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India
Joe Bindloss, Lindsay Brown, Paul Harding, Anirban Mahapatra, Daniel McCrohan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Michael Benanav, Stuart Butler, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Bradley Mayhew, Kevin Raub, Sarina
Singh, Iain Stewart
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^
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Kashmir & Ladakhp229
Rajasthanp108
Keralap945
Tamil Nadup1011
Goap809
Maharashtrap774
Karnatakap856
Telangana &Andhra Pradesh
p914
Odishap595
Sikkimp535
West Bengalp485
Himachal Pradeshp286
Uttarakhandp413
Madhya Pradesh& Chhattisgarh
p625
Punjab & Haryana
Bihar &Jharkhand
p516
NortheastStatesp558
AndamanIslandsp1095
Kolkatap453
Mumbaip736
Delhip60
UttarPradesh
p377Agra & theTaj Mahal
p355
Gujarat &Diu
p688
p204
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to India . . . . . . . 6India Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8India’s Top 21 . . . . . . . . . 10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20First Time India . . . . . . . 22What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Month by Month . . . . . . . 28Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Booking Trains . . . . . . . . 39Trekking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41Yoga, Ayurveda & Spiritual Pursuits . . . . . . 43Volunteering . . . . . . . . . . 46Travel with Children . . . . 51Regions at a Glance . . . . 54
DELHI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
RAJASTHAN . . . . . . 108Jaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Bharatpur & Keoladeo National Park . . . . . . . . . . 130Alwar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park . . . . . . . . 136Ajmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Ranthambhore National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145Bundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Kota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Chittorgarh (Chittor) . . . . 153Udaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Mt Abu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Nawalgarh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Jhunjhunu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Fatehpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Mandawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Jodhpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Jaisalmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Bikaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
PUNJAB & HARYANA . . . . . . . 204Chandigarh . . . . . . . . . . 206Morni Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Amritsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Kapurthala . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Faridkot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Bathinda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Patiala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Anandpur Sahib . . . . . . . . 226Kurukshetra (Thanesar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
KASHMIR & LADAKH . . . . . . . . 229Leh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Markha Valley . . . . . . . . . . 252Nubra Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 254Pangong Tso . . . . . . . . . . . 257Tso Moriri Loop . . . . . . . . . 258Leh to Kargil . . . . . . . . . . . 259Kargil & Zanskar . . . . . . . . 265Srinagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Pahalgam & Aru . . . . . . . . 279Gulmarg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Naranag & Lake Gangabal . . . . . . . . .280Sonamarg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281South of Srinagar . . . . . . . 282Jammu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
HIMACHAL PRADESH . . . . . . . . . 286Shimla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Rampur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296Sarahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Sangla Valley . . . . . . . . . . .298Rekong Peo . . . . . . . . . . . .299Kalpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299Mandi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302Rewalsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302Tirthan & Banjar Valleys . . . . . . . . . .304Bhuntar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306Parvati Valley . . . . . . . . . .306Kullu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Naggar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Manali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Dharamsala . . . . . . . . . . . . 324McLeod Ganj . . . . . . . . . . . 326Dharamsala to Mandi . . . 336Chamba Valley . . . . . . . . . 338Lahaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Spiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
DIY
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TAJ MAHAL P357, AGRA
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SPICES AT A MARKET STALL
Contents
AGRA & THE TAJ MAHAL . . . . . . . 355Agra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356Fatepur Sikri . . . . . . . . . . . 372
UTTAR PRADESH . . . . . . . . . 377Varanasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380Sarnath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393Gorakhpur . . . . . . . . . . . . .394Kushinagar . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Sunauli & the Nepal Border . . . . . . . . . . . 397Lucknow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398Ayodhya & Around . . . . . .403Prayagraj (Allahabad) . . . 405Western Uttar Pradesh . . . . . . . . . . 410
UTTARAKHAND . . . 413Rishikesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415Haridwar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Rajaji Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425Dehra Dun . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Mussoorie . . . . . . . . . . . . .429Yamunotri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Uttarkashi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Gangotri & Gaumukh Glacier . . . . . . .434Kedarnath . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435Joshimath . . . . . . . . . . . . .436Valley of Flowers & Hem Kund . . . . . . . . . . .438Badrinath & Mana Village . . . . . . . . . . . 441Corbett Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442Nainital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .445Almora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Kausani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .450Bageshwar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451Munsyari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452
KOLKATA (CALCUTTA) . . . . . . 453
WEST BENGAL . . . . 485Sundarbans Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 487Up the Hooghly . . . . . . . . .488Bishnupur . . . . . . . . . . . . .489Shantiniketan . . . . . . . . . .490Murshidabad & Berhampore . . . . . . . . . 492Gaur & Pandua . . . . . . . . . 493Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri . . . . . . . . .494Kurseong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497Darjeeling . . . . . . . . . . . . .498Singalila Ridge . . . . . . . . .508Kalimpong . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510Jaldapara National Park . . . . . . . . . . 515
BIHAR & JHARKHAND . . . . 516Patna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518Raxaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Gaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524Bodhgaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525Rajgir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Nalanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531Ranchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532Betla (Palamau) National Park . . . . . . . . . . 534
SIKKIM . . . . . . . . . . . 535Gangtok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538Rumtek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545Mangan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .546Dzongu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .546Far North Sikkim . . . . . . . 547Namchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549Ravangla (Rabongla) . . . .550Pelling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
Khecheopalri (Kechuperi) Lake . . . . . . . 553Yuksom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554Dzongri & Goecha La – the Khangchendzonga Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555Tashiding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 556Kuluk & Rinchenpong . . . 557
NORTHEAST STATES . . . . . . . . . . . 558Assam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560Arunachal Pradesh . . . . 571Nagaland . . . . . . . . . . . . 579Manipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583Mizoram . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585Tripura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587Meghalaya . . . . . . . . . . . 590
ODISHA . . . . . . . . . . 595Bhubaneswar . . . . . . . . . 597Puri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605Konark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610Chilika Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . 611Gopalpur-on-Sea . . . . . . . 615Koraput . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616Rayagada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619Jeypore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .620Cuttack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 621Dhenkanal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 621Mangarajpur . . . . . . . . . . . 621Pusphagiri Ruins . . . . . . . 621Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 623
MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH . . . 625Gwalior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 627Orchha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632Khajuraho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637Panna Tiger Reserve . . . . 647
Bhopal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .648Sanchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 652Pachmarhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 657Indore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .660Ujjain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 665Mandu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .668Maheshwar . . . . . . . . . . . . 673Omkareshwar . . . . . . . . . . 674Jabalpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 675Kanha Tiger Reserve . . . . 678Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 681Pench Tiger Reserve . . . . 682Raipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .684Jagdalpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 685
GUJARAT & DIU . . . 688Ahmedabad (Amdavad) . . . . . . . . . . . . .690Vadodara (Baroda) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702Bhavnagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706Velavadar Blackbuck National Park . . . . . . . . . . 708Palitana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708Diu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 709Somnath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714Gir National Park & Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . 716Junagadh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 718Gondal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 721Jamnagar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 722Rajkot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 725Kachchh (Kutch) . . . . . 727Bhuj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727Little Rann of Kachchh (Kutch) . . . . . . . 734
MUMBAI (BOMBAY) . . . . . . . . 736
MAHARASHTRA . . . 774Nashik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 776Aurangabad . . . . . . . . . . . . 780Ellora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784Ajanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 787Jalgaon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .790Nagpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .790Konkan Coast . . . . . . . . . . 793Matheran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 797Lonavla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798Pune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .800Kolhapur . . . . . . . . . . . . . .806Mahabaleshwar . . . . . . . . 807
GOA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809Panaji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 812Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .820Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 821Candolim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822Calangute & Baga . . . . . . 825Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .829Assagao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 833Vagator & Chapora . . . . .834Morjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .838Asvem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .839Mandrem . . . . . . . . . . . . . .840Arambol (Harmal) . . . . . . 841Margao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .844Colva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 845Benaulim . . . . . . . . . . . . . .846Agonda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847Palolem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .849Patnem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .854
KARNATAKA . . . . . . 856Bengaluru (Bangalore) . . . . . . . . . . 858Hesaraghatta . . . . . . . . . . 873Mysuru (Mysore) . . . . . . . 873Bandipur National Park . . . . . . . . . . 885Nagarhole National Park . . . . . . . . . .886Kodagu (Coorg) Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 887Hassan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .889Belur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .890Halebid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 891Sravanabelagola . . . . . . . . 891Mangaluru (Mangalore) . . . . . . . . . . . . 892Dharmasthala . . . . . . . . . .894Udupi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .894Malpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 895Gokarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 895Hampi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .899Anegundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .906Hosapete (Hospet) . . . . . 907Hubballi (Hubli) . . . . . . . . 907Badami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 907Vijapura (Bijapur) . . . . . . . 910Bidar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 913
TELANGANA & ANDHRA PRADESH . . . . . . . . . 914Hyderabad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 916Bhongir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 934Warangal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 934Palampet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 934Vijayawada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 935Amaravathi . . . . . . . . . . . . 937Nagarjunakonda . . . . . . . . 937Visakhapatnam . . . . . . . . . 938Tirumala & Tirupati . . . . .942
ON THE ROAD
Contents
KERALA . . . . . . . . . . 945Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) . . . . . . . . . . . 947Kovalam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 952Varkala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 957Kollam (Quilon) . . . . . . . .962Alappuzha (Alleppey) . . .964Marari & Kattoor . . . . . . .969Kottayam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 970Kumarakom . . . . . . . . . . . . 971Periyar Tiger Reserve . . . 973Munnar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 978Kochi (Cochin) . . . . . . . . .983Thrissur (Trichur) . . . . . . .998Kozhikode (Calicut) . . . .1000Wayanad Region . . . . . . . 1003Kannur & Around . . . . . .1006Bekal & Around . . . . . . . .1008Lakshadweep . . . . . . . 1009
TAMIL NADU . . . . . .1011Chennai (Madras) . . . . 1013East Coast Road . . . . . . . 1031Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) . . . . . . 1033Kanchipuram . . . . . . . . . . 1037Tiruvannamalai . . . . . . . .1040Puducherry (Pondicherry) . . . . . . . . . 1042Auroville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1051Chidambaram . . . . . . . . . 1052Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) . . . . . . . . . . 1053Kumbakonam . . . . . . . . . 1054Thanjavur (Tanjore) . . . . 1056Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) . . . . . . .1060Chettinadu . . . . . . . . . . . . 1064Madurai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1067Rameswaram . . . . . . . . . 1071
Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) . . . . . . . 1073Kodaikanal (Kodai) . . . . 1077Coimbatore . . . . . . . . . . . 1082Coonoor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1084Kotagiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1085Ooty (Udhagamandalam) . . . . 1087Mudumalai Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . 1092Anamalai Tiger Reserve (Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park) . . . . . . . 1093
ANDAMAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . 1095Port Blair . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1099Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) . . . . . . . 1104Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep) . . . . . . 1109Middle & North Andaman . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1112Little Andaman . . . . . . . . .1114
India Today . . . . . . . . . .1118History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1121The Way of Life . . . . . . 1138Spiritual India . . . . . . . 1145Delicious India . . . . . . 1153The Great Indian Bazaar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1163The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1171Sacred Architecture . . . . . . . . .1176Wildlife & Parks . . . . . .1181The Landscape . . . . . . 1186
Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1190Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . . 1192Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 1194Transport . . . . . . . . . . . 1207Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1218Language . . . . . . . . . . . 1225Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1239Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 1253
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVAL GUIDE
SPECIAL FEATURES
Red Fort in 3D . . . . . . . . . 66Taj Mahal in 3D . . . . . . . 358Fatehpur Sikri in 3D . . . . . . . . . . . 374Khajuraho Temples in 3D . . . . . . . 638 Mysuru Palace in 3D . . . . . . . . . 876
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Gulf ofMannar
LakshadweepSea
Gulf ofKhambhat
Saurashtra(KathiawarPeninsula)
Nanda Devi(7816m)
K2 (GodwinAustin)(8611m)
Valiyaparamba
Udaipur
Ajanta
MURUDESHWAR
DHANUSHKODI
Gurgaon
Trichy(Tiruchirappalli)
Ajmer
Mangaluru(Mangalore)
Kargil
Indore
Udaipur
Jammu
Bhuj
Coimbatore
Jaisalmer
Warangal
Jodhpur
Aurangabad
Surat
Agra
Ahmedabad(Amdavad)
Mysuru(Mysore)
Jhansi
Amritsar
Bikaner
Rajkot
Srinagar
Bhopal
Mumbai
Dehra Dun
Jaipur
Bengaluru(Bangalore)
Shimla
Hyderabad
Panaji(Panjim)
Thiruvananthapuram(Trivandrum)
ISLAMABAD
KABUL
DELHI
COLOMBO
LONARMETEORITECRATER
DUDHSAGARFALLS
KUMBHALGARH WILDLIFE
THE K3:KISHTWAR–
KILLAR–KEYLONG
SANCTUARY
ParambikulamTiger Reserve
Tadoba-AndhariTiger Reserve
PAKISTAN
RAJASTHAN
KERALA
TAMILNADU
GOA
MAHARASHTRA
KARNATAKA
HARYANAINDIA
ANDHRAPRADESH
JAMMU
GUJARAT
#•
R
India: Off the Beaten Track
Mandvi
In dense forests in Rajasthan this wildlife sanctuary provides homes to antelope, gazelle, leopard, wolves and the occasional sloth bear. (p167)
KUMBHALGARH WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Dubbed the world’s most dangerous road, the K3 teeters along terrifyingly narrow rock ledges high above the Chenab River in Jammu. (p283)
THE K3: KISHTWAR– KILLAR–KEYLONG
Created 50,000 years ago this huge crater in Maharashtra has a shallow green lake at its base and wilderness all around. (p791)
LONAR METEORITE CRATER
Meaning 'Sea of Milk' Dudhsagar is Goa’s 300m-high, tiered waterfall, reached by a bumpy, 45-minute 4WD ride through stunning jungle scenery. (p838)
DUDHSAGAR FALLS
This beachside pilgrimage town in Karnataka is known for its colossal seashore stature of Lord Shiva overlooking the Arabian Sea. (p897)
MURUDESHWAR
Once a thriving port, now a ghost town standing at the end of a remote promontory in Tamil Nadu. (p1072)
DHANUSHKODI
32
PLAN YO
UR TRIP OFF T
HE B
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AndamanSea
Bay ofBengal
AndamanIslands
NicobarIslands
SundarbansNational
Park
Dadu
Ganges River
Khangchendzonga(8586m)
Mt Everest(8848m)
Annapurna(8090m)
PITHORAGARH
LauriyaMandangarh
Udaipur
Mayabunder
Tuting
PARASNATH
Darjeeling
Gyantse
Vijayawada
Varanasi
Raipur
Kolkata
Chittagong
Lucknow
Chennai(Madras)
Aizawl
Guwahati
PortBlair
ShillongImphal
Itanagar
Kohima
Ranchi
Lhasa
KATHMANDU THIMPHU
DHAKA
GUNTUPALLI
DebrigarhWildlife
SanctuarySatkosiaTiger Reserve
BANGLADESH
NEPALARUNACHALPRADESH
UTTARPRADESH
MADHYAPRADESH
CHHATTISGARH
ODISHA
JHARKHAND
MEGHALAYA
TRIPURA
MIZORAM
NAGALAND
MANIPUR
ASSAM
CHINATIBET
CHINA
THAILAND
CHINA
M(BURMA)YANMAR
TELANGANA
SRILANKA
#•
#•
External boundaries shown reflect the requirementsof the government of India.
0 1,000 km0 500 miles#e
A former hilltop Buddhist cave monastery in Andhra Pradesh especially noteworthy for its caves, carvings and chaitya-griha (prayer hall). (p938)
GUNTUPALLI
Remote, friendly getaway town in the hills of eastern Uttarakhand, spread above a valley dubbed ‘Little Kashmir. (p451)
PITHORAGARH
Join hundreds of Jain pilgrims who hike each morning to the Parasnath Temple at the top of Jharkhand’s holy Parasnath Hill. (p533)
PARASNATH
33PLAN
YOUR TRIP O
FF TH
E BE
AT
EN
TR
AC
K
Itineraries
INDIA
PAKISTAN
Pushkar FatehpurSikri
Jodhpur
Agra
Udaipur
Jaisalmer
Jaipur
DELHI
#•
RanthambhoreNational Park
#•
#•
#_
#•#•
#•
#•
É
É
É
É
É
#÷
The Golden Triangle & the Land of the Kings
Linking Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, India’s Golden Triangle combines some of India’s most jaw-dropping sights. The princely splendours of Rajasthan make for a natural extension.
Kick off in Delhi, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells of Old Delhi. Explore its Mughal-era Red Fort and Jama Masjid, and experience living Islamic culture at the cap-tivating Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah. Next, catch a train to Agra and gasp at the beau-ty of the Taj Mahal. Explore Agra Fort and devote a day to the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri. Continue on to the Pink City of Jaipur; don’t miss the City Palace, Hawa Mahal and Amber Fort.
Return to Delhi, or travel on to Pushkar for a few days of chilling out around lakeside temples. Drop into Ranthambhore National Park to spot tigers, then roll south to elegant Udaipur, with its floating palace and serene lake. Next, visit magnificent hilltop Kumbhalgarh and the temple at Ranakpur, en route to Jodhpur; Mehrangarh fort offers the definitive view over Rajasthan’s Brahmin-blue city.
Enjoy a camel trek through the dunes in fortified Jaisalmer before looping back to Delhi for an early-morning trip to the ruins of Qutab Minar.
2 WEEKS
34
Tourist visas last six months, allowing you to mix famous highlights with detours off the established tourist grid.
Start by exploring Delhi, then ride the rails north to Amritsar to see Sikhism’s glit-tering Golden Temple. Connect through Chandigarh to lofty Shimla; from this classic hill station you can roam northwest to Dharamsala, home of the Dalai Lama, before doubling back to adrenalin-charged Manali, starting point for the thrilling overland journey to rugged Ladakh (June to September). When you’ve had your fill of mountain air, head south for some yoga in Rishikesh, and descend to Agra to admire the vision-like Taj Mahal. Next, go south to Khajuraho, with its risqué temples, and scan the jun-gle for tigers in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. Continue to Varanasi for a mesmerising boat trip along the sacred Ganges.
Roam east to Kolkata, bustling capital of West Bengal. Swing north as far as Dar-jeeling or Sikkim for sweeping Himalayan views, then drift down the coast to the temple towns of Konark and Puri in Odisha (Orissa). Continue south to Chennai for a big-city view of South India.
From Chennai, detour south to the temple wonders of Mamallapuram (Mahabali-puram), continuing to French-colonial Puducherry (Pondicherry). Rumble on to Ma-durai, with its deity-encrusted temple towers. Enjoy some beach time in Kerala before roaming inland to nostalgic Mysuru (Mysore) to see how maharajas lived.
Continuing north, head to Hampi, where collapsed temples lie strewn among the boulders, then unwind on the sun-stroked coast of Goa. Wine, fine-dine and go Bollywood-crazy in Mumbai, then admire the glorious cave paintings and carvings at Ajanta and Ellora.
Finish with Rajasthan’s triumvirate of coloured cities – pink Jaipur, blue Jodhpur and white Udaipur. There might just be time to detour to the fascinating temples and nature reserves of Gujarat before you take one last train ride to Delhi.
6 MONTHS
AFGHANISTAN
PAKISTAN
NEPAL
INDIA
BHUTAN
CHINA
MYANMAR(BURMA)
SRILANKAMALDIVES
NicobarIslands
AndamanIslands
Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
Agra
Puri
Ajanta
Dharamsala
KonarkEllora
MaduraiKERALA
Hampi
Amritsar
Varanasi
Mysuru(Mysore) Puducherry
(Pondicherry)
GUJARATKolkata
Chennai
Mumbai
Jaipur
GOA
SIKKIM
Ladakh
BandhavgarhTiger Reserve
#÷#•
#•#•
#•#•
#•#•
#•
#•#•
#•#•#•
#•#•
#•
#•#•
#•
#•#•
ManaliShimla
DELHI
KhajurahoUdaipur
Jodhpur
BANGLADESH
#•Darjeeling
#•RishikeshIRAN
TIBET
THAILANDArabian Sea Bay of Bengal
#•
#•
#•#•
#•
#_#•
É
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North & South
35PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
Ine
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rIe
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1239
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AA Suitable Boy 407 Aalo 577accessible travel 1194accommodation 22, 1194-6,
see also individual locations
children, travel with 53costs 779, 936heritage homestays
24, 969 hostels 24language 1226, 1229
accommodation costs 1194-5Agra 366Amritsar 222Andaman Islands 1103Andhra Pradesh 936Bihar & Jharkhand 522Chhattisgarh 635 Delhi 96Goa 816Gujarat 709Haryana 222Himachal Pradesh 287Jaipur 119Kashmir 257Kerala 959Kolkata 469Ladakh 257Madhya Pradesh 635Mumbai 749Northeast States 567Odisha 608Punjab 222Rajasthan 119Sikkim 549Tamil Nadu 1036Telangana 936Uttar Pradesh 400Uttarakhand 419West Bengal 494
activities 28-31Adinath 709Adivasis 686, 1142-3, see
also tribal peoplesAgartala 587-9, 588Agonda 847-9Agra 55, 355-76, 356, 361
accommodation 355, 364-7
accommodation costs 365
activities 364climate 355drinking & nightlife 369festivals & events 363food 355, 367-9history 356safe travel 370shopping 369sights 356-64tourist information 370-1tours 364travel to/from 371-2travel within 372
Ahmedabad 690-700, 692-3accommodation 695-7festivals & events 695food 697-8shopping 698sights 691-4tourist information 699tours 694travel to/from 699travel within 699-700
Aihole 909-10air travel 1207-8
airlines 104, 1210airports 104, 1207-8
Aizawl 586-7Ajanta Caves 12, 787-90,
788, 12Ajmer 137-40, 138Alappuzha 964-9, 966Alchi 262-3Allahabad, see PrayagrajAlleppey, see Alappuzha
Almora 447-9altitude sickness 1223Alwar 134-6Amaravathi 937Amarnathji Yatra 281Amber 129-30Amdavad, see AhmedabadAmritsar 16, 24, 214-22, 16Anandpur Sahib 226-7Andaman Islands 24, 58,
1095-11, 1096accommodation 1095accommodation costs
1103beaches 1095cell phones 1099climate 1095, 1097environment 1097geography 1097highlights 1096history 1097internet access 1099mobile phones 1099North Andaman 1112-14Restricted Area Permit
1097-8safe travel 1097telephone services 1099travel to/from 1098travel within 1098-9tribal peoples 1115-16
Andaman Trunk Road 1112Andamanese 1115-16Andhra Pradesh 57, 935-44,
915accommodation 914accommodation costs
936climate 914festivals & events 916food 914highlights 915history 916
Anegundi 906-7, 904animals, see individual
animals
Anjuna 829-33, 829Araku Valley 941-2Arambol 841-3architecture 14, 478, 1066,
1125, 1176-80, 14, see also individual buildings
colonial-era 875, 1130Deccan Sultanates 1125
area codes 21art galleries
David Hall 984Kalakriti Art Gallery
919-20Kashi Art Gallery 984Mario Gallery 813Museum of Goa 825Tara Books 1015
arts 1163-70, 1171-5bell-metal craftwork 686Bidri 1165carpet-making 1163-4folk art 1166-7Kachchh handicrafts
732-3leatherwork 1165metalwork 1165miniature paintings 152,
1166murals 152patachitra 610rangolis 1174Saora art 610talpatra 610Tibetan arts 334woodcarving 1169wool shawls 313, 1167
Aru 279-80Arunachal Pradesh 571-9ashrams 44
Anasakti Ashram 450Maharishi Mahesh Yogi
Ashram 417Matha Amrithanandamayi
Mission 964Osho International
Meditation Resort 801, 804
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1240
IND
EX A–
B
ashrams continuedSabarmati Ashram 691Sivagiri Mutt 957-8Sivananda Yoga Vedanta
Dhanwantari Ashram 952
Sri Aurobindo Ashram 1042-3
Sri Ramana Ashram 1040
Surfing Ashram 895Swarg Ashram 417Vivekanandapuram 1074
Asiatic lions 716, 717Assagao 833-4Assam 560-71Asven 839-40ATMs 1200Aurangabad 780-4, 781Auroville 1051-2autorickshaws 1213Avalanche Valley 1091Awantipora 282Ayodhya 403-5ayurveda 27, 44-5, 977
BBabur 1127backwaters 972-3, 1008Badami 907-9Baga 825-9, 826Bageshwar 451-2Bahu 304Bajrang Dal 597Bandel 489Bandhavgarh National Park
681-2, 13Bandipur National Park
885-6Bangalore, see BengaluruBanjar Valley 304-6Bansberia 489bargaining 23, 1168Barkul 615Baroda 702-5, 703Barshani 310-11Basgo 260-1basilicas, see churches &
cathedralsBathinda 224-5Bavikonda 941beaches 15, 26-7, 15, 818bears 1182, 1183Beatles, the 415, 417
Bekal 1009-10Belur 890-1Benaulim 846-7Bengaluru 858-73, 860-1
accommodation 864-5activities 863drinking & nightlife
868-9entertainment 870-1festivals & events 864food 865-8history 859shopping 871sights 859-63tourist information 871-2tours 863travel to/from 872, 873travel within 872-3
Berhampore 492-3Bhagsu 333-5Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh
801, 804bhang 188, 1203Bharatpur 130-4, 132Bharmour 342-3Bhavnagar 706-8, 708Bheemunipatnam 940Bhimbetka 652Bhitarkanika Wildlife
Sanctuary 623-4Bhojpur 652Bhongir 934Bhopal 648-52, 649Bhubaneswar 597-605,
598Bhuj 727-30, 728Bhujodi 732Bhuntar 306bicycle hire 1210-11Bidar 913Bihar 56, 518-32, 517
accommodation 516 accommodation costs
522climate 516festivals & events 519food 516highlights 517history 518safe travel 531water 529
Bijapur, see VijapuraBikaner 197-202, 198-9bike travel 1210-11Billing 337-8Binsar 450Bir 337-8birds 1184
bird-watchingBhitarkanika Wildlife
Sanctuary 623Binsar Wildlife
Sanctuary 450Centre for Desert &
Ocean 732Chilika Lake 611-15Corbett Tiger Reserve
442Dandeli 908Debrigarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 624Fudam Bird Sanctuary
712Great Himalayan
National Park 305Hampi 902Keoladeo National
Park 131Khijadiya Bird
Sanctuary 725Mt Abu 171Nalsarovar Bird
Sanctuary 701Nameri National Park
565Pobitora Wildlife
Sanctuary 564Rajaji Tiger Reserve 425Ranganathittu Bird
Sanctuary 885Sultanpur Bird
Sanctuary 228Tirthan Valley 304Thattekkad Bird
Sanctuary 982Vedanthangal Bird
Sanctuary 1035Wild Ass Sanctuary 734Ziro Valley 576
Bishnoi villages 187Bishnupur 489-90black market 1201Blue Mountains 1080boat travel 24, 1210, 1211,
1213boat trips
Alappuzha 965Assam 562Diu 712Ganges 380, 488Kerala backwaters 13,
972-3, 1008, 13Kollam 962Mumbai-Goa 1211Periyar Tiger Reserve 974
Bodhgaya 525-9, 526Bollywood 767, 1174Bombay, see MumbaiBomdila 571-2
booking trains 39-40books
cinema 1174, 1175dance 1171fiction 1118food 473, 1153, 1154,
1156, 1157, 1160history 1126, 1128, 1131,
1132religion 1122, 1145, 1149textiles 1168visual arts 1173wildlife 1185
border crossingsIndia-Bangladesh 1208India-Bangladesh
(Agartala) 589India-Bangladesh
(Siliguri) 496India-Bhutan 1208-9India-Bhutan (Siliguri)
496India-Myanmar 1209 India-Myanmar (Moreh)
586India-Myanmar
(Zokhawthar) 586India-Nepal 1209India-Nepal (Banbassa)
449India-Nepal (Panitanki)
506India-Nepal (Raxual) 524India-Nepal (Siliguri)
496India-Nepal (Sunauli)
397India-Pakistan 1209-10India-Pakistan
(Attari–Wagah) 222Buddha 395, 396, 522, 523,
545, 546, 528, 530, 1123Buddhism 1150-1Buddhist architecture 1178Buddhist circuit 1150Buddhist temples 25
Ajanta Caves 12, 787-90, 788, 12
Amaravathi 937Chetiyagiri Vihara 656Chukchikjal Temple 270Ellora Caves 784-7Global Vipassana Pagoda
743Golden Temple 890-1Indosan Nipponji Temple
526Mahabodhi Temple 525Mahaparinirvana Temple
396Mathakuar Temple 396
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1241IN
DEX B
–D
Mulgandha Kuti Vihar 394
Sanchi 655, 1180Thai Temple &
Monastery 393Tsuglagkhang Complex
326Tsuklakhang 539Zangdogpalri Temple
890-1budgeting 21, see also
accommodation costs, costs
buffalo racing 896Bundi 148-52, 149bus travel 1006, 1213 business hours 21, 1201-2Bylakuppe 890
CCalangute 825-9, 826Calcutta, see KolkataCalicut, see KozhikodeCandolim 822-5, 824cannabis 188, 306, 384,
1199, 1203Cape Comorin, see
Kanyakumaricar travel 1211-13car-sharing services 24
Delhi 107Goa 811Jaipur 128Kolkata 484Mumbai 772
carpets 1163-4caste system 1139-14cathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves
Ajanta Caves 12, 787-90, 788, 12
Aurangabad Caves 782Badami 908-9Baratang caves 1112Bhaja Caves 800Borra Caves 941Buddhist caves, Ellora
786-7Edakkal Caves 1004Ellora Caves 784-7, 786Guntupalli 938Jain caves, Ellora 787Kanheri Caves 769Karla Caves 800Kutumsar Cave 687Lenyadri 806Saspol 262Undavalli Cave
Temples 935
cell phones 20, 1099, 1204chaat galli 368chai 1160Chamba 340-42, 341Chamba Valley 338-43Champaner 705-6Chandannagar 489Chandigarh 206-13, 208-9Chapora 834-8, 836charas 306Chemrey 251-2Chennai 1013-31, 1016-17,
1022-3accommodation 1020-3activities 1019courses 1019drinking & nightlife
1026-7entertainment 1027food 1023-6history 1014shopping 1027-8sights 1014-15, 1018-19,
1020tourist information 1028-9tours 1019-20travel to/from 1029travel within 1030-1
Chennamangalam 997-8Cherrapunjee 593-4Chettinadu 1064-7Chhattisgarh 56, 684-7, 626
accommodation 625accommodation costs
635climate 625costs 635festivals & events 627food 625highlights 626history 627
Chidambaram 1052-3Chidiya Tapu 1104children, travel with 51-3,
766China, relations with 1126Chinnar Wildlife
Sanctuary 983Chishti, Khwaja Muin-ud-
din 137-8Chitkul 298-9Chitrakut 405Chittorgarh (Chittor) 153-6,
154Chola temples 1055Christianity 573, 1151-2churches & cathedrals
Armenian Church of Nazareth 460
Bandel Basilica 489Basilica de Bom Jesus
820Basilica of Our Lady of
Dolours 998Chennai 1020Church of Our Lady of
the Immaculate Con-ception 812, 818-19
Church of South India 1000
Church of St Cajetan 821-2
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Diu) 710
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Old Goa) 821
CSI Christ Church 978Holy Rosary Cathedral
460Lourdes Church 1062Marth Mariam Church
998New Jerusalem Church
1053Our Lady of Immaculate
Conception Cathedral 1044
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral 998
Puducherry 1044Sacred Heart Basilica
1044San Thome Cathedral
1015Santa Cruz Basilica 984Sé Cathedral 820Solomon’s Temple 586St Aloysius College
Chapel 893St Francis Church 983St John’s Church
(Kolkata) 460 St John’s Church
(Trichy) 1062St Mary’s Cathedral 1069St Mary’s Orthodox
Church 970St Mary’s Syrian
Knanaya Church 970St Paul’s Cathedral 456St Paul’s Church 710St Stephen’s Church
1087St Teresa’s Church 743St Thomas’ Cathedral 742St Thomas’ Church 1087
cinema 767, 1118, 1133, 1174-5
Cinque Island 1104climate 20, 28-31, 42climate change 1207
clothing 1141Cochin, see KochiCoimbatore 1082-4, 1083Colva 845-6consulates 1196-8cooking classes 1158
Assagao 833Delhi 79-81 Jaipur 117 Kochi 985Kolkata 465 Munnar 979Palolem 849-50Periyar Tiger Reserve 974Pushkar 141Udaipur 160 Vagator 835
Coonoor 1084-5Coorg region, see Kodagu
regionCorbett Tiger Reserve 442-5costs 21, see also
accommodation costsbus 1212car 1212food 1196healthcare 1220train 1216, 1217
Covelong, see Kovalam (Tamil Nadu)
Craggy Island 1113credit cards 1190, 1200-1culture 1138-14currency 20, 1200customs regulations 1196,
1199Cuttack 621cycle-rickshaws 1213cycling 1210-11
Ddabba-wallahs 761Dalai Lama 326, 331, 332Dalhousie 338-40, 339Daman 706Dandeli 908dangers, see safe travelDarjeeling 498-508, 500debit cards 1200-1Debrigarh Wildlife
Sanctuary 624Dehra Dun 426-9, 426Delhi 17, 54, 60-107, 62-3,
68-9, 72-3, 80-1, 84, 88-9, 17
accommodation 60, 82-7accommodation costs
96activities 79-81
1242
IND
EX D–
G
Delhi continuedclimate 60courses 79-81drinking & nightlife 96-9entertainment 99festivals & events 61food 60, 87-96food costs 96highlights 62-3history 61safe travel 102-3shopping 99-102sights 64-79tourist information 103-4tours 81-2travel to/from 104-6travel within 106-7
demographics 1119departure tax 1208Desert National Park 197Dha Hanu 256Dhankar 352Dhanushkodi 1072Dharamkot 333-5Dharamsala 324-6, 325Dharavi Slum 748Dharmasthala 894Dhenkanal 621dhows 731Dibrugarh 570-1Diglipur 1113-14Dimapur 579Dirang 572disabilities, travellers
with 1194Diskit 254-5Diu 57, 709-14, 711Diwali 28, 31, 61Donyi-Polo religion 573drinks 1159-60
beer 24, 762bhang lassis 1203lassis 389scams 1190whisky 874wine 778, 874, 1160
driving 1211-13driving licences 1214drugs 1190, 1199, 1203Dussehra 31, 61, 301,
311, 879Dzongu 546-7Dzükou Valley 581
Eelectricity 1196elephants 1181
Andaman Islands 1108Betla (Palamau) National
Park 534Corbett Tiger Reserve 442Jaldapara National
Park 515Kaziranga National
Park 566Manas National Park 564Rajaji Tiger Reserve 425
Ellora Caves 784-7, 786embassies 1196-8emergencies 21, 1228,
1230, see also safe travel
endangered species 1183environmental issues
endangered species 1183boat trips 973 Kerala backwaters 973 volunteering 48
Eravikulam National Park 983
Ernakulam, see Kochietiquette 23, 787, 1120, 1149events, see festivals &
eventsExcelsior Island 1113exchange rates 21exports 1199
FFaridkot 224Fatehpur 176-7Fatehpur Sikri 372-6, 374-5festivals & events 28-31,
see also individual locations
films 767, 1118, 1133, 1174-5five pillars of Islam 1149floating islands 585food 23, 1153-16, 2, see
also individual locationsBengal 473bread 1154Chennai street food 1026 children, travel with 53costs 96, 1198dabba-wallahs 761Delhi street food 92glossary 1160-2Gujarat 707health 1222Hyderabad 926Kashmiri 280kebabs 401language 1226-7, 1229-30
Mumbai street food 758Odisha 602Parsi cafes 755 Punjab 226scams 1190Sikkim 543Tibet 243tongba 547Uttar Pradesh 401
forts 25Agra Fort 360-3Amber Fort 129Anandpur Sahib Fort 227Bala Quila 135Bekal Fort 1009Bhadra Fort 692Bidar Fort 913Chalukyan hill fort 934Chandragiri Fort 944Chapora Fort 834Chehni Kothi 304Chittorgarh (Chittor)
153-6Citadel (Vijapura) 910-11Dansborg fort 1053-4Daulatabad Fort 784Diu Fort 710Fort Aguada 822Fort St Angelo 1007Fort St George 1019Gingee Fort 1041Golconda Fort 920-1Govindgarh 224Gwalior Fort 629-30Hari Parbat Fort 274-5Jaigarh 129-30Jaisalmer Fort 188, 14Janjira Fort 793-4Junagarh 198-9Kamru Fort 298Kangla Fort 584Kangra Fort 335Kankwari Fort 136Kondapalli Fort 935Kumbhalgarh 166Lohagarh 130-1Mehrangarh 179, 18Naggar Castle 312Nahargarh 116Pratapgad Fort 808Purana Qila 76Qila Mubarak (Faridkot)
224Qila Mubarak (Patiala)
225Raigad Fort 794-5Ranthambhore Fort
145-7Red Fort 64-7, 66-7
Shaniwar Wada 801Shivneri Fort 806Sindhudurg Fort 796Sinhagad 805-6Siri Fort 75-6Taragarh 149Tsemo Fort 235Tughlaqabad 79Uparkot Fort 720Warangal Fort 934
Fudam 712
GGalgibag 854Gandhi, Indira 75, 1137Gandhi, Mahatma 450,
690, 691, 695, 706, 725, 726, 738, 1133-4, 1166
Gandhi Memorial Museum 1068
Gandhi Museum 72-3Gandhi National
Memorial 800National Gandhi
Museum 74Raj Ghat memorial 73-4
Gandhinagar 700Ganesh Chaturthi 28, 30Ganges 415, 422
boat trips 380, 488Ganges Delta 487-94Sangam 405-7
Gangetic dolphins 487Gangotri 434-5Gangtok 538-45, 540Ganpatipule 795-6gardens, see parks &
gardensGarhwal 418Garhwali Himalaya 433Gaumukh Glacier 434Gaur 493-4Gaya 524-5gay travellers 765, 1144,
1199-200gems 125, 1191gender equality
1118-19ghats
Chitrakut 405Haridwar 422Mathura 410Maheshwar 673Mumbai 743Nashik 776Pushkar 141Rishikesh 415Ujjain 666Varanasi 381-4
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1243IN
DEX G
–H
Ghum 508Goa 15, 57, 809-55, 810, 15
accommodation 809accommodation costs 816Central Goa 812-21climate 809festivals & events 812food 809highlights 810history 811North Goa 821-43safe travel 833South Goa 844-55tourist information 811travel to/from 811travel within 811-12
Gokarna 895-9Golconda Fort 920-1Golden Temple 16, 1178-9,
16, 1178-9gompas 1152Gondal 721-2Gopalpur-on-Sea 615-16Gorakhpur 394-5Gorkhaland 499Gorkhas 499Goudaguda 619Guda Bishnoi 187Gujarat 57, 688-735, 689
accommodation 688accommodation costs 709climate 688eastern Gujarat 690-706festivals & events 690food 688highlights 689history 690Kachchh 727-35Saurashtra 706-27
Gulabgarh 283Gulmarg 280Guntupalli 938Guwahati 560-3, 561Gwalior 627-32, 628
HHalebid 891Hampi 10, 899-906, 902,
904, 11Hare Krishnas 411-12Haridwar 422-5, 423Harmal, see ArambolHaryana 54, 227-8, 205
accommodation 204accommodation costs
222climate 204festivals & events 213
food 204highlights 205
Hassan 889-90Havelock Island, see Swaraj
Dweepheadhunting 582health 1218-24
altitude sickness 233carbon monoxide
poisoning 1224children, travel with 53environmental hazards
1222-4food 1222heat 1222-3insurance 1218medicines 1219mosquitoes 597water 529, 1221
healthcare 1220Hem Kund 438-40Hemis 249-51heritage hotels 1195Hesaraghatta 873hijras 1143Hikkim 350-1hill stations 13, 26, 13,
19, see also individual locations
Himachal Pradesh 55, 286-354, 288-9
accommodation 286accommodation costs
287Central Himachal
Pradesh 301-24climate 286festivals & events 301food 286history 287Kinnaur 296-301Lahaul 343-54Southern Himachal
Pradesh 287-96Spiti 343-54Western Himachal
Pradesh 324-43Himalayas 433Hindi language 1225-9Hindu architecture 1176-7Hindu deities 1145-6Hindu temples 605
1000-Pillared Temple 934
Achyutaraya Temple 901Ahom temples 569Akshardham
(Delhi) 78 Akshardham
(Gandhingar) 700
Arunachaleshwar Temple 1040
Ayyappan Temple 978Badrinath Temple 441Bagnath Temple 451Baijnath Temple 337Bala Hanuman Temple
723Bhadrakali Temple 934Bhima Devi Temple 214Bijamandala Temple 644Bijli Mahadev Temple
311-12Birla Mandir
(Hyderabad) 919Birla Mandir (Kolkata)
464Brahma Temple
(Khajuraho) 643Brahma Temple
(Pushkar) 141 Brahmani Mata Temple
343Brajeshwari Devi Temple
336Brihadishwara
Temple 1057 Chandi Devi Temple 422Channakeshava
Temple 891 Chaturbhuj Temple 633Chaturbhuja Temple 644Chausath Yogini 605Chausath Yogini Temple
643Chitragupta Temple 642Choskhor Temple
Complex 262-3 Devi Jagadamba Temple
642Duladeo Temple 644Durga Temple 906,
909-10Dwarkadhish Temple 725Ekambareshwara
Temple 1038 Elephanta Island 746Five Rathas 1033, 1035 Galta 116Ganesh Ratha 1037 Gangeswar Temple 711Gangotri Temple 434Ghantai Temple 643Gopal Mandir 667Govind Dev Temple 412Hadimba Mandir 315-16Hanseswari Temple 489Hanuman Temple
(Anegundi) 906Hanuman Temple
(Delhi) 77
Hanuman Temple (Khajuraho) 643.
Hanuman Temple (Sa-riska Tiger Reserve & National Park) 136
Hanumangarhi 403 Harsiddhi Mandir 666Hazarama Temple 901Hoysaleswara Temple
891Iskcon Temple 743Jagannath Temple 617Jagdish Temple 160Jakhu Hanuman Statue
292Janardhana Temple 957Javari Temple 643Jhandewalan Hanuman
Temple 71Jor Bangla 490Kailasa Temple 785-6 Kailasanatha Temple
1039Kala Rama Temple 776 Kalighat Temple 464Kalikamata Temple 705Kamakhya Mandir 560Kamakshi Amman
Temple 1038 Kanak Bhavan 403-4Kanaka Durga
Temple 935Kandariya-Mahadev
Temple 642Kapaleeshwarar
Temple 1015 Karni Mata Temple 203Kashivishvanatha
Temple 1054Kedarnath 435Kesava Deo Temple 410Keshava Temple 885Krishna Balaram Temple
Complex 411-12Krishna Temple 894-5 Kumari Amman
Temple 1074Kumbeshwara
Temple 1054Lakshimi Narasmiha 901Lakshmana Temple 641Lakshmi Narayan Temple
633-4Lakshmi Narayan Temple
Complex 340Lakshna Devi
Temple 342Lakulisha Temple 705Lalguan Mahadev
Temple 643Laxman Temple 685
1244
IND
EX H–J
Hindu temples continuedLaxmi Narayan Temple
189Lingaraj Mandir 597Mahabaleshwara
Temple 896Mahadeva Temple 642Mahakaleshwar Mandir
665Mahalaxmi Mandir 806Mahishamardini
Mandapa 1037 Manimahesh Temple 342Manjunatha Temple 894Mansa Devi 422Masrur temple complex
336Mata Temple 217Matangesvara Temple
642Meenakshi Amman
Temple 1067-8, 1176-7Mukteswar Mandir 598-
9, 612Murlidhar Krishna
Temple 313Nageshwara Temple
1054Nanda Devi Temple 448Nataraja Temple 1052-3Nil Kanth Palace 671Old Rangji Temple 141Pagal Baba Temple 412Pap Mochani (Gayatri)
Temple 141Parsurameswar Mandir
600Parsvanath Temple 643Parvati Temple 642Patalpuri Temple 407-8Pratapeswar Temple 642Raghunath Mandir 282Rajarani Mandir 600Ram Janam Bhumi 404Ram Raja Temple 633Ramakrishna Mission 70Ramanathaswamy
Temple 1072Ramappa Temple 934-5Ramaswami Temple
1054Rasmancha 489Raya Gopura 1037rock-cut temple 952-3Rock Fort Temple 1061
Sachiya Mata Temple 187Sai Ka Angan Temple 79Sarangapani Temple
1054Savitri Mata Temple 141Shankaracharya Mandir
272Shantinath Temple 643Shore Temple 1033Shri Krishna Temple
1000Shri Murudeshwar
temple 897Shyamrai 489Siddeshwara Temple 934Simhachalam Temple
938Sri Chamundeswari
Temple 875Sri Jambukeshwara
Temple 1060-1Sri Kalahasteeswara
Temple 1043Sri Manakula Vinayagar
Temple 1044Sri Ranganathaswamy
Temple 1060Sun Temple (Konark)
610-11, 612-13Sun Temple (Modhera)
700Svayambhu Temple 934Swaminarayan Temple
692Swarg Niwas & Shri
Trayanbakshwar 415Takhteshwar Temple 706Tamil Nadu 1043Temple of Amba Mata
719Temple of Gorakhnath
719Temple of Somnath 715Thirunelly Temple 1004Trimurti Cave Temple
1033Tripura Sundari Mandir
589Tripura Sundari Temple
313Undavalli Cave Temples
935Vadakkunathan Kshe-
tram Temple 998Vaikunta Perumal
Temple 1038Vamana Temple 643Varadaraja Perumal
Temple 1038-9Varaha Mandapa 1037 Vashisht Mandir 323
Venkateshwara Temple 942
Venugopala Swamy Temple 884
Vijayalaya Cholisvaram 1065
Virupaksha temple (Hampi) 900, 11
Virupaksha temple (Pattadakal) 909
Vishnu Mandir 313Vishvanath Temple 642Vishwanath Temple 381Vittala Temple 900Yamunotri Temple 432
Hinduism 1145-8history 1121-37hitching 1213Hmuifang 587Holi 28, 29, 388, 7holidays 1202-3homestays 1195Hooghly River 488-9Hosapete 907Hospet, see Hosapetehouseboats 276Hubballi 907Hubli, see HubballiHundarman Broq 265Hunder 255Hyderabad 916-33, 917,
919, 920, 924, 928accommodation 922-4activities 922drinking & nightlife
927-30entertainment 930-1festivals & events 922food 925-7sights 917-22tourist information 931-2tours 922travel to/from 932travel within 932-3
IIchar 271immigration 1205-6, 1207Imphal 584-5Indore 660-5, 662-3inner line permits 294, 299insurance 1198
health 1218motorcycles 1215
internet access 1099, 1198internet resources 1159,
1182, 1193, 1200Irrawaddy dolphins 614Islam 1148-9
Islamic architecture 1178-9Badshahi Ashurkhana
918Moula Ali Dargah 921
Islamnagar 652Itanagar 575itineraries 32-8, 32-3, 34,
35, 36, 37, 38
JJabalpur 675-8, 676Jagdalpur 685-6 Jain architecture 1178
Nandyavarta Mahal 532Parasnath Hill 533Udayagiri & Khandagiri
Caves 599Jain temples 25
Adinath Mandir 722Adinath Temple 644Bhandari Basti 891Bhandasar Temple 199Chandragupta Basti 891Chandranatha Basti 891Chandraprabhu 189Chaumukha Mandir 167Digambara Jain
Temple 65Ellora Caves 787Hutheesingh Temple 691Mahavira Temple 187Parasnath 189Shantinath Mandir 722Sittannavasal 1065Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red)
Temple 139Temple of Mallinath 718Temple of Neminath 718
Jainism 1151Jaipur 109-28, 112-13Jaisalmer 14, 188-96,
190-1, 14Jalgaon 790Jammu 282-5, 284Jamnagar 722-5, 723Jarawa 1115-16Jari 306-8jewellery 1164-5Jeypore 620Jhansi 404Jharkhand 56, 532-4, 517
accommodation 516accommodation costs
522climate 516festivals & events 519food 516highlights 517history 518
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Trent HoldenUttarakhand A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to un-earth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to
national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.
Bradley MayhewKashmir & Ladakh; Agra & the Taj Mahal; Uttar Pradesh Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Ox-ford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the cowriter of Lonely Planet guides Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via
Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails. Bradley has also worked on guides to Mongolia, Jordan, Morocco, India and the Indian Himalaya; written for Rough Guides; contributed chapters to Silk Road: Monks, Warriors & Merchants and is a cowriter of Insight Guide’s Silk Road.
Kevin RaubMumbai; Maharashtra Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, until he ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing. He has since written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a vari-ety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers, and continues
pounding the world’s pavements with one goal in mind: membership in the Travelers’ Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 93. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.
Sarina SinghAfter finishing her business degree Sarina bought a one-way ticket to India, where she met an aspiring photographer who requested her to write a paragraph for one of his photos in the hope he could get it published. The magazine asked Singh to turn her 100 word ‘caption’ into a 3000 word feature, and so began her accidental writing career. After five years in India she returned to her home town of Melbourne to pursue postgraduate studies at one of Australia’s top journalism universities.
Sarina has written for 50 Lonely Planet titles, including more than 10 editions of India; four editions of Rajasthan and three editions of South India. She has also written for dozens of other international publications such as UK’s Sunday Times and USA’s National Geographic Traveler. Find her on Twitter @sarina_singh and www.sarinasingh.com. Sarina wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.
Iain StewartKarnataka; Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned more than 60 books for desti-nations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain’s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and South-East Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and
Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Daniel McCrohanDelhi; Punjab & Haryana Daniel is a widely published Asia-travel expert who has written or cowritten more than 40 guidebooks for both Lonely Planet and Trailblazer. He specialises in China and India, but has also written books on Mongolia, Russia, Tibet and Bangladesh, plus numerous British walking guides. Daniel has been a guest speaker at international travel shows, and was a cohost on the television travel series Best in China. He speaks Chinese, adores tea and
cycles pretty much everywhere. Find out what he’s up to on Twitter @danielmccrohan, or at danielmccrohan.com.
Isabella NobleKerala; Andaman Islands English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist trav-el journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has cowritten Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She
has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and written Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram @isabellamnoble.
John NobleWest Bengal; Northeast States John has been travelling for Lonely Planet since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written is well into three figures, on numerous countries scattered across the globe. He’s still as excited as ever about heading out to unfamiliar destinations, especially off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the Pyrenees to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.
Michael BenanavTamil Nadu Michael is a veteran traveler, writer and photographer who loves ex-ploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s written three non-fiction books, including Men Of Salt: Crossing the Sahara on the Caravan of White Gold – the true story of a 1000-mile journey with one of the world’s last working camel caravans – and Himalaya Bound: One Family’s Quest to Save Their Animals & an Ancient Way of Life, which follows a tribe of nomadic water buffalo herders into
the Indian Himalayas. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents endangered cultures around the world. When not off travelling, he can often be found hiking in the hills behind his home in northern New Mexico. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.
Stuart ButlerMadhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh; Gujarat & Diu Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow-bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. He also works as a photographer and
was a finalist in both the 2015 and 2016 Travel Photographer of the Year Awards. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of Southwest France with his wife and two young children. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.
Mark ElliottHimachal Pradesh; Sikkim Mark Elliott had already lived and worked on five conti-nents when, in the pre-Internet dark ages, he started writing travel guides. He has since written (or cowritten) around 60 books including dozens for Lonely Planet. He also acts as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, speaker, interviewer and blues harmonicist. He’s @Markbek on Twitter or www.instagram.com/markbekaz.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415318th edition – October 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 369 8© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSJoe BindlossJoe first got the travel bug on a grand tour of Asia in the early 1990s, and he’s been roaming around its temples and paddy-fields ever since on dozens of assignments for Lonely Planet and other publishers, covering everywhere from Myanmar and Thailand to India and Nepal. When not on the road, Joe works as Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Indian Subcontinent. Joe wrote the Plan Your Trip section.
Lindsay BrownRajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has cowritten more than 35 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.
Paul HardingGoa As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia. He’s on twitter @phtravel and at paulharding.contently.com.
Anirban MahapatraKolkata; Bihar & Jharkhand; Odisha Anirban is a travel writer, photographer and filmmaker who has written multiple editions of Lonely Planet’s bestselling India guidebook, as well as several regional handbooks. He has written and curated Lonely Planet guidebooks or Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Bhutan, as well as design-ing content models and holding writer workshops for Lonely Planet. He has also made videos and documentaries for international television networks, corporates
and ministries under the Government of India. When not travelling the world, he lives in Kolkata and Bangkok, where he reads up on Buddhism, listens to the blues and plans his next adventure.
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