fresh water supply and a fair leaving beach,
better when tide is in and two resident horses on the lookout for
titbits. Hearing the weather forecast on the V.H.F radio that
very high winds were imminent, we pitched our tents best we
could in preparation.
Putting our boats in the water we took a leisurely course almostdue south taking the channel between Orasaig and Barra before
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turning west outside the southern skerry then headed north to
circle the castle and back to camp. Later a walk in town to do
some shopping. Folk on Barra would seem to get their socks
and the like from Oban as there were plenty of grocers, bakers
and souvenir shops but no clothiers. Back at the tent, bondedstores were consumed during a blether before retiring to a rising
wind.
I awoke to the tent poles rattling me on the head. The T-in-the-
Park tent was being blown flat by the wind. It flashed through
my mind that I had read of a chap blown to his death over a cliff
when the wind caught his tent. I hastily got out of my sleeping
bag and with not a little difficulty got the tent rolled and stowed
under some rocks. Gerry and Liz had a lodger that night.
Days travel 2 miles by boat.
Sunday
The wind had died down a bit but weather reports forecast moregales to come from the east. The coastline and experience of the
party determined that we should not venture far a field. Also
Gerry had a need to watch the football match that would
decide the League Championship, Gordon Strachans tenure as
manager of Celtic F.C. and whether the world would end should
Rangers win. So after another after another sojourn around
town we began to wonder if all the inhabitants had beenabducted by aliens as the place was deserted! We finally
managed to buy a cup of coffee at the local toffee makers
building but had to sit outside to drink it. Gerry and I had
much discussion on how to improve the business as we awaited
our order. While being served the owner apologised for the lack
of shelter and informed us that the last windbreak had not
withstood the previous winters storms nor could he allow us to
dine inside as he didnt have space. The owner was quite new to
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the island having moved here four years previously. Nice coffee,
reasonably priced.
After his umpteenth roll-up Gerry and I made our way back into
town. It now being after 11.30am the aliens had returned all the
folk and the pubs were open. Selecting the pub that had offered
us our first campsite we entered to ensure that the football
match would be showing on the big screen. Enough beer was
produced to last us through the first half and we settled back to
watch. Both halves were dire, Celtic refused to score, Rangers
won their game comfortably and Celtics fate as runners up was
sealed. ( Strachan was to leave a week or two later).
We were joined over Gerrys commiserate beer by Liz who,
having had to spend the time since breakfast on her ownsome,
thought that she might take a stroll and escort us homewards
for a bit of company, Neil and Lynn having left us shortly after
breakfast to walk to Vatersay. Leaving the hotel I suggested
that, in the interests of following canoeists, we were obliged to
survey the Craigard Hotel and report our findings. Liz wasnt forit at all so we promised to have only one pint and quickly join
her.
The lounge bar was full of music and song (obviously they
hadnt heard the Celtic result),one chap with eyes so close
together he could have looked through a telescope with both at
the same time played a box accordion, another played theclappers and a lady guest played the spoons. I joined them
playing the panel of a radiator as a bodrum. One pint turned to
two as we were joined on the accordion by one of the Vatersay
Boys. Tearing ourselves away we left avowing to return. Bf8.
Meals, if there were any were not tried.
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Liz on a Vatersay Beach
Back at camp I re-erected my tent adding extra guy lines wherepossible and put rocks over the pegs. As I was footering a tall
slim man was making his way along the dirt track, getting
chatting I found that he was a relief priest over from Ireland to
stand in for the local priest who had gone off seminar in
Glasgow Not at all said I Hes away to the Celtic game To his
credit he took it well and after a few more pleasantries he
continued on his walk. Neil and Lynn returned from theirtravels and regaled us about the cakes and goodies that had
been available at a local do on Vatersay. No canoe travel.
Monday
Draughty during the night but not as bad as we feared and all
the tents were standing in the morning. Breakfast was obtained
from a small chalet type building near the play park at the west
end of the village. Good food and reasonably priced.
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The weather was settling now so after breakfast we made our
way to the water with our boats and headed south before
turning towards Vatersay, landing to survey campsites at (660
960). Some wonderful sheltered areas in the dunes, great sites
but for the lack of fresh water and the distance from the watersedge when the tide is out in this beautiful sandy strand. There
is a house nearby but habitation is unknown, so too a road to
Castlebay with a number of houses en route where water could
be obtained.
Putting the boats back into the azure blue water we headed east
along the coast to put in for a bite to eat at (645 965) along side
a small jetty. Back in the boats we crossed to Barra taking a
boat tour round the castle on our way.
Back at camp we readied ourselves for an early start on the
morrow and decided that we would dine out that evening, to
this end we booked a table in the Kisimul Caf. The food was
excellent and reasonably priced though the wine and beer was
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on the expensive side. Returning to camp in fine fettle we
consumed the last of our bonded stores. Wood had been
gathered for the proposed fire but this did not transpire even
though the wind had dropped to light airs. Soon asleep.
Tuesday
Early rise to pack the boats and to be at the ferry terminal by
08.30. Once aboard with kayaks stowed we made our way to the
dining area for a full Scottish breakfast which was gleefully
tucked away. This set us up for the return 5 hour crossing back
to Oban. Some folk made full use of the soft chairs by having a
snooze. An uneventful crossing that showed no signs in thewater of the gales of the couple of days previous. Once ashore
and the cars loaded we set off for home.
Verdict
A good trip spoiled by bad weather. Virtually two days were
spent in travel and this curtailed us somewhat. A week or a
fortnight would have been much better allowing us a trip to
Mingulay or north to the islands off the east coast of Barra, or
even further.
The price of the crossing at 22 return was good value and as I
said the boats travel free, A place to return to with gale-proof
tents.
Submitted by Tom Patton.
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