Kaunas Guide

8/12/2019 Kaunas Guide

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Kaunas

Kaunas:

Lithuanias second citytakes centre stage

N22 - 6Lt

nyourpocket.com

May 2014 - April 2015

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels


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May 2014 - April 2015 3facebook.com/inyourpocket

Contents

E S S E N T I A L

C I T Y G U I D E S

Arriving & Getting Around 5A moving experience made easy

City Basics 9Alcohol to visas

Culture & Events 11Art, music, festivals, photography and more

Where to eat 13A catalogue of cuisines

Nightlife 23Drinking, dancing and a little bit of nakedness

What to see 26

All the main sights and more

Where to stay 38From camping to Jacuzzis

Shopping 42

Mail & Phones 46Keeping in touch

Directory 47

Maps & IndexStreet index 48City centre map 49City map 50

Sts. Peter & Pauls Cathedral-Basilica (see p.27)

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Christs Resurrection Church (see p.26)


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4 KaunasIn Your Pocket kaunas.inyourpocket.com May 2014 - April 2015 5facebook.com/inyourpocket

Arriving & Getting AroundForewordFor many people, Kaunas is everything that Vilnius isnt: laid-back, relaxed, provincial and populated by people who donot have the superiority complex of those in the capital. Inour experience this is not entirely true: Kaunas is not all thatmuch smaller than Vilnius, can hardly be called provincial (itwas, after all, Lithuanias capital for decades) and while it is re-laxed it is home to some of the countrys best cultural institu-tions and is famed for its nightlife. Indeed, some in-the-knowparty peope will insist that the clubs of Kaunas knock thoseof Vilnius into next week. While all of these things are subjective and worthy ofdiscussion over several local beers, what we can say with allcertainty is that Kaunas deserves level billing with the capital.Whats more, given that the two cities are so close together,to visit one without a trip to the other is daft: Kaunas has adifferent flavour to Vilnius and merits exploration. Its a joyto explore on foot - not least in summer and particularly inautumn - and rewards the curious visitor with more hidden

treasures than just about anywhere else in Lithuania. Itstherefore highly likely that if you do visit Kaunas you will be-come one of many people who leaves Lithuania saying: Yes,Vilnius was great, but you know the place we reallyliked wasKaunas...

COVER STORY

There are several works by studentsfrom the Juozas Gruas Secondary ArtSchool displayed on a wall inside thecourtyard of Kaunas Puppet Theatre(see p.12), and this is one of them. Giv-en that Kaunas is home to some of thebest cultural institutions in the country,we thought it made the perfect cover.

PublisherVilnius In Your PocketBernardin 9 - 4, Vilnius, Lithuaniatel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, fax (+370) 5 212 29 [email protected], www.inyourpocket.comISSN 1822-1785 UAB VIYPPrinted by UAB Spaudos kontraiPublished once a yearPrint run up to 30,000

EditorialEditorCraig TurpDesignVaida GudynaitResearcherVaida KurseviitCover PhotoRta Klimaviit

Sales & CirculationPublisherVilnius In Your PocketGeneral ManagerRta KlimaviitAccountingV ACORDOSales ManagerTel. (+370) 610 468 64.

This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides areavailable for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, theVilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughoutKaunas and Lithuania as well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Kaunas In Your Pocket are alsoavailable in many hotels.

Copyright noticeText and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2015; some photos,LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extractsfor the purpose of review, without written permission from thepublisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocketis used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4,Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Despite Kaunas position in the centre of the countryand its former role as the countrys capital city, facili-ties awaiting fresh arrivals are almost entirely gearedtowards the local community, with little in the way ofmodern, helpful or efficient services. Much improvedairport terminal facilities have helped enormously, butfor everybody else arriving in Kaunas can be hard workto say the least. Getting around the city is relatively sim-ple once youve grasped the basics, with a large choiceof public transport options running throughout the dayand affordable taxis operating around the clock.

ARRIVING IN KAUNASWhether youre flying, coming by bus or train or even driv-ing to Kaunas yourself, arriving in the city has its good andbad points. At all of the following places, especially the busstation, keep your senses about you. Unattended bags and

possessions are apt to disappear in the blink of an eye.

BY BUSKaunas reasonably central bus station (autobus stotis),which handles all national and international journeys toand from the city, is a purely functional affair offering littlein the way of modernity or comfort. If youve been stuck ona bus with a locked toilet for hours, well maintained facili-ties (open 05:45 - 21:30, 1Lt) can be found hiding behindthe buildings in the southeast corner of the station. If youreonly in town for the day, you can leave your luggage in theSiuntos Autobusais (2Lt) in the northwest corner of the sta-tion. Take note of the opening hours on the door if youreleaving town on a bus during the evening. If you need cash,an ATM is located on the main street just in front of theticket office. Limited tourist information is available insidethe main ticket hall.

Getting to townThe bus station is a 15-minute walk tothe city centre and something more like a 25-minute strollaway from Old Town. If youre laden with luggage you

might prefer to take a taxi or public transport. To do thelatter, exit the station onto the main street and jump on atrolleybus, of which all pass through the centre. Taxis canbe found lurking all around the station. See Taxis for moreinformation.

BUS STATIONQF-4, Vytauto 24, tel. (+370) 37 40 90 60, www.autobusubilietai.lt. Open 05:45 - 22:30. Ticket officeopen 05:45 - 21:30. JA

BY CARAt the crossroads of the A1 (E85) Vilnius-Klaipda highwayand the Via Baltica, Kaunas is an attractive if somewhatchallenging place to visit by car. Its road network is a fright-ening squiggle of badly signposted asphalt full of holes andpopulated by a high percentage of drivers who give theimpression they never took a driving test. The city centre

features a rather complicated one-way system and parkingmeters that dont accept coins. Use guarded parking at alltimes and never leave valuables in your vehicle.

BY PLANEThe small and modern airport at Karmlava is about 12kmnorth of Kaunas. Once the formalities are out the way, findseveral information kiosks, a caf, a Narvesen kiosk forsnacks, soft drinks and pre-paid mobile phone SIM cards, abank, ATM, toilets and car rental outlets.

Getting to townTaxis can be found parked outside thearrivals hall. Try to negotiate a fare before setting off, andexpect to pay around 50Lt for a trip to the city centre. Localminibus N120 runs regularly to Old Town for a mere 3.00Lt.Pay the driver when you get in and let him know whereyou want to stop. You can also get city bus N29 and N29E

from the bus stop at the front of the airport, which passesthrough the centre as well as going to the bus and trainstations. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.40Lt.

KAUNAS AIRPORT KAUNO ORO UOSTASThe modern terminal at Kaunas Airpor t handles a grow-ing number of flights to and from destinations withinEurope, operated at the time of going to press by Ry-anair.QKarmlava, tel. (+370) 37 39 93 07, www.kaunas-airport.lt. Information open 08:00 - last flight.AULKW

BY TRAINTrains arrive in Kaunas from Vilnius, iauliai and a handful ofother destinations in-between. The imposing Socialist Real-ist building was completed in 1953 and is worth a quicklook around. Of particular interest is the main hall, featuringsome classic white sheaves of wheat in relief high up on thewalls. Despite the s witch to capitalism, facilities havent im-proved much. Toilets (free) can be found downstairs. If youwant to leave your bags, dont bring very large ones as the

lockers (4Lt) next to the ticket office arent very big. Theresan ATM, an average caf and a branch of the Regional Tour-ist Information Centre and not a lot else inside.

Getting to townIf you dont want to walk the 20-minutesor so required to get to the centre, catch a trolleybus acrossthe street, reached via the underpass at the front of thebuilding. All trolleybuses go via the city centre. Taxis canusually be found waiting just to the right as you leave thestation.

TRAIN STATIONQK-5, M. K. iurlionio 16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. Open 04:00 - 22:15. Ticket office open 04:10 -21:20.JAW

www.inyourpocket.com

CZECH

REPUBLIC

SOUTH

AFRICA

DUTCH

CARIBBEAN

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIA

GREECE

FYRMACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALY

CROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANY

BELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERN

IRELAND

IRELAND

ABOUT IYP

We have come a long way in the 22years since we published the first InYour Pocketguide - to Vilnius in Lithu-ania - so much so that we are today thelargest publisher of locally-producedcity guides in the world. The recentpublication of a guide to the islands ofthe Dutch Caribbean- our first in theWestern Hemisphere - has taken thenumber of guides published each yearby In Your Pocket to well over five milli-on, spread across more than 100 citieson three continents. And there is moreto come: make sure you keep up with allthats new at In Your Pocketby liking uson Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpo-cket) or following us on Twitter(twitter.com/inyourpocket).


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INTERNATIONAL BUS

SCHEDULE

From Kaunas To Kaunas

Dep Arr Destination Dep Arr

00:30 15:00 BERLIN 14:30 06:50

16:151 06:40 BERLIN 20:302 13:05

16:50 07:15 BERLIN 21:30 14:10

16:151 16:45 COLOGNE 10:152 13:05

16:151 05:45 LONDON 21:303 13:05

00:30 10:40 POZNAN 01:30 14:10

16:50 03:15 POZNAN 18:35 06:50

16:50 09:30** PRAGUE 13:30 08:15***

22:004 11:50 ROME 15:005 06:40

16:156

19:30 STUTTGART 08:007

13:0500:30 05:40 WARSAW(Dw.Centralny 04)

06:05 14:10

16:50 22:10 WARSAW(Dw.Centralny 04)

23:05 06:50

00:30** 06:25 WARSAW(Airport)

06:05** 14:10

16:50** 22:55 WARSAW(Airport)

22:20** 06:50

Valid until April 30, 2015.

Days of the week (1=Monday)11 2* - 4 - 6 -. 21 - 3 4 - 6 -. 3- 2 3* - 5 - 7. 4- - - 4 - 6* -.5- 2* - - - - 7. 6- - 3* - 5 - 7. 7- 2 - - 5* - 7. *July August.**Bus change. ***Final destination is Vilnius not Kaunas.Correct at the time of going to press and subject tochange during the lifetime of this guide. Not all serviceslisted. More information at www.eurolines.lt

TAXIS

The rule in Lithuania is to always call for one in advanceif you want to pay a sensible rate. If you do take one inthe street, make sure the meter is running before youdepart, and if youre taking one long distance, negoti-ate a fare, or you may end up in all sorts of trouble.

EINESAQTel. (+370) 37 33 15 33 (2.20Lt*)

AIBIKAS GREITISQTel. (+370) 37 23 44 44, (+370)37 33 31 11 (2.20Lt*)

* Price per kilometer. Prices listed are for standard day-time/evening journeys within the city limits

PUBLIC TRANSPORTBuses & TrolleybusesA substantial network of city-owned buses and trolleybusescriss-crosses the city seven days a week from around 05:00until about 23:00. In the summer of 2012 Kaunas imple-mented a ticket system in favour of electronic cards, the so-called Kauno Miesto Kortel (Kaunas City Card). Cards can bebought from any Kauno Spauda kiosk or Narvesen kiosk for8Lt and can be topped up with any amount. Rides using theKauno Miesto Kortel are charged at 2.00Lt, with each ticketvalid for any length of time on one vehicle or a total of 30minutes if riding in two separate buses and/or trolleybuses.Hold the card on the appropriate machine inside the vehicleto validate the journey. Alternatively, tickets for a single jour-ney can be bought from the driver for 2.40Lt. A very smallfleet of buses and trolleybuses also run a limited scheduleof journeys through the night in Kaunas, albeit only on Fri-

days and Saturdays. Trolleybuses N14N and N13N ploughroutes between the very end of Savanori and the train sta-tion. Bus N37N runs at ninety degrees to this route between

Vilijampol and aliakalnis. Although all city-owned busesand trolleybuses are supposed to come to a standstill at eve-ry stop, some, especially during the evening and through thenight, dont bother. Make sure youre hovering near a dooraround the same time you want to get off or you could findyourself overshooting the journey. Route maps and sched-ules are posted at all stops, making getting around the citya fairly simple task. For more information, see the excellentwebsite at www.kvt.lt.

MinibusesThe private minibus (marrutinis taksi) is one of the greatestsocial inventions of all time. In Kaunas they often sport thesame numbers and plough the same routes as the above-mentioned machines, but have the advantages of not hav-ing to stop everywhere and being able to weave in and outof traffic. Slightly more expensive to travel on at 3.00Lt for ajourney of any length, stick your arm out anywhere in the

street, pay the driver (or pass the money down the minibus ifits busy) and shout when you want to stop.

CAR RENTALAVISQKarmlava (Kaunas Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 6820 (24hrs)/(+370) 698 448 31 (hotline 24hrs), [email protected], www.avis.lt. A

BUDGETQKarmlava (Kaunas Airport), tel. (+370) 5230 67 08/(+370) 640 408 20, www.budget.lt. Open09:00 - 18:00. A

HERTZQKarmlava (Kaunas Airport), tel. (+370) 37 3991 56 (24hrs), www.hertz.lt. A

AIRLINESRYANAIRQKarmlava (Kaunas Airport), tel. (+370) 3775 01 95/(+370) 5 232 93 77, [email protected], w ww.ryanair.com. Open 03:45 - 16:30.

CYCLINGAn ideal location for cyclists, Lithuania is as flat as a pan-cake, has relatively little traffic, a bracing coastline and lotsof interesting sights scattered around. Although more hillythan the average Lithuanian city, cycling around the Kau-nas is an option worth considering, especially as many ofthe sights are spread far and wide.

DVIRAI RSYSA long establised place in the city centre where bicycles canbe bought, repaired and rented.QE-3, Miko 30, tel. (+370)37 20 87 65, [email protected], www.dviratispro.lt. Open10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

EKOTURIZMO CENTRAS BABILONAS ECOTOURISM CENTER BABILONAS A good selectionof rental bikes for adults plus the additional option of hel-mets, kids seats etc. available to guests and non-guests

alike. Rental prices start at 20Lt/hour and a 350Lt de-

posit is required. Tours also arranged.QD-1, alioji 38a(Babilonas hotel), tel. (+370) 37 20 25 45, [email protected], www.babilonas.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00.A

FUNICULARSThe combination of its unusually steep hills and the ambitiousgrowth of the city between the wars has provided Kaunas withtwo separate funicular railways. Built as both public transportfor the locals as well as a curious temptation for tourists, a rideon them is highly recommended for the experience as well asthe views of the city from the top.

ALEKSOTAS FUNICULARThe Aleksotas Funicular at the southern end of Aleksoto Tilt-as boasts a fine view of the city. Opened in 1935, the origi-nal fare was a mere 0.10Lt for adults, and the price remainsrelatively cheap to this day at just 2.00Lt. The view of the cityfrom the top is wonderful and well worth the treck over thebridge. Tickets are bought from the lady who rides in thevehicle with you, although be warned they have plans to

possibly close during July.QA-4, Amerikos Lietuvi 6, tel.(+370) 37 39 10 86. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 13:00 - 18:00. Sat09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 2Lt.

ALIAKALNIS FUNICULARThe 140m aliakalnis Funicular is the nearest of the twofuniculars to the city centre and is a fun r ide in itself as wellas a quick way of getting from the city centre to the areaaround Savanori at the top of the hill. The ride costs just1Lt, with tickets sold at the bottom station only. If youretravelling with children beware of the doors, which openand close automatically. Sometimes they dont closeproperly and can be left wide open during the journey.Find the bottom station just two minutes from the cen-tre between Putvinskio and Auros, and the top station,which also doubles as a p hotographic gallery, immediatelysouth of the Christs Resurrection Church.QE-2, Auros 6,tel. (+370) 37 42 58 82, www.kaunoliftai.lt. O pen 07:00 -19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Tickets 1Lt. J

LONG-DISTANCE BUSESECOLINES

The Lithuanian outfit of the large European network pro-vides all the usual transport services including cheap busjourneys in the region and further afield. Other things in-clude insurance, visas, tourism services and bus rental.QF-4, Vytauto 23, tel. (+370) 37 20 20 22, [email protected], www.ecolines.net. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -15:00. Closed Sun. Also at Geleinkelio 15, Vilnius, tel.(+370) 5 213 33 00. JA

KAUTRA QF-4, Vytauto 24, tel. (+370) 37 40 90 70,www.kautra.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.Closed Sun. JA

LUX EXPRESSQSod 20b-1, Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 23366 66, www.luxexpress.eu. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun

09:00 - 19:00. JA

TRAIN SCHEDULE

From Kaunas To Kaunas

Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.

15:214 17:44 IAULIAI 18:504 21:18

04:562 06:30 VILNIUS 04:481 05:55

05:33 07:20 VILNIUS 04:56 06:38

06:231 07:38 VILNIUS 06:20 07:37

07:05 08:45 VILNIUS 07:30 08:49

08:09 09:23 VILNIUS 08:47 10:25

09:06 10:40 VILNIUS 09:45 10:50

10:55 12:42 VILNIUS 10:25 11:38

12:08 13:20 VILNIUS 11:13 12:29

13:40 15:15 VILNIUS 11:40 13:16

14:40 15:49 VILNIUS 12:25 13:30

15:30 17:12 VILNIUS 14:05 15:20

16:32 17:38 VILNIUS 14:50 16:2717:05 18:16 VILNIUS 15:57 17:04

17:20 19:05 VILNIUS 16:30 17:35

17:55 19:11 VILNIUS 16:45 18:27

18:41 19:50 VILNIUS 17:30 18:39

19:07 20:48 VILNIUS 17:52 19:20

19:44 20:56 VILNIUS 18:30 20:12

20:19 21:45 VILNIUS 19:52 21:09

21:28 22:44 VILNIUS 20:403 22:091Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. 2Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat.3Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. 4Fri, Sun.Valid June 1,2014 - April 30, 2015.

Correct at the time of going to press and subject tochange during the lifetime of this guide. More infor-mation at ww w.litrail.lt


Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around


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ALCOHOLAlmost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist andyoure recommended to test a few before settling on aregular brand. Among the more common varieties are themagnificent vyturys from Klaipda, Utenos from Utenaand Kalnapilis from Panevys. Be warned, Lithuanianbeers tend to be stronger than their Western counterparts,making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) achallenge after just a couple of the most lethal. In Kaunas,expect to pay somewhere in the region of 5-10Lt for half alitre of local beer. Lithuanian vodka (degtin) is cheap, gen-erally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the mererumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more interest-ing spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-Lithuanian con-coction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leavesand lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater, samagonas,available through the right connections. Take note thatimported alcohol isnt cheap. At the time of writing it wasillegal to buy alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00anywhere in Lithuania.

CRIME & SAFETYIt is not an exaggeration to say that Lithuania is one of thesafest countries to visit in Europe. While petty crime - mainlyin the form of pickpocketing - is as big a problem in thiscountry as anywhere else in the world, violent crime is al-most unheard of. Even late at night you will not usually bepresented with any potential threats whilst walking aroundcity centres, and this goes for single women as much as forlarge groups of lads. That said, you do need to keep your witsabout you, and be sure that if you go looking for trouble youmight well find it. Keep your valuables close to hand, par-ticularly on busy buses and trolleybuses, and do not leavecoats and handbags unattended in bars, pubs and clubs.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

While things have greatly improved for the disabled overthe past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to getaround on anything other than two well functioning legs.Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are oftenflanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbledstreets. Outside the capital, youll be lucky to find anythought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The newerbuses and trolleybuses in Kaunas have low entries, spacesfor wheelchairs and hearing loops and are marked on elec-tronic timetables with a prefix.

DRIVINGThe basic rules of the Lithuania n r oads are as follows:seat belts are compulsory for all (both driver and pas-sengers), and headlights must be used at all times ofday or night. All vehicles must be fitted with a smallfire-extinguisher and first aid kit, and you will need tohave your driving license and vehicle registration pa-

pers with you at all times. The speed limit around townis 50kph unless otherwise indicated. Elsewhere youcan drive at 90kph on main roads, 70kph on unpavedroads. Note that on the countrys highways the usualspeed limit of 130kph is reduced to 110kph during thewinter. Winter tyres are mandatory between November10 and April 10. During the winter, youll also want tomake sure you have an ice scraper and maybe a brushfor getting all the weather off your car before you setoff. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h un-less indicated otherwise. A list of car rental companiescan be found on p.6.

ELECTRICITYLovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still ex-ist, although if you push hard enough you should get theplug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies shouldbring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible

to find in Lithuania.

MONEY & COSTSThe unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas(Lt), whichcomes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Ltand 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number ofweightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centcoins. The litasis pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Ltto 1, and while Lithuania is expected to adopt the euroon January 1st, 2015, there will be a transition period of atleast three months during which time both currencies willbe accepted. Most places of any note in Kaunas happily ac-cept major credit cards, and ATMs are ubiquitous. If youreplanning a trip to the countryside however, make sure youtake plenty of cash along as it can still be rather old fash-ioned to say the least. Kaunas is no longer the cheap city forforeigners it used to be, although it still offers value to mostvisitors from the West. A good night out for two in Kaunas

BASIC DATA

PopulationLithuania 2,972,949Kaunas 304,097Ethnic composition (Lithuania)Lithuanians 84.1%Poles 6.6%Russians 5.8%Belarusians 1.2%Ukrainians 0.5%Others 1.8%Territory 65,303k m2Roughly twice the size of Belgium,and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatestdistance is 276km, east to west is 373kmBordersBaltic Sea 99kmBelarus 502kmLatvia453kmPoland 91kmRussia (Kaliningrad)227kmLongest river Nemunas937km(475kmin Lithuania)Largest lakeDrkiai 4,479haHighest pointAuktasis 293.8m

LOCAL BUS SCHEDULEALYTUS06:10, 07:00, 07:30, 08:05, 08:55, 09:55, 10:10, 10:20,10:30, 10:50, 11:10, 11:30, 11:50, 12:15, 12:50, 13:10,13:40, 13:50, 14:05, 14:40, 15:10, 15:45, 16:10, 16:30,17:00, 17:40, 18:10, 18:55, 19:50, 20:201.

BIRTONAS06:45, 07:55, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:30, 10:00, 10:30,11:00, 11:30, 12:00, 12:15, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 13:50,

14:00, 14:45, 15:30, 16:00, 16:30, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00,18:30, 19:00, 19:30, 20:30.

KDAINIAI05:252, 06:00, 06:30, 07:15, 07:30, 08:00, 08:25, 08:40,09:00, 09:20, 09:40, 10:00, 10:40, 11:15, 11:45, 12:25,12:40, 13:00, 13:50, 14:30, 14:50, 15:00, 15:20, 15:40,16:00, 16:20, 16:45, 17:00, 17:30, 18:10, 18:40, 19:10,20:00.

KLAIPDA00:40, 06:25, 06:35, 08:25, 08:30, 09:35, 10:30, 11:30,11:55, 12:30, 13:15, 13:55, 14:50, 16:10, 17:30, 18:00,18:303, 20:00.

NIDA08:30.

PALANGA00:40, 06:25, 09:35, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 13:55, 14:50,18:303.

IAULIAI05:252, 06:002, 06:20, 06:40, 07:30, 08:40, 09:15, 10:00,11:152, 12:202, 13:05, 13:40, 14:30, 14:504, 15:20, 16:00,16:10, 16:45, 17:50, 18:40, 20:05.

VILNIUS04:05, 05:30, 05:55, 06:00, 06:102, 06:302, 06:50, 07:10,07:30, 07:50, 07:55, 08:10, 08:30, 08:45, 09:00, 09:10,09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:00, 10:20, 10:30, 10:45, 11:00,11:15, 11:30, 11:45, 12:00, 12:15, 12:40, 12:55, 13:10,13:30, 13:45, 14:00, 14:15, 14:30, 14:45, 15:00, 15:15,15:25, 15:40, 15:55, 16:10, 16:30, 16:40, 16:50, 17:00,17:20, 17:30, 17:40, 17:50, 18:00, 18:15, 18:30, 18:45,19:00, 19:15, 19:45, 20:05, 20:40, 21:30.

Valid until April 30, 2015.1Sun, 2Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, 3Fri, Sun, 4Mon, Tue,Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going topress and subject to change during the lifetime of thisguide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the bestresource for up-to-date, accurate information abouttravelling by bus in Lithuania.

MAPS & MONEYA map of Kaunas is well worth packing before you set off,although many hotels and the Tourist Information Centredo have a few excellent maps for free. Most bookshops and

TOURIST INFORMATION

KAUNAS TOURIST INFORMATION KAUNOTURIZMO INFORMACIJOS CENTRAS IRKONFERENCIJ BIURAS Information onthings to see and do in the city and surroundingarea as well as information and advice on placesto stay.QE-2, Laisvs 36, tel. (+370) 37 32 34 36,[email protected], www.kaunastic.lt. Open 09:00- 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open(May, September) 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00,Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Open (June, July,August) 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun10:00 - 15:00. Also at Kaunas Airport, Vytauto 24,K. Donelaiio 27 (Park Inn by Radisson Kaunas),M. K. iurlionio 16, Rotus 15. J

large supermarkets in Lithuania stock them. Several of theplaces listed in this guide, including almost all of the mu-seums, only accept cash. Be sure to carr y some with you atall times. ATMs can be found in abundance around the city.

TRAVEL AGENCIESBALTIC CLIPPERQD-2, Laisvs 61-1, tel. (+370) 37 3203 00, [email protected], www.bc.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA

MS ODISJAQA-2, M. Valaniaus 19, tel. (+370) 3740 84 10, [email protected], www.musuodiseja.lt. Open08:00 - 22:00. JA

ZIGZAG.LT QD-2, E. Oekiens 27-10, tel. (+370) 3740 71 40, [email protected], www.zigzag.lt. Open 09:00- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

Lithuanian Railways train, photo by Vaida Kurseviit


City BasicsArriving & Getting Around


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7/27

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking 6 Pet-friendly

X Smoking place J Old town location

E Live music STake away

I Fireplace W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating V Home delivery

With the exception of a handful of amusing and/or ap-palling disasters, eating out in Kaunas is both excellentand relatively affordable for all. The citys restaurantsand cafs literally cater to taste buds of every persua-sion, offering everything from vast plates of potato-based local specialities to a wide and generally palat-able concoction of dishes from the kitchens of far awayplaces such as India. Tipping, if deserved, is up to thediner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of the bill bothbeing acceptable.

CHINESEJUODAS

The name means, quite simply, Black. What they serve isa Chinese and Japanese version of fast food, which is allcooked fresh and which given the size of the portions andthe sheer quality, is very well priced. The place too looks farmore expensive than it is, and there is a big terrace. Whatwe did not like was the loud music: while we are happy toeat an on-the-go lunch here, it is not really the kind of placewe would eat dinner.QC-2, Laisvs 106, tel. (+370) 615 33533, www.juodasbar.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. Also at Savanori 288.PTJAUBSW

PEKINASA fountain by the bar, a choice of odd-shaped rooms,friendly waitresses and better Chinese food than in manyother restaurants in town. The menu contains a goodrange of dishes, which come in ample portions for a goodprice. Good location too.QA/B-3, Vilniaus 8, tel. (+370) 3720 36 38. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Fri 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 12:00 -23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. TJABSW

RYT SAULYet another new Chinese restaurant, this one small in sizeand at the time of visiting packed to bursting with hungrylocals tucking into average Chinese food for affordableprices. The Lithuanian waitresses look sweet in their Chi-nese costumes, but tend to turn sour when under duress.The incessant Lithuanian pop music and Scooby Dooonthe television didnt help much to creating the right kindof atmosphere either. Avoid when the office crowds are

(+370) 37 32 79 40, www.galerija101.lt. Open 11:00 -17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

PHOTOGRAPHYKAUNAS PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY KAUNOFOTOGRAFIJOS GALERIJA The gallery is run by asmall team of young photographers. Completely renovatedin 2010, it is located in a superb Old Town location oppositeSts. Peter & Pauls Cathedral-Basilica. At 200 square metresits one of the largest and most important photographicand contemporary art galleries in the region. See the web-site for information on current and future exhibitions.QA-3,Rotus 1, tel. (+370) 37 32 17 89, www.kaunasgallery.lt.Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J

THEATRESKAUNAS DANCE THEATRE AURA KAUNOOKIO TEATRAS AURA A well known contemporarydance company founded by the dancer Birut Letukait.QB-2, M. Daukos 30a, tel. (+370) 37 20 20 62, www.aura.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

KAUNAS LITTLE THEATRE KAUNO MAASISTEATRAS A small theatre company based in Old Town.QB-3, M. Daukos 34, tel. (+370) 37 40 84 70, www.mazasisteatras.lt. Box office open Wed - Fri 15:00 -19:00, Sat 15:00 - 18:00, Sun two hours before events.Closed Mon, Tue. J

KAUNAS PUPPET THEATRE KAUNO LLI TEATRAS Established in 1958, Kaunas fine Puppet Theatreputs on several different performances a year for the ben-efit of local children. The theatre also houses a small mu-seum.QD-3, Laisvs 87a, tel. (+370) 37 22 16 91, www.kaunoleles.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. J

KAUNAS STATE DRAMA THEATRE NACIONA

LINIS KAUNO DRAMOS TEATRAS An austere ifintriguing piece of architecture in the heart of the city,putting on all manner of serious theatrical work fromLithuania and abroad.QD-3, Laisvs 71, tel. (+370) 37 2240 64, www.dramosteatras.lt. Box office open 10:30 -19:00. Closed June 15 - August 15. JA

KAUNAS STATE MUSICAL THEATRE KAUNOVALSTYBINIS MUZIKINIS TEATRAS Seating up to500 people, this fine building stages everything from op-era and operetta to other musical plays and performances.Over 200 shows a year between September and June. In-terestingly, this was also the venue for one of the strang-est pieces of theatre to take place in Lithuania, namely thecongress held inside the b uilding on July 21, 1940 that setthe scene for the incorporation of Lithuania into the SovietUnionQD-3, Laisvs 91, tel. (+370) 37 22 87 84/(+370)37 20 09 33, www.muzikinisteatras.lt. Box office open11:00 - 14:00; 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J

CINEMASFORUM CINEMAS KAUNASHollywood blockbusters in the city centre.QE-4, KaraliausMindaugo 49 (Akropolis), tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt.Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. JA

ROMUVAThe citys most famous cinema has been thoroughly ne-glected during recent years. A local pressure group are try-ing to breathe life into the building with occasional screen-ings and festivals.QE-2, Laisvs 54, tel. (+370) 670 268 40,[email protected], www.ktromuva.lt. Box office open16:30 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 20:0 0, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Also 2hours before the event. Closed Mon, Tue. J

CONCERT HALLSKAUNAS PHILHARMONIC KAUNO FILHARMONIJA The citys main venue for classical and seriousmusic.QD-2, L. Sapiegos 5, tel. (+370) 37 20 04 78, w ww.kaunofilharmonija.lt. Box office open 14:00 - 18:00.Closed Mon. JA

ALGIRIO ARENAThe citys multipurpose arena on the small island close to thecity centre features not only state-of-the-art sports facilities,but a host of other entertainment options, plus restaurants,bars and other facilities associated with modern indoors sportsarenas.QD/E-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 50, tel. (+370) 37 35 4403, [email protected], www.zalgirioarena.lt. Box officeopen 11:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun from 12:00. PJAKW

GALLERIESEGLS GALERIJAAn interesting gallery promoting the work of contemporaryLithuanian artists including painters, jewellers and ceramicartists. Work ranges from the sublime to the ridiculous.QA-2, Raguvos 9-2, tel. (+370) 37 20 58 72, www.emm.lt.

Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

KAUNO LANGASA whole range of contemporary, antique and folk art frompainting to graphics to ceramics.QA-2, M. Valaniaus 5-6,tel. (+370) 37 20 55 38, www.klangas.lt. Open 10:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

MENO PARKASThe gallery of the Lithuanian Artists Association showcasescontemporary art by Lithuanian and international artists work-ing in several media.QA-3, Rotus 27, tel. (+370) 37 33 71 65,www.menoparkas.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.Closed Sun. A

VDU GALERIJA 101A small gallery owned and run by one of the citys univer-sities, exhibitions are temporary and include everythingfrom photography to painting.QE-2, Laisvs 53, tel.

eating and it does get slightly better.QB-3, Vilniaus 13-20, tel. (+370) 37 20 92 24. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PJAS

EGYPTIANRAMZIS IIHidden away inside a small courtyard, this place is a real find.The Egyptian and Lebanese food is simply knockout and thedcor is fun. The best option is to do it properly and order atable-load of small dishes. With excellent falafel and equallygood hummus, the bread lets the side down slightly, butthis definitely rates as one of the citys top places to eat. Asmall terrace opens during the warmer months, plus theresbubble pipes and the occasional belly dancing to add fur-ther flavour, although the latter usually requires an extrapayment to attend.QB-2, M. Daukos 29, tel. (+370) 655293 30, www.ramzis.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun

14:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. 13Lt.PTAEBS

FINE DININGUOKSASThis is probably the best restaurant in the city. Two amazingchefs create food which combines taste and art. The menuis brief - as it should be - and changes regularly, as the em-phasis is always on seasonal food and the finest fresh ingre-dients. There is a good range of fine wine to wash it all downwith, and while prices are high they reflect the amazingquality.QD-2, Maironio 28, tel. (+370) 686 388 81, www.uoksas.eu. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 15:00, Fri, Sat12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 30Lt. PJA

VALICK VALLEYValick Valley is a small, intimate place (there are just six tables)where the emphasis is on fine dining and all that goes with it:the best ingredients and the finest service. The menu is brief,and changes often, but always features seasonal food of thehighest order, often traditional with a twist. We ate a salmonand shrimp carpaccio which we followed up with an avoca-

do ice cream: we told you there was a twist! Not cheap, it isworth every penny. You will need a reservation most evenings.QA/B-3, V. Kuzmos 8, tel. (+370) 656 603 65. Open 12:00 -24:00 (May 1 - September 30). Open 12:00 - 22:00 (October1 - April 30). 35Lt.PTJAW

Laisvs Alja, photo by Vaida Kurseviit


Culture & Events Where to eat


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FRENCHLE ROUGEAnother welcome addition to the blossoming dining andnightlife scene currently evolving in Old Town, Le Rougesells itself as a brasserie and caf and sells itself very well.Popular with the local arty crowd and also attracting plentyof tourists when we visited, the impressive menu includesrabbit, scallops and frogs legs alongside a more conserva-tive but equally good selection of dishes. Theres a prettygood selection of wine as well. This particular stretch of road

just gets better and better.QB-3, Vilniaus 26, tel. (+370)606 627 36, www.lerouge.lt. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 25Lt.JABSW

FUNVIVA KAUNASWell worth the ten minute or so journey on the No. 30minibus from Kstuio, get off at Milikoniai and you will notbe able to miss this rather unique bar and cafe. A blue andglass, well, bubble it offers amazing views of Vilijampol.Serving coffee, wine and - at lunchtime - some simple foodwe like it, not least during summer when the terrace plat-form is open.QH-1, Tvri 23, tel. (+370) 656 393 09. Open11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 12Lt. ABS

includes a range of good, simple food from an upmarketburger to salmon and burritos. Service is friendly. Thename by the way refers to the Battle of algiris, fought in1410. Note that while 1410 is usually closed at weekends,it opens on weekend evenings when there are events atalgirio Arena.QD-4, Karaliaus Mindaugo 50 (algirioArena), tel. (+370) 611 220 33, www.1410.lt. Open 11:00- 22:00. Closed Sun (May 15 - September 30). Open11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun (Oc tober 1 - May 14). 18Lt.PTJA6ULEBSW

55The intriguing cellar restaurant of one of the best hotelsin Kaunas gets its name from the alcohol content of thecountrys traditional moonshine, saman(aka samagonas,or, in the Russian, samagon). Split into two parts, one rusticthe other a little more classy, learn about the making anddrinking of moonshine whilst consuming from a menuof well-prepared international dishes. Service is some ofthe best around, and the atmosphere can be fun.QD-2,Laisvs 79 (Kaunas hotel), tel. (+370) 37 75 08 70, www.kaunashotel.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:0 0, Sun12:00 - 23:00. 32Lt. PTJAULEBSW

ANTIS

The translation will be lost on most, antismeaning duck inLithuanian, something you need to do when descendingthe stairs to get inside this restaurant. A retro-chic ambi-ence of a kind peculiar to Kaunas awaits, whilst the menupanders to an international palate without too many ex-pectations. Notable features include an upright piano anda Rod Stewart CD. Top marks for a good value lunch andone of the best locations in the city.QA-3, Rotus 1, tel.(+370) 37 32 43 48. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -02:00. 24Lt. JABSW

CHEFS LOUNGEMuch-heralded restaurant in the National Theatre, asomewhat unconventional location made all the moreso by the long glass wall which separates the tables fromthe theatres hallway. Indeed, Chefs Loungeis a bit narrowto be honest, and we think you will be better off outsideand enjoy the view of Laisvs (when the weather allows ofcourse). The food is beautifully presented and tastes fabu-

GERMANBRAVARIAErsatz German dining complete with an in-house micro-brewery, this ones really for the locals, although you wontbe poisoned or depressed if you do choose to eat here.Avoid the dark beer, demand dressing on your salad, anddo take advantage of the grilled meats if you can.QE-4,Karaliaus Mindaugo 49 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 699 92462, www.bravaria.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat10:00 - 24:00. 10Lt. PJAUSW

GREEKRHODOSTo the best of our knowledge the third Greek restaurant toopen in Lithuania and the first in Kaunas, like its predeces-sors Rhodos isnt fooling anyone whos ever eaten decent

Greek food before. Although the menu tries to be Greekwith plenty of grilled peppers and garlic and even a fewGreek wines on the menu, the three lame attempts at mezereally dont appeal at all. The location suggests a businessmodel based on the old-fashioned tourist trap. Thankfullythere are plenty of other places to eat in the vicinity.QB-3,Vilniaus 38, tel. (+370) 699 491 05. Open 10:00 - 23:00,Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTJAUBSW

INDIANMOKSHABinish Kuruvilla hails from southern India and woundup in Kaunas via studying film and photography in Tal-linn before meeting a Lithuanian woman and starting afamily. His first attempt at a restaurant, which also servesa few other Asian and Pakistani dishes alongside the In-dian ones, isnt bad at all. Small and minimal, the serviceis friendly and the food is prepared from individually pre-pared spices which sets it apar t from the other attempts atthis type of cuisine in the city. The padadoms are nothingto write home about although the onion pakodawith a

minty sauce were knock-out. For a main dish we optedfor the lamb cooked in tomato and coconut sauce, whichonce wed finished fishing out the cloves and cinnamonwas very close to being one of the best things weve evereaten in Kaunas, which is a good job too considering theprice. Booking a table in advance is highly recommended.D-2, Vasario 16-osios 6, tel. (+370) 676 716 49, www.moksha.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun12:00 - 20:00. 26Lt. TJABSW

INTERNATIONAL1410Not easy to find (its on the far side of the algirio Arena) itis worth seeking out for the amazing views from the ter-race if for nothing else. Big, open, modern and industrialthere are two menus to choose from: the excellent valuedaily menu (which changes and often features food fromaround the world) and the more expensive a la cartewhich

lous, although on our last visit a couple of dishes were un-available (always a black mark in our book). We still say i tswell worth trying though, especially if you can bag a tableoutside.QD-2/3, Laisvs 71, tel. (+370) 616 225 60. Open11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.25Lt. PJABS

COMBOLocated on the Nemunas slightly out of the centre in Viljampol,the menu of excellent value and very good food features allyour favourite dishes from grilled meat to fish to pizza. The main

reason to make the trip however is for the location and theplace itself. Set inside a sor t of observation tower, the simple yetstylish-looking interior affords a magnificent view of the riverand the city through some exceedingly large windows.QG-3,Raudondvario 107, tel. (+370) 614 400 29, www.combo.lt.Open 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 15:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat18:00 - 03:00. 16Lt. PTAEBSW

GURMClose to the Kaunas City Museum and found down a smallflight of steps just off the road, Gurms definitely one of thefriendliest places in town at the moment. Part restaurant,part wine shop and part deli, dishes are chalked up on a hugeblackboard behind the bar. The aforementioned staff are alsorelatively rare in that they appear to know what theyre talkingabout and can consequently advise diners as well as suggestvariations on the standard meals available on the day. QA-2,M. Valaniaus 7/11, tel. (+370) 37 24 22 82. Open 10:00 -23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 40Lt. TJABSW

www.inyourpocket.com

BAKERIES

MOTIEJAUS KEPYKLLThis place still ranks among the best bakeries in town.Started by someone with a passion for real Italian bak-ing, theres a fine choice of bread and cakes generallymade with the finest ingredients although we have re-ceived slightly sub-standard food on occasion. Still,youll be hard pressed to find anything better in town. Agood option for visitors needing a quick snack when ex-ploring the immediate area.QB-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. (+370)616 155 99. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:0 0 - 18:00, Sun09:00 - 18:00. JBS


Where to eatWhere to eat


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IN TILSITNamed after the former Prussian town now known as Sovetskand part of Kaliningrad, In Tilsit features a beguiling menuof mostly edible dishes including Chinese food and pizza to

name but a couple. A minimalist, brown-beige affair with oldphotographs of Tilsit on the walls, the location close to thebus station may not be the most exclusive address in town,but once youre inside youll hardly notice. Other points of in-terest include live music and DJs some weekends (for whichyou need to pay for) and the possibility to organise childrensbirthday parties. If you like basketball they also screen the biggames in here.QF-4, Vytauto 32, tel. (+370) 37 21 04 05.Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun12:00 - 21:00. 22Lt. PTABSW

MIESTO SODASAn old Kaunas favourite, not least during the summerwhen they open a large terrace overlooking the park andKaunas State Musical Theatre next door. The internationalmenu of good value meals includes knockout steaks, fish,pasta and a few Lithuanian dishes, all of it accompanied byan equally impressive selection of desserts and drinks. Thewonderful orange grand piano in the corner gets playedfrom time to time by a serious-looking man with a pen-chant for 1970s kitsch.QD-2, Laisvs 93, tel. (+370) 3742 44 24, www.miestosodas.lt. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,Sat 10:00 - 01:00 (May 1 - September 30). Open 11:00 -23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00 (October 1 - April 30).16Lt. PJAUEBSW

PAS STANLEYThe owners of this intriguing, off beat venue have obvi-ously travelled in their time, bringing back with them aflair for doing something both different and welcome.The food is ambitious if nothing too special, but its a greatplace to visit and use as either a caf or somewhere to getsomething more substantial to eat all the same. One ofthe better ambiences in town, the addition of blankets onthe chairs outside is a nice touch indeed.QB-3, Vilniaus24, tel. (+370) 650 365 06, www.pas-stanley.com. Open10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.14Lt. PTJABSW

PERKNO NAMAITheres evidence of a new lease of life at Perkno Namai, andnot a moment too soon. Finally ditching their kudos basedon an award won in the distant past, this hotel restaurant

slightly out of the centre has at long last caught up with thepresent. The menu of good international food with a fewinteresting twists changes twice a year, plus theres a regularweekly get-together for local foodies and wine-lovers onFriday evenings. Best of all perhaps is the garden setting. Ifyou can drag yourself up the hill (when youre in the areato visit Sugihara House for example) and the weathers fine,this really is worth checking out.QK-4, Perkno 61, tel.(+370) 37 32 02 30, www.perkuno-namai.lt. Open 12:00 -23:00. 32Lt. PTALBSW

SENIEJI RSIAIHoused inside several gorgeous brick vaults inside a clas-sic, 17th-century Old Town building, Senieji Rsiai (OldCellars) is a much needed breath of fresh air in a city ofso much low budget banality. Well mannered staff ferrysalmon in brandy, pepper steak, duck, rabbit and otherfancy dishes with the utmost decorum to an altogetherbetter class of locals and foreigners alike, the perfect an-tidote to a day spent running the gauntlet of the citysbeleaguered museum staff. Their excellent choice of des-serts are best finished off with a spine-tingling espressoand an expensive cigar from the in-house humidor.QB-3,Vilniaus 34, tel. (+370) 601 025 25, www.seniejirusiai.lt.Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 39Lt. PTJABSW

SODELIS 1934Simply put, this is one of the best restaurants in Kaunas.Serving what is unquestionably the tastiest burger in theland, Sodelis in general offers simple, Modern Europeanfood cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. Ev-erything is made fresh by the amazing chef using only thefinest ingredients. Discreet and easy to miss, make sureyou dont forego a dessert: they are as impressive as ev-erything else. Lovely garden too.QD-2, K. Donelaiio 66,tel. (+370) 673 767 62. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat11:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PTJABSW

ITALIANBUON GIORNOFeaturing two addresses in town, this one a taverna andthe other a trattoria, both are definitely worth a visit al-though in our opinion the former stands heads and shoul-ders above the latter. Stood on a corner and marking thestart of a 200m stretch of knockout Old Town bars andrestaurants, Buon Giorno functions equally well as a baror restaurant. Refreshingly understated when it comes towhat it looks like inside, it provides a genuinely and un-usually good atmosphere. The foods good too, includingsome of the best business lunches in town.QB-3, Vilniaus34/11, tel. (+370) 620 637 77. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri,Sat 09:00 - 24:00. 17Lt. Also at S. Daukanto 14.PTJABSW

PAS PAOLONot to be confused with the restaurant of the same name(and same owner) on the other side of the street, thismore established eatery can be found through a gap inthe buildings and down a small alleyway. A little on thegloomy side and laid out with lots of booth seating, theItalian food on offer receives plenty of praise from thosewhove eaten here.QD-3, S. Daukanto 17, tel. (+370) 3722 01 75. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00- 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00 (June 1 - September 30). Open10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun11:00 - 22:00 (October 1 - May 30). 14Lt. Also at Balt 16.PTJAVBSW

PICCOLA ITALIAA combined pizzeria and trattoria of the finest order, Pic-cola Italia does what every Italian restaurant should do b utthat almost none even bother to attempt. Using the finestauthentic Italian flour and mozzarella cheese, the pizzastaste truly superb, whilst the pasta is made in-house andis light years ahead of just about everything else in town.Theres plenty on offer for vegetarians as well, plus a well-sourced selection of Italian wines. Even if youre not feelinghungry its worth a trip for their excellent focaccia and anespresso. Any more of this and Kaunas will be vying forcapital city status again. Recommended.QD-3, Maironio22, tel. (+370) 685 612 12, www.piccolaitalia.lt. Open11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.15Lt. PTJASW

JAPANESEYAKATAKaunas first Japanese restaurant, Yakatas interior has beendesigned to resemble a typical Japanese trading ship. Theadmirable menu ventures far beyond the usual sushi, of-fering a wide range of classic dishes using a lot of freshingredients. Perhaps not quite up to the standard of similarrestaurants found in other parts of the world, eating herein ones and twos isnt recommended, but for a group ofpeople looking for something a little different the placeis most certainly recommended.QA-2, M. Valaniaus 14,tel. (+370) 614 654 53. Open 11:00 - 22:0 0, Fri, Sat 11:00 -23:00. 18Lt. PTJAVBSW

lithuania.inyourpocket.com


10/27



KIDSASILIUKO SAPNAS

The Littl e Donkey s Dream is a resta urant desig nedespecially for children. Although the furniture is fullsize, everything else has the air of a classroom aboutit, with lots of bright colours , pictures on the walls andcoin-operated machines in the corner delivering toysand sweets. Despite the infant theme, its also popularwith grown-ups. The menu, which features meals for

people of all ages, is p redominantly but not exclusivelyLithuanian. A charming and amusing diversion indeed.QD-2, Laisvs 87a, tel. (+370) 684 033 39. Open10:00 - 18:00. 9Lt. TJBSW

LITHUANIANThere are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant inLithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pig-tailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of pota-toes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent ofan old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and isperhaps best described as a restaurant or caf serving pre-dominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in anatmosphere you wont find anywhere other than in Lithu-ania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good res-taurant owners of Kaunas and call the former of the twoFolk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restauranttogether.

FORTO DVARASNow in a better than ever location right on Town Hallsquare, the Kaunas branch of the ever-popular FortoDvaras chain remains a solidly good choice when youwant to go Lithuanian. In a rather stylish setting (featuringa lovely red brick cellar) Forto Dvaras is a hugely popularwith the locals and you will easily see why should youchoose to eat here: the menu runs the full gamut of tra-ditional Lithuanian food and everything is cooked to per-fection. Add in good friendly service, great local beer andthe fact that it all costs a fraction of certain other placeswe could mention and you have a venue which is wellworth your time.QA-3, Rotus 4, tel. (+370) 655 60234, www.fortodvaras.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri,Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 17Lt. Also at K. Barausko 66a (Molas).PTJA6BSW

LEONIJOS

Accordion music, plain wooden seating, a leisurely rusticfeel and some of the cheapest and best Lithuanian food intown. Located down a flight of stairs opposite the PovilasStulga Folk Music & Instruments Museum (see Sightsee-ing), avoid the lunchtime crowd if youre in a hurry andfeast on gut-busting local delicacies. Interestingly theydo a takeaway service here, although you have to bringyour own container to put the food in.QB-3, Kurpi 11,tel. (+370) 37 20 38 75. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.8Lt.JS

MEDIOTOJ UEIGAA slightly stripped back menu from previous years greetsdiners inside what still remains a worthwhile restaurant.Although their speciality dishes featuring meat not oftenseen on a menu has shrunk, theres still plenty to keepone intrigued. Decorated in the style of a medieval manorhouse, Mediotoj Ueiga remains a favourite among lo-cals and visitors alike. The onset of winter brings a roaringlog fire into play, making this Town Hall Square-locatedgem of a restaurant a particularly excellent choice whenthe air temperature is especially punishing.QA-3, Rotus10, tel. (+370) 37 32 09 56, www.medziotojai.lt. Open11:00 - 24:00. 32Lt. PJAIBS

ALIAS RATASUnder both new management and recently replaced shin-gle roof, the Green Wheel features a slightly more upmar-ket menu than before but remains more or less true to the

cause and continues to cook and serve quality local foodfor a decent price, including some fine steaks grilled onhot coals in front of the diner. If you want to experience thelocal nosh this is one of the top spots in town to visit, plusthe interior is well worth a look at b eing just the right sideof folky without resorting to kitsch. Find it tucked awayin a backstreet between the Park Inn hotel and Laisvs,the citys long pedestrian street.QE-2, Laisvs 36b, tel.(+370) 37 20 00 50, www.zalias-ratas.lt. Open 11:00 -24:00. 17Lt. PTJAVEBSW

BAJORKIEMIS CITYPart of a small and extremely ambitious chain of restau-rants, Bajorkiemis City close to the remaining part of oldcity wall is a relatively posh affair albeit with a relaxed doorpolicy and good prices that serves a range of upmarket-style international dishes and Lithuanian favourites. A ver yfamily orientated establishment, special events are or-ganised for children every Sunday afternoon. The restau-rant also features an adjoining wine bar.QD-3, Kstuio86/18, tel. (+370) 614 011 11, www.bajorukiemas.lt. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00- 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 15Lt.PJAUBSW

BERNELI UEIGALithuanian white tablecloth dining featuring waiters dressedas rustic penguins and a menu of eye-catching fare. ArguablyKaunas most famous if not beloved traditional restaurant,despite its undisputed pedigree the prices are still more thanaffordable. Plough through the menu at your peril and makesure youve got at least one spare hole in your belt before youstart. Fine for any kind of event, from a solitary, pick-me-uppotatofest over a good book to a romantic dinner for two toa fun night out with a group. Highly recommended diningfor all.QA-2, M. Valaniaus 9, tel. (+370) 37 20 09 13, www.berneliuuzeiga.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 10Lt. Also at K. Donelaiio 11, Balt 81.PTJAIVEBSW


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22 KaunasIn Your Pocket kaunas.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

SUSHIOTI OTI SUSHIServing average sushi prepared by a young lass whenwe dropped by whos probably never been further eastthan Ukmerg, Oti Oti Sushi can be found hidden away atthe back of the M. K. iurlionis State Art Museum. In thesame building as a busy night club and sharing the sameentrance, its a bit of a mystery as to why they choose to

close so early.QD-2, V. Putvinskio 50, tel. (+370) 601 77667. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -22:00. 14Lt. PTJAUSW

SUSHI EXPRESSKaunas first and arguably best suhsi outlet provides anexcellent choice of sushi plus a vegetarian option, Japa-nese beer and what appears to be their own caf, CafExpress, next door. Whilst their original restaurant had theproportions of a small holiday caravan, in here you can sitdown properly without poking your neighbours eye outwith a chopstick.QA-3, Rotus 6, tel. (+370) 656 501 88,www.sushiexpress.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -24:00. 10Lt. Also at Laisvs 12a. JABSW

SUSHI SUSHISmall and remarkably Japanese, the food is great and sois everything else. Yet another feather in the cap for thecountrys second city.QB-3, Vilniaus 36, tel. (+370) 600

004 10, www.sushisushi.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat10:00 - 24:00. 12Lt. Also at Vilniaus 4. JAVBSW

VEGETARIANRADHARANWhilst being utterly commendable for offering food fromnon-GM sources and attempting to provide somethingLithuania badly needs, it does still require great skill andknowledge to turn ghee, spices and fresh vegetables intotruly memorable food. For all of their niceties, bright or-ange dcor and Oriental aspirations, the food here simplydoesnt do the place justice. As for the pastry they use tomake the samosas, theyve simply got it wrong.QE-2/3,Laisvs 40, tel. (+370) 37 36 29 41, www.radharane.lt.Open 11:00 - 21:00. 12Lt. Also at Daukos 28. PTJABSW

SAMOSACalled samosa probably because its just about the onlything they serve, its difficult to say whether this strangeaddition to Kaunas dining scene is either the zealouswork of a bunch of diluded hippies or something genu-inely worth supporting. Featuring no set prices but rathera minimum donation instead (which is in effect a price),what bugs us most is the ne ed to conform to the tired ste-reotype of painted furniture, incense and dippy staff whoact like they recently swallowed a few grammes of blackhash. To find the place, look for the only tree in Kaunaswearing a jumper, head down the concrete steps andaway you go. The samosas in question arent very goodby the way. You decide.QC-2, E. Oekiens 5, tel. (+370)687 437 88, www.samosa.lt. Open 12:00 - 17:30. ClosedSat, Sun. 6Lt. JS

Not surprisingly for a city with several large universities,Kaunas features a number of bars in which to sit on brokenfurniture and drink copious amounts of cheap beer amidstthe next generation of top Lithuanian lawyers, doctors andother future professionals. Cocktail and wine bars are onthe increase, although neither category reaches the dizzyheights of sophistication as witnessed in similar bars in thecapital. Nightclubs remain in general either rather dull orreminiscent of a family wedding complete with paralyticteenagers and middle-aged ladies out for a good time. Oneor two exceptions exist, but in the main Kaunas is by nostretch of the imagination a centre of contemporary club-bing culture. Meanwhile, Blackberry-wielding businessmenwith a taste for something saucy will be delighted to readthat the citys womenfolk are veritable eye-candy, several ofthem employed in the timeless pursuit of removing their un-dergarments whilst spinning round a chrome-plated pole. Inshort, dont come to Kaunas exclusively for the nightlife, but

do rest assured that you wont have to spend your eveningslocked in your hotel room with only a minibar for company.

BARSBO BAR / BLUEORANGESupposedly taking its name from the poem The World Is Blue As

An Orangeby the French Surrealist poet Paul luard, this placehas been around forever and long may it continue to be open.Your classic art student pub complete with broken furniture,everything about the place is alternative in the best sense ofthe word. The music is challenging, the beer is stupidly cheapand features a wide range of excellent ales from small brewer-ies alongside the usual giants. They even make a decent rangeof food. If you need somewhere different to sit quietly and reada book (or take advantage of the free internet), come in thedaytime. If you want to be squashed and make new friends,dont miss Friday or Saturday nights.QB-3, Muitins 9, tel.(+370) 37 20 65 42, www.blueorange.lt. Open 17:00 - 02:00,Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. PJAESW

GALERIA URBANA

In the heart of the Old Town Galeria Urbanais a contempo-rary bistro offering a nice, informal interior (which boasts agreat bar) as well as a big terrace outside on the street whenthe weather permits. There is more than a hint of an architec-tural theme to the place, from the design of the menus to thenames of the dishes. Everything is well worth trying, not leastthe White Architectress (chicken stuffed with feta and sun-dried tomatoes). Works well as a boozer too if you just fancy adrink.QB-3, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 620 964 64. Open 12:00- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PJA6EBW

GINGER BARPure 21-century business-class drinking is to be had inside thisswanky hotel bar just around the corner from the citys mainpedestrian street. Good-looking furniture and good-lookingstaff set the tone for a place that due to its accommodationcredentials can be either fairly lively with high flyers doing im-portant deals whilst getting drunk or as dead as a doornail. Anexcellent location for a quiet drink with a fellow suit. If you do

choose to wet your whistle here, recommended is the localKauno, bottled light beer with a distinctively different flavour.QE-2, K. Donelaiio 27 (Park Inn by Radisson Kaunas), tel.(+370) 37 30 61 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -24:00. PJAUBW

KANKLSA small-scale art incubator for local young creatives, Kanklsalso doubles as the only bar on the street to feature second-hand furniture and the whiff of burning foliage more com-monly associated with Jamaica. Have a look at what they getup to on Facebook and if youre in town during the summerdont miss their bizarre Sofa Evenings (Sof Vakarai). Othergood news is that the beers cheap and theyve got tablefootball. E-3, Laisvs 36, tel. (+370) 600 298 68. Open 11:00- 08:00 (June 1 - September 15). Open 18:00 - 06:00 (Sep-tember 16 - May 31). PJAEBW

REPUBLICDesigned to resemble a classic British pub and lookingevery inch like your local Wetherspoons, this place servesmore than a few interesting beers and is a good choicefor larger groups. The even better news is that the foodis not only excellent value for money but pretty authen-tic at times too. Our last outing tested the merits of theirfish and chips (surprisingly good), a cold cucumber soup(altibariai without the beetroot) and vegetarian bur-ritos which were stuffed with a very tasty filling.QE-2/3,Laisvs 57, tel. (+370) 614 434 44. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PJABSW

REPUBLIC NO. 2The second Republicto open in Kaunas is a big new pubserving much the same range of good beers and surpris-ingly excellent food as its older sibling. With plenty of TVscreens both inside and out its a p opular choice for watch-ing live sport, while the terrace out on the street is goodfor watching live people go by: this is a busy stretch ofstreet and a great location.QB-3, Vilniaus 13, tel. (+370)612 131 11. Open 11:00 - 24:00. PJABW

SKLIAUTASA wonderful setting in an Old Town courtyard, this is theplace to come and recreate the past splendour of Kaunasgolden age during the 1920s and 1930s. Decorated inthe classic inter-war Kaunas style, evenings here amongsome of the citys more arty types can be fun and havebeen known to feature everything from live (and lively)televised major sporting events to evenings of film appre-ciation. They also whip up a few handsome meals in thekitchen and act as a quiet and recommended caf duringthe day.QA-3, Rotus 26a, tel. (+370) 37 20 68 43, www.skliautas.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PJABW

W 1640In a slightly obscure location just on the edge of Old Town,this truly fantastic little bar betrays a gorgeous arched brickinterior in which to delight in or simply get rat-arsed on aOld Town, photo by Vaida Kurseviit

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staggering 150 whiskeys and whiskys from over 60 distill-eries around the world. Among a list of mostly Scotch va-rieties are a few surprises including a much talked-aboutwhiskey from Japan and even offerings from Wales andSweden. The place gets its name from the year in which itwas first mentioned in written sources, a historical fact thatshonoured here by a number of tasting and historical eventssurrounding the drink. As well as the famous spirit theresalso a small offering of wonderful, rare beers and ales as wellas an equally small range of snacks. Recommended.QB-3,Kurpi 29, tel. (+370) 657 534 40. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri,Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAW

MICROBREWERIESAVILYSAlthough many consider this recommended place to drinkbeer in a res taurant, once again the meal we ate here was

anything but great. Essentially a microbrewery on twofloors of which the cellar is by far the better of the twospaces, Avilys makes two different beers, the light Avilioand the fabulous Medausflavoured with honey, both ofwhich are well worth sampling. Visitors who find them-selves in need of food should steer well clear of anythingambitious-sounding on the menu and stick to the beersnacks. If they splashed out and got somebody who knewwhat they were doing working in the kitchen this placewould be truly spectacular. As it is, its little more than abar with waiters.QB-3, Vilniaus 34, tel. (+370) 699 66239, www.avilys.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -02:00. PJAEBSW

GYVASA super little addition to Old Town and Kaunas in general,at the time of writing Gyvas offered 33 different unpas-teurised Lithuanian beers from microbreweries aroundthe country. Intimate and friendly, finding a seat can bedifficult during the weekend, which can be a real problemif youre drinking some of the stronger beers on offer. Aswell as the opportunity to get smashed on original ale,

theres also chess sets available for those who can handletheir drink and sports on the television for those who cant.Find the entrance just around the corner from Rotus.QA-3, Muitins 1/6a, tel. (+370) 603 118 11. Open 12:00- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. JBSW

GASTROPUB837The first proper gastropub to open in Kaunas (indeed,in the whole of Lithuania as far as we can tell) is exactlywhat it should be, serving a fine choice of food and drink.Modern and contemporary the design of the place is cut-ting edge, and we like the long bar. Food wise expectsuperb, simple, tasty treats cooked to order: they do agreat gourmet burger. There is a top s election of wine andprices are not as high as you might think.QA-3, Rotus20, tel. (+370) 699 544 09. Open 16:00 - 02:00. 22Lt.JABW

WINEG. VINE Look, its not cheap - we should say that fromthe beginning - but on a recent trip to Kaunas it was ourfavourite location of all those we visited. A wine bar (andshop) which serves some good, simple food as opposedto a full-scale bistro, it is worth mentioning that the foodit does serve is amazing. The buffalo mozzarella salad weate (complete with cedar nuts and freshly made pesto) wasfabulous, while there was also fresh foie gras and salmontartar to pick from. With fresh pink roses everywhere (evenin the loos) and great waitresses, it is no wonder that gettinga table is tough: make sure you reserve in advance.QA-2, M.Valaniaus 27, tel. (+370) 682 662 66, www.gvine.lt. Open16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00- 21:00. Closed Mon. 40Lt. PJA6UEBW

PIANO PIANOThis is one of Kaunas more popular wine-drinking venues

thanks at least in part to its super setting. Sophisticatedwithout being too snobby, the emphasis is entirely Italianhere, with all the wine coming from there as well as themenu, which is at least inspired by Italian dishes. In keep-ing with the current obsession with being like everybodyelse, DJs are known to help move things along.QA-3,Rotus 4, tel. (+370) 662 424 53. Open 12:00 - 24:00.JAEBW

SENAMIESIO VYNINWith the current trend among clueless and opportunis-tic Lithuanian bar owners to reclassify their businesses aswine bars, its a comforting thought to learn that this placehas been a wine bar for years. More than firmly establishedand consistently good, this welcoming establishmentserves over 70 wines from around the world and also fea-tures a small menu of bar snacks and a few more ambitiousdishes to help the plonk go down. Theres live music onFriday evenings too. An excellent choice for a decent drink

in an idiot-free environment.QB-2/3, M. Daukos 23, tel.(+370) 37 22 76 56. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00,Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PJABSW

COCKTAILSBARBARA

This basement-located cocktail sensation is found packedmost nights with good-looking things getting zonked oncocktails to the sounds of a range of quality DJs from homeand abroad as well as the occasional live band. The cock-tail list is impressive and wont break the bank. Find theentrance slightly hidden down a small flight of steps at thefar end of the row of buildings nex t to the underpass.QB-3, Vilniaus 56, tel. (+370) 612 225 22. Open 23:00 - 05:00,Wed 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Entrance free- 20Lt. PJAE

DJANGOCurrently one of the most talked about cocktail bars inKaunas, located bang on Town Hall square. There is a goodlong bar staffed by efficient lads who make sure you donot wait all night for a drink, while outside is a small yetrather cool courtyard which becomes the central attrac-tion during the summer months. Popular with locals andvisitors its a rare hip venue which also manages to befriendly.QA-3, Rotus 29, tel. (+370) 604 109 94. Open18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAB

LA FINA surprisingly desolate selection of booze is on displayconsidering La Fin promotes itself as a cocktail and whis-key bar, but at least the staff are cheerful. The summer-time terrace has the added attraction of outdoor heaters,although were not quite sure how long theyll be able tokeep it up knowing the Lithuanian winters. We haventtried the food, but the stuff we saw lying around on otherpeoples plates looked pretty decent. Maybe their claimsof having a gourmet chef are for real. Note that while theywill stay open until 03:00 as long as they have customers,

if things are quiet they will close earlier, at 23:00.QD-2,Laisvs 72, tel. (+370) 618 448 88. Open 11:00 - 03:00,Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. PJAUBW

CLUBSMACAO OPEN AIRA club for good-looking people with bags of money andmore than a passing penchant for Fashion TV, this is thequintessential Eastern European bling experience. Withroom for up to 850 people, the theme is loosely basedaround the exclusive side of Ibiza with a twist of woman-worshipping. Dont even entertain the idea of coming hereunless you look like youve just stepped out of the pages ofVogue.QD-2, Putvinskio 51, tel. (+370) 608 074 00, w ww.macao.lt. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,Wed, Thu, Sun (May 1 - September 30). Open Fri, Sat22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun (October1 - April 30). Entrance 10 - 20Lt. PJABW

MOJO LOUNGEA cocktail bar-night club hybrid reached via a brief ridein a tiny lift, Mojo Lounge remains fairly empty for theearly part of the evening before filling to overflowing afterpeople start getting kicked out of the citys bars. Refresh-ingly friendly, the interior designers opted for the classicnouveau-disco look complete with smoke machine, mir-ror ball, glowing bar and television screens fitted into thewalls and have, if this is your cup of tea, succeeded magnif-icently. The legendary terrace doesnt boast the best viewin town it has to be said, but is a great place for a quietearly drink or a more frenetic experience in the middle ofthe night.QD-2, V. Putvinskio 50, tel. (+370) 699 115 00,www.mojolounge.lt. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. ClosedMon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun (May 1 - August 31). Open Fri,Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun (Sep-tember 1 - April 30). Entrance 10Lt. PAEB

UNDERGROUND PUBThis little cellar-located place in a courtyard off the mainstreet is now in at least its third incarnation in as manyyears, changing its formula slightly but remaining moreor less as it always was. More of a pub than a club (theclues in the name), they do put on live music here of asort-of rockish genre, but most of the time it func tions as aplace for lovers of rock music to hang out and get drunk oncheap beer. If youve been to Pogo in Vilnius you more orless know what to expect already, although Pogo remainsthe champion of the two.QE-3, Laisvs 51a, tel. (+370)646 232 28. Open 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Entrancefree or 10Lt. PJEW

LIVE MUSICDEMPUBOne of those places with a swanky lift entrance facilitatingthe possibility of accidentally ending up in a strip club oran empty office, if you push the right button youll findDempub. A surprisingly normal bar with a tastefully basicinterior, live bands provide the evening entertainment via

a decent sound system, but the killer feature is a full lengthwindow offering a panoramic view of the city. Worth a tryunless youve got a problem with the colour orange.QD-2, Laisvs 59, tel. (+370) 657 450 03, www.dzempub.lt.Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,Sun. Entrance free - 15Lt. JAEBW

SUMMER BAR

RYI KIEMELIS 837Now in its third year and r iding on the coat-tails of thesuccess of similar places in Vilnius, the general ideabehind Ryi Kiemelis 837 (i.e. a summer-only outdoorbar with lots of entertainment from Monday night jaz zto DJs to rock concerts) is a good one, and all acts ofbravery such as opening a place like this in Kaunasshould be applauded. Although it could be better andnot forgetting there are other e xcellent places nearby,if you hit this place on the right evening then youllbe in for a treat. They also organise a flea market eachSaturday. Find it in the courtyard of the Communica-tions History Museum immediately behind the OldTown Hall.QRotus 20, tel. (+370) 699 544 09. Open16:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. Open May 9 -September 15. JAEBKXSW

The Wise Old Man. Graffiti by . Amelynas and T. imkus on a build-ing at Jonavos 3


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ESSENTIAL KAUNASCHRISTS RESURRECTION CHURCH KRISTAUSPRISIKLIMO BANYIA This extraordinary whitechurch towering over the city came ab out through an ideafor a house of worship in praise of Lithuanian indepen-dence in 1922. Work began over a decade later to a designby the Latvian architect Krlis Reisons (1894-1981) whoalso designed the citys Vytautas the Great Military Mu-seum among other notable Kaunas buildings, althoughit wasnt finished and consecrated until 2004. The maintower reaches 70m into the heavens and the plain albeitstrangely moving interior has enough room for 3,0 00 wor-shippers. Used as a warehouse by the Nazis and a radiofactory by the Soviets, the building was eventually handedback to the Catholic Church around the time of the coun-trys second independence in 1990 when work once againstarted on its completion. Outside and to the left are six

graves, of which four are, somewhat bizarrely, empty. Theother two hold the remains of Vytautas Kazlauskas (1919-2008), a Lithuanian priest who spent years working in theVatican and Mykolas Krupaviius (1885-1970), another localgentleman of the cloth notable for his nationalist tenden-cies.QE-1, emaii 31b, tel. (+370) 37 22 92 22, www.prisikelimas.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:30. Mass 18:00, Sun09:30, 11:00, 12:30, 18:00. J

M. K. IURLIONIS STATE ART MUSEUM M. K.IURLIONIO VALSTYBINIS DAILS MUZIEJUSPainter, composer, mystic and depressive are some of thewords that have been used to describe the nations favou-rite artist. During his short lifetime, the Polish-speakingiurlionis (1875-1911) penned the first Lithuanian sympho-ny, Mike(In The Forest, 1901), painted prolifically, dabbledin photography and even found time to get married, havea daughter and learn Lithuanian. The museum featuresmany of his original paintings and offers the chance to sitin a small lecture theatre and listen to his music. Variousposters, postcards and CDs of his work are on sale herefor reasonable prices. The museum also houses a small

exhibition of work by some of his contemporaries, includ-ing a series of bizarre sculptures made from tree bark andsewn together by Elbieta Daugvilien (1886-1959). Notethat at the time of going to press in the spring of 2014 re-construction work means that the main entrance is closed.Temporary access can be found to the right of the build-ing. Look for the sign that says jimas muziej.QD-2, V.Putvinskio 55, tel. (+370) 37 22 94 75, www.ciurlionis.lt. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.Admission 6/3Lt. J

KAUNAS CASTLE. KAUNAS CITY MUSEUM DEPARTMENT KAUNO PILIS The cit ys spl endid 13thcentury castle, probably built by Kstutis to defend theroad to Trakai, was the countrys first defensive bastionand the only double-walled castle in Lithuania. The sur-rounding walls were initially over two metres wide and13m high. Unlike most other castles of the time this onewas made of stone, not wood. However, in 1362, after

a siege, the Teutonic Knights managed to destroy it, al-though local legend has it that the castle was not de-stroyed and that 36 survivors remained. These survivorsalong with the Knights are allegedly still burning in aneternal fire which can only be extinguished by an inno-cent person entering the castle via a secret cave. How-ever, history books dictate that it was destroyed and itsreplacement, some of which can be viewed at the site to-day, was built by 1368. The castle has been modernisedwith sleek glass windows enclosing the top, and recentlyreceived a further 1.16Lt million facelift, which includedthe restoration of several architectural elements as wellas the construction of a traditional wooden bridge overthe former moat. Visitors will find a number of fasci-nating exhibitions, including a full history of the castlespread over five spaces within the tower. The dungeonsare also worth a visit: slip on a pair of heavy iron chainsand find out for yourself what life was like for a 16th cen-

tury villain. The castle also plays host to regular tempo-rary exhibitions and events.QA-2, Papilio, tel. (+370) 3730 06 72, www.kaunomuziejus.lt. Open: 10:00 - 18:00,Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun (September 1 - May31). Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon(June 1 - August 31). Admission 8/4Lt. J

MYKOLAS ILINSKAS ART MUSEUM MYKOLOILINSKO DAILS MUZIEJUS The former privatecollection of the Lithuanian art collector M ykolas ilinskas(1904-1992) is now in the hands of the M. K. iurlionis StateArt Museum, who exhibit it and other works inside this un-likely-looking building. On three floors, the museum fea-tures both applied and pure art from Europe and Asia fromthe 17th to the 20th century including some fine Flemishtapestries, Japanese porcelain and a Rubens that mightnot be a Rubens. Among the many spl endid works of noteare a knockout decorative plate from 1926, Baltars (TheWedding) by the Latvian artist Romans Suta (1896-1944)and Leonardo Coccorantes (1680-1750) moody paintingOn the Coast of the Stormy Sea.QE-3, Nepriklausomybs12, tel. (+370) 37 22 28 53. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00

- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. From April 1 - Au-gust 31 admission 12/6Lt. J

OLD TOWN SENAMIESTISCovering a total of 106 hectares, and dominated by amajestic, often crumbling mix of Gothic and Renaissance-styles with a cluster of 16th-century merchant housesaround the Town Hall, Old Town is not to be missed. Themain street, Vilniaus, was in its day b ack in the 13th centurya highway linking the city with Vilnius.J

OLD TOWN HALL & TOWN HALL SQUARE MIESTO ROTU IR AIKT Begun in 1542 and predomi-nantly late-Baroque in style with elements of early Clas-sicism and Gothic architecture, the swan-like Old (asin former) Town Hall has been used as an ammunitiondump, a prison, a palace, a Russian theatre, a church anda club of ill repute over the centuries and is today usedas a wedding palace as well as a place to host formal oc-

casions and as the home of the citys Ceramics Museum.The telescopic-looking tower is 53 metres high, thrustingabove the marvellous open square in which it takes prideof place. Originally it housed a few shops on the groundfloor, while municipal functions took place on the floorabove and prisoners were locked up in the basement. Theplace was given a makeover in 1780 under the direc tion ofthe architect Jan Mattekier. Among other things, statuesof Lithuanias Grand Dukes were added but they vanishedbefore the place was turne d into a church in 1824. In 1837the Russians decided to change the building into a roadhouse for the tsar, then from 1869 until WWII it was againused as municipal offices. In 1969 the building got anotherfacelift courtesy of the architect ibartas Simanaviius, andin 1973 it was returned to the municipality. Now its mainfunction is as a wedding hall. Showing up on a Saturdayto see the parade of brides, balloons and fancy cars is wellworth the trip. The square in which its located was origi-

nally the centre of economic life in the cit y. The foundationstone was laid on July 28, 1542, and the square now servesas a popular meeting and greeting place during the hotsummer months, featuring a clutch of excellent bars safelydeposited under canvas just in case, all of them operatedby the restaurants already established around the edge ofthe square. During the winter an outdoor ice-skating rinkis built in front of the Old Town Hall, complete with stallsselling hot food and drink.QA-3. J

STS. PETER & PAULS CATHEDRALBASILICAVENT APATAL PETRO IR POVILO ARKIKATEDRA BAZILIKA Dating back as far as 1408 andreceiving basilica status in 1921, Sts. Peter & Pauls is thelargest Gothic structure in Lithuania as well as the coun-trys only Gothic church with a basilica floor-plan as op-posed to the usual cross-shaped design. The breathtakinginterior, which stands among one of the most b eautiful ofits kind in the country, boasts nine separate altars with thehigh-Baroque main altar being the central focus. The Ca-thedral is also the final resting place of two politically ac-tive, religious writers. Along the south wall find the tomb

of Maironis (1862-1932), a priest and poet who some con-sider one of the founding fathers of modern Lithuanianpoetry. Also within the crypt are the remains of Bishop Mo-tiejus Valanius (1801-1875), best known for his contribu-tions to the then illegal printing and distribution of booksin Lithuanian. The light Renaissance and Baroque touchesare the result of renovations from the middle of the 17thcentury. Entrance is, somewhat strangely, through slidingglass doors on the Vilniaus side of the building.QA/B-3,Vilniaus 1, tel. (+370) 37 32 40 93. Open 07:00 - 18:30.Mass 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30,12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J

VYTAUTAS THE GREAT CHURCH OF THE ACCESSION OF THE HOLY VIRGIN MARY V.MERGELS MARIJOS MIMO DANG VYTAUTO DIDIOJO BANYIA Like most churches in thecountry, this house of worship is a condensed history les-son. The Gothic structure was built by Franciscan monks at

the beginning of the 15th century with the tower added alittle later. Invaders took advantage of its central location,first by the Napoleonic army who stored ammunition in itbefore setting fire to it during their frantic flee during thewinter of 1812, and then by the Russians who used it asan Orthodox church between 1845 and 1853. The church,whose interior features a beguiling mix of Gothic archesand even an electronic organ, was returned to the Catho-lic Church in 1990. The famous Lithuanian political activistand writer Juozas Tumas-Vaigantas (1869-1933) is buriedhere. Note the water level gauge by the side entrance,which records a Nemunas water level of 2.9m on March24, 1946.QA-3, Aleksoto 3, tel. (+370) 37 20 38 54. Open14:00 - 19:00. Mass 18:00, Sat, 10:00, 18:00, Sun 10:00,12:00, 18:00 (18:00 except July, August).

MUSEUMS & GALLERIESAB UNDERGROUND PRINTING HOUSEFounded and run by Vytautas Andziulis (b. 1930) and JuozasBaceviius (1918-1995), the AB Underground Printing House(the title comes from the first letters of Vytautas and Juozasfamily names) operated at great risk during the last decadeof the Soviet occupation of Lithuania three metres underthe ground in Andziulis garden on the outskirts of Kaunas.Dug by hand between 1978 and 1980 and reinforced withsturdy concrete walls, during its lifespan the printing housepublished 23 titles dealing with subjects ranging from Lith-uanian history to religion and poetry, all on a hand-crankedmachine built from miscellaneous spare parts gathered byAndziulis who was at the time a professional printer. Nowpart of the Vytautas the Great Military Museum, the print-ing house has been preserved and can be visited by priorarrangement. Set in the small village of Saliai some 10kmnorth of the city centre, visitors can view the old printinghouse, which was and that remains hidden under a green-house as well as a museum dedicated to the place and toresistance printing in general. Easiest reached by car orpossibly bicycle, the museum is more or less off the pub-lic transport route entirely. The N21 city bus to the Mega

shopping centre is the best option. Running from the KaunoPilis stop close to Old Town to the Mega shopping centre,get off at the iaurinio Aplinkkelio Tiltas stop and keepwalking out of the city with the river on your right until youreach the outskirts of Saliai. A signpost marked PogrindioSpaustuv Muziejus takes you off the main road. At the forka little further on, keep to the right and look for the small carpark of the left. The N21 also runs a couple of services in theafternoon to Saliai itself, in which case you need to doubleback on

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Kaunas Guide