Bangladesh 6 Chittagong Division v1 m56577569830521637

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Chittagong division contains some of the highlights of Bangladesh. And we mean literally

HIGH lights. This fantastically diverse region stretches from the worlds longest, unbroken

beach at the brash resort of Coxs Bazar to Burmese-tasting hills 1000m high and a thousand

stories thick. Much of the region feels like a different country altogether. If youve spent much

time absorbing the ruler-straight horizons elsewhere in Bangladesh, it will be a pleasure to

stare at ruffled peaks and troughs, and after visiting so many straight-edged mosques, the

golden pinnacles of a Buddhist stupa are poetry indeed. Even the people themselves are dif-

ferent; gone are the clogging crowds of India, in are the gentle smiles of southeast Asia.

Chittagong division is truly a meeting point and, unfortunately, sometimes a battleground

between two very different sets of ideas, religions, cultures, peoples and landscapes. All this

means that its not just one of the highlights of Bangladesh, but that it is one of the most

fascinating areas of Asia.

Chittagong Division

Lonely Planet Publications

HIGHLIGHTS

Sailing around the countless unfathomably

green islands littering the surface of Kaptai Lake at

Rangamati(p130), home to the smiling Chakma

tribe

Giving into the enthusiasm of Bangladeshi holiday

crowds at Coxs Bazar(p136) and cheering for

floaters and tubes in the annual surfing contest.

Yes, you read that right!

Swinging the days away in a hammock on St MartinsIsland(p141), Bangladeshs only coral island

Chilling with the monks in Chitmorong(p133), a serene

Buddhist village on the shores of a deep-blue lake

Hiking a slippery mountain trail to the remote tribal

villages surrounding Bandarban(p134), the most

scenically beautiful chunk of Bangladesh

Chitmorong

Bandarban

Rangamati

IslandSt Martin's

Cox's Bazar

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CHITTAGONG%31The sticky city of Chittagong (the second-largest city in Bangladesh, with a populationof around four million) is the countrys busi-

est port. The constant stream of super shipsthat line its docks bring with them more than

just material goods they bring ideas, fash-ions and philosophies from around the world.Its this cosmopolitan exchange of mindsthat makes Chittagong such a fascinatinglydifferent side of Bangladesh to explore for afew days.

History

Locals say the word Chittagong originatedfrom chattagram (small village), thoughit more likely comes from the Rakhaing(Arakanese) phrase tsi-tsi-gong (war shouldnever be fought) inscribed on a tablet broughtby an invading Buddhist army.

Despite its name, Chittagong has beenconsistently fought over. In 1299 Muslimsoccupied the city, until the Rakhaing retookit and retained it until 1660. The Mughals

took possession next, only to be expelled bythe Rakhaing in 1715. Finally, in 1766, theBritish raised their flag.

The evolution of the city followed a simi-lar pattern to Dhaka, except that the oldestparts (where the city of Sadarghat now stands)were wiped out during the British and post-Independence periods. The Pakistani navyshelled the city during the Liberation War.

OrientationStation Rd is basically the centre of town andis a good reference point. Towards its easternend, on the corner of Jubilee Rd, is the largeNew Market building (Riponi Bitan).

The Central Bazar is a warren of lanes be-tween the lower ends of Jubilee and StationRds. Its almost impossible not to lose yourway among the densely packed rows ofclothing shops.

The more upmarket shopping area is alongCDA Ave, at the intersection of Zakir Hossainand Nizam Rds, which is called GEC Circle.There are also a number of restaurants inthis area.

Chittagongs business district is theAgrabad Commercial Area, the grid of streetsbetween Sheikh Mujib Rahman Rd and theHotel Agrabad, around which youll findnumerous international airline offices.

MAPS

Mappa publishes a good Chittagong city map.You may be able to buy one from a bookshopon CDA Ave, or from street vendors.

InformationGEC Circle has a couple of internet cafs, andthere are banks in the Agrabad CommercialArea.Dot.com(GEC Circle; per hr Tk 20) For internet access.HSBCNear the Ethnological Museum; has an ATM.Main post office (Suhrawardi Rd;h8am-8.30pmSat-Thu)Standard Chartered Bank With branches on StationRd and Central Bazar; and a 24hr ATM at Peninsula Chit-

tagong Hotel lobby, CDA Ave.

Sights & ActivitiesOLD CITY

As in Dhaka, the citys oldest area is the water-front area called Sadarghat. Also just like inDhaka, this is a cacophony of sensual assaults.The early arrival of the Portuguese is evincedby the proximity of the Paterghatta district, justnext to Sadarghat, which remains a Christian

area. There isnt much to see in Paterghatta, butits a quiet, clean place to walk around untilyou get into the slums of the prawn-sellersaround the waterfront near Feringhee Bazar,which will leave an enduring stench on yourshoes and in your mind. A rowboat back toSadarghat costs anything from Tk 5.

You can hire a boat from the boat terminalto go across the river (Tk 20, 10 minutes) tothe fish harbour and market. The Marine Fisheries

Academy is housed in a new building with asmall museum.

Shahi Jama-e-Masjid, in Anderkilla (innerfort), was built in 1670 on a hillock andhence looks a bit like a fort. The mosque hasa tall minaret, Saracenic or Turkish in design,which looms up out of the shops that havesince surrounded it. In the early 1950s it wasgreatly enlarged and most of its original fea-tures altered, though a number of original

inscriptions are still embedded in the walls.The Chilla of Badar Shah derives its namefrom a Sufi (ascetic Muslim mystic) whocame to Chittagong in 1336. It is a modest-sized place with a courtyard and worship areabuilt around the grave of Badar Shah, and iswithin walking distance from the Shahi-Jama-e-Masjid. There are several mazars(graves) inthe area, so make sure youre directed to theright one ask for Badar Shah Chilla.

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President Zia proclaimed the countrys inde-pendence in 1971, and you can see the blood-stained and bullet-damaged wall at the foot ofthe stairs where Zia was shot.

The Chandanpura Mosqueis north of the citycentre on the road to Kaptai, near DewanBazar. It has no historical importance butis an attractive sight with its flamboyant

design.Fairy Hillis said to be named for the fairiesand genies that were believed to occupy itwhen the Sufi saint Badar Shah first cameto Chittagong. Legend says that he made anumber of requests to the fairies before theywould allow him to build a place of worship.Its behind the main post office and NewMarket climb the path leading off JubileeRd just north of the pedestrian bridge near

New Market. Ask directions for the High Court,the building on top of the hill Fairy Hill wasthe common name during the Raj era and israpidly being forgotten.

Atop DC Hillis the district commissionersresidence, but the surrounding area is opento the public. It is a pleasant place with manyold trees.

The tear-inducing WWII Memorial Cemeterycontains the graves of hundreds of soldiers

from both Allied and Japanese forces whodied on the Burma front. Most are inscribedwith simple and powerful epitaphs of lossand love. The cemetery is maintained by theCommonwealth War Graves Commission.

MODERN CITY

There is little to see in Agrabad, the mod-ern commercial section. The interestingEthnological Museum (h9am-1pm & 1.30-4pm Mon-

Wed, 9am-noon Thu)has displays on Bangladeshstribal people. Unfortunately, it isnt alwaysopen when it should be. Some of the exhibitsare looking a bit tattered, but it covers all themajor tribal groups of the nearby ChittagongHill Tracts.

The museums assumption that these cul-tures are doomed is depressing, though sadly,

probably true.

QADAM MUBARAK MOSQUE

Built in 1719 in the Rahmatganj area, the late-Mughal Qadam Mubarak Mosque derives its namefrom a slab that bears an impression of theProphets foot (mubarak).

PAHARTALI LAKE

Also known as Foys Lake, this area has boat-

ing facilities and is a popular picnic spot;things get hectic on weekends. Early in themorning is a nice time to visit, and on a coolday, walking is pleasant in the denuded hillsaround the lake. There is a zoo here, but itsa wretched place. A high hill near the lakesedge affords grand views of Chittagong andthe Bay of Bengal. You can get to the lake byrickshaw (Tk 15) or tempo (auto-rickshaw,Tk 5) from the junction of CDA Ave and

Zakir Hossain Rd.

KARNAPHULI RIVER

An unusual adventure is to head out ontothe Karnaphuli River, close to the airport,where youll be blown away by the massivenumber of equally massive ships riding atanchor in this deep-water channel. To gethere take a baby taxi (mini auto-rickshaw;with bargaining you might get it down to Tk

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EATING

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INFORMATION Azad.................................(see 16)

B3 Bus Station..........................

United....................................(see 24)Modapur Bus Station................ C1Kadamtale Bus Station.............. B4GMG Airlines............................ A5GMG Airlines............................. B1

Cinema PalaceBRTC Bus Station...................... B4BIWTC Boat Terminal................ B5Bardarhat Bus Station................ D1

Well Food Centre...................... B2

Sayeman................................... B2New Madina............................. C4Hotel Zaman............................. B2Hotel Sonali............................(see 30)

Hotel & Restaurant

Crystal Lounge & Restaurant..... B2Bonanza Food Plus.................... B1

Silver Inn Hotel.......................(see 19)Peninsula Chittagong................ B2Meridian Hotel.......................... B2Hotel Sylhet Super.................... B4Hotel Park Residential............... B2Hotel Miskha............................ C4Hotel Golden Inn...................... B4Hotel Al-Faisal International...... B3Grand Park Hotel...................... B2

Asian SR Hotel.......................... B4

Zia Memorial Museum.............. B3WWII Memorial Cemetery........ C2Shahi Jama-e-Masjid................. C3

Qadam Mubarak Mosque........ C2Marine Fisheries Academy......(see 11)High Court..............................(see 10)Fish Harbour & Market............. C5Fairy Hill................................... C4Ethnological Museum................. A4DC Hill........................................ C3Chilla of Badar Shah................... C3Chandanpura Mosque................ C3

ATM...................................(see 24)Standard Chartered Bank

Standard Chartered Bank............ C4Standard Chartered Bank............ C4Main Post Office........................ C4HSBC.......................................... A4Dot.com....................................... B2

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I T TA G O N G D I V I S I O N C h i t t a g o n g

Meridian Hotel (%654 000; [email protected]; 1367 CDA Ave; s/d from Tk 2618/2723)Firstly,this isnt a part of the chain you know onlytoo well. However, despite the blatant copy-right issue, this is a decent top-end option

with low prices and large, character infusedrooms of a certain old-world charm. Thebathrooms are some of the best in Bangladeshand the curtains so kitsch that you cannothelp but grow fond of them. The staff are

very friendly, the furniture of a quality yourarely find today but the complimentarybreakfast is very stingy.

Peninsula Chittagong (%285 0860/9; www.peninsulactg.com; 486 CDA Ave; r from US$130;ai)Touted as

the best business-class hotel in Chittagongits a carbon copy of every other IKEA-classbusiness hotel on the planet. This meanshigh levels of peace, comfort and service butless character than a blank piece of paper.The highlight, literally, is the wonderful lofty

views over the city from the massive bed-room windows. It has a plethora of Asian andcontinental restaurants, rooftop pool (non-guests Tk 300) and internet in all rooms.

EatingJubilee Rd is one of the best cheap restaurantareas, whilst CDA Ave is the place to go formore upmarket eating.

New Madina (Jubilee Rd; mains Tk 30-40) Fullof character, this is the friendliest andtastiest of several similar hole-in-the-wallestablishments.

Hotel & Restaurant Azad (Station Rd; mains Tk 40)

There are many rock-bottom-price eatingestablishments on Station Rd, but this is oneof the cleaner and brighter places. Biryani isthe speciality.

Hotel Sonali(GEC Circle; meals from Tk 40)Hordes oflocal students and workers enjoy the chanceto eat for next to nothing in a place that,with its funky paint job and terrace seating,inspires lingering meals and lasting conver-sations. A rare find indeed in the world of

cheap restaurants.Well Food Centre (GEC Circle; meals Tk 30-120) A

modern complex of different restaurants inan airport-sterile environment. The Westernmeals arent really anything of the sortbut the downstairs snacks are perfect for alight lunch.

Hotel Zaman (GEC Circle; mains Tk 100-150) Ignorethe misleading name; this isnt a place tosleep but rather a place to indulge in sen-

sational Bangladeshi food in a classy butcomfortable atmosphere.

There are two Sayeman(CDA Ave; meals Tk 150-200)restaurants across the road from each other.One specialises in rich Mughali cuisine, the

other in fiery Thai dishes.The Crystal Lounge & Restaurant (%886 688;

805 CDA Ave; mains Tk 170-200, snacks Tk 120) Sleek,modern and fashionable, you will feel likeyoure in the city when you eat here. Mealsare mainly Western based with lots of pastaand steaks, but there are also filling sand-wiches, delicious fruit smoothies and someThai treats.

Bonanza Food Plus (%652 079; 1692 CDA Ave;

mains from TK 200;a)You certainly wont getsloppy dhal and stringy chicken at this so-phisticated but well-priced restaurant. Manyconsider it to be the finest eating establish-ment in the city and it is, without doubt, theplace to experience everything good aboutBangladeshi food.

Getting There & AwayThe DhakaChittagong Hwy is probably the

busiest, and scariest, highway to hell in thecountry and is prone to bumper-to-bumpertraffic jams (though at least this slows every-one down). At all costs avoid travelling alongit at night. Taking the train to Dhaka is farless nerve-racking.

AIR

GMG Airlines(%655 659; gmgairlines.com; CDA Ave)hasfour or five flights a day to/from Dhaka (Tk

4220, 45 minutes) and to Coxs Bazar (Tk3450, 30 minutes) on Tuesday, Thursday andSaturday.

United Airways (%650 7671; www.uabdl.com; CDAAve)has two to four flights daily to Dhaka (Tk3945), as well as flights to Coxs Bazar (departs9.45am Sunday and Thursday).

Best Air, with offices at the airport, also hasdaily flights between Chittagong and Dhakafor Tk 3390.

It has recently become possible to flyto select international destinations fromChittagong. GMG has flights to Bangkokfor US$195.

BOAT

The Bangladesh Inland Waterway TransportCorporation (BIWTC) terminal is near the end ofSadarghat Rd, a few hundred metres to thewest along the river bank. The administration

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office is clearly marked in English, but tick-ets are sold from a nondescript building justbefore the office. Book early if you want a1st-class cabin.

Launches go to Barisal (1st/2nd/deck

class Tk 850/560/120, 18 hours, departs 9amMonday). The same boat stops at HatiyaIsland and Sandwip Island.

BUS

The largest bus station is Bardarhat(Coxs BazarRd),4km north of the city centre. To get there,take a local bus (Tk 5) or rickshaw (Tk 10)from Nur Ahmed Rd. From here, busesleave for Coxs Bazar (Tk 120, four hours)

and Bandarban (Tk 50, three hours) every 15minutes between 6am and 6pm.

Buses leave from Modapur bus station(CDA Ave)for Rangamati (Tk 75 to Tk 80, luxury bus Tk130, 2 hours) and Kaptai (Tk 70, two hours,half-hourly 7am to 7pm).

Most Dhaka-bound private bus companiesoperate out of the old BRTC bus station(Station Rd).There are air-con chair coaches to Dhaka (Tk450 to Tk 600, five to six hours).

Luxury buses to Coxs Bazar (Tk 250, fourhours, every half hour between 5.30am and7.30pm) and Sylhet (Tk 650, evening onlydepartures) leave from the Cinema Palace busstation(Nur Ahmed Rd).

TRAIN

The four intercity (IC) trains a day to Dhaka(1st/sulob class Tk 290/125; six hours; de-part 7am, 7.15am, 2.30pm and 11pm) go

through Comilla (1st/sulobclass Tk 140/60).Theres a sleeper option (Tk 660) on nighttrains. Tickets should be booked two or threedays in advance.Theres an IC train to Sylhet(1st/sulobclass Tk 490/190, 10 hours, departs9pm).

Getting AroundTO/FROM THE AIRPORT

There isnt always a bus to meet incom-

ing flights and the airport is a long wayout from town baby taxis cost at least Tk150. You could try catching a bus to NewMarket (Tk 10) at the T-junction, 500m fromthe airport.

LOCAL TRANSPORT

Rickshaws and baby taxis are plentiful, andcost about the same as in Dhaka. Tempos andbuses are cheaper, but are cramped and can be

frustrating if you dont speak Bengali routesarent easy to decipher.

AROUND CHITTAGONGA few sites around Chittagong are challenging

to get to but worth the effort.

ShakpuraThis small village, 24km south of the city,has Buddhist and Hindu temples. The NindamKanon Templeis a meditation centre.

Buses to Shakpura (Tk 25, eight daily) leavefrom Bardarhat bus station in Chittagong.

Ship-Breaking Yards

Along the shore north of Chittagong, everykind of ocean-going vessel, from super tankersto tugboats, is dismantled all with manuallabour. At any one time there can be 30 shipsbeached on the shoreline between the townsof Bhatiara and Sitakunda. Armies of workersuse blowtorches, sledgehammers and plainbrute force to tear them apart. Its such a bi-zarre sight that the ship-breaking yards havebecome a popular setting in Bangladeshi mov-

ies, typically as bad-guy hang-outs.Actually getting to visit the yards is virtuallyimpossible nowadays, and with every nega-tive expos in the Western media it becomesharder still (see boxed text, below). Site super-

visors are very reticent to let anyone wanderaround, particularly with a camera.

An easier and surprisingly impressiveway of seeing the yards is from the air.Most DhakaChittagong flights pass rightover the top of the yards a few momentsbefore landing.

SitakundaAbout 36km north of Chittagong, this sleepytown has one attraction the historic HinduChandranath Temple. There are great viewsfrom the top, which can be a real treat inflat Bangladesh. Unless you have a particularinterest in Hindu temples and dont mind an

SHIPSHAPE?

Ship-breaking is a controversial industry.

Greenpeace, among other organisations,

says it can threaten public health, the en-

vironment, and the rights and lives of work-

ers. For more information on Greenpeaces

stance on Chittagongs ship-breaking yards,

visit www.greenpeaceweb.org/shipbreak/.

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hours uphill climb, its only really worth visit-ing during the Shiva Chaturdasi Festival, held for10 days in February and attracting thousandsof Hindu pilgrims.

To get there, take a bus for Feni (Tk 25, 45

minutes) from the Kadamtale bus station inChittagong (Map p124).

CHITTAGONG HILL TRACTSDecidedly untypical of Bangladesh topog-raphy and culture, the 13,180 sq km of theHill Tracts comprises a mass of hills, ravinesand cliffs covered with dense jungle, bamboo,creepers and shrubs.

About half the tribal population are

Chakma; the remainder are mostly Marma(who represent about a third of the tribal pop-ulation) and Tripura. Among the many muchsmaller groups, the Mru (called Murung byBangladeshis) stand out as the most ancientinhabitants of the area.

The culture and lifestyle of the Adivasis(tribal people) are very different from that ofthe Bangladeshi farmers of the plains. Sometribes are matriarchal, and all have similar

housing made entirely of bamboo and cov-ered by thatched roofs of dried leaves. In mostother respects, the tribes are quite different,each having its own distinctive rites, rituals,dialect and dress, eg Chakma women wearindigo-and-red striped sarongs.

The women are particularly skilled in mak-ing handicrafts, while some of the men stilltake pride in hunting with bows and arrows.

The area, full of the flavours of Burma,

is utterly fascinating and very beauti-ful. It also offers a chance to stretch thelegs with some exciting hiking betweentribal communities.

HistoryUnder the British, the Hill Tracts gained spe-cial status and only Adivasis could own landthere, but the Pakistani government abol-ished the special status of the Hill Tracts as

a tribal area in 1964. The construction ofthe Kaptai Lake for hydroelectricity in 1960was an earlier blow, submerging 40% of theland used by the Adivasis for cultivation, anddisplacing 100,000 people. The land providedfor resettlement was not sufficient and manytribal people became refugees in neighbouringnortheastern India.

During the Liberation War, the thenChakma king sided with the Pakistanis, so

when independence came, the Adivasis pleafor special status fell on deaf ears. The Chakmaking left for Pakistan and later became that

countrys ambassador to Argentina.Meanwhile, more and more Bengalis were

migrating into the area, usurping the land. In1973 the Adivasis initiated an insurgency. Tocounter it, the government, in 1979, startedissuing permits to landless Bengalis to settlethere, with title to tribal land. This practicecontinued for six years and resulted in a massmigration of approximately 400,000 peopleinto the area almost as many as all the tribal

groups combined. Countless human-rightsabuses occurred as the army tried to put downthe revolt.

From 1973 until 1997 the Hill Tracts areawas the scene of a guerrilla war between theBangladeshi army and the Shanti Bahinirebels. The troubles stemmed from the cul-tural clash between the tribal groups and theplains people.

Sheikh Hasinas government cemented an

internationally acclaimed peace accord inDecember 1997 with tribal leader JyotirindriyoBodhipriya (Shantu) Larma. Rebel fighterswere given land, Tk 50,000 and a range ofother benefits in return for handing in theirweapons. The peace deal handed much of theadministration of Khagrachhari, Rangamatiand Bandarban districts to a regional council.The struggle to have the accord fully hon-oured continues today.

InformationWhether a permit is required to visit theHill Tracts can change from month tomonth. At the time of writing, permits wereabsolutely required.

To obtain a permit, fax your details to thedistrict commissioner (DC) of the districtyou intend to visit three days before youenter the region (see p130 for fax numbers).

WARNING

The safety situation in the Chittagong Hill

Tracts has improved enormously over the

past few years and trips to both Bandarban

and Rangamati will almost certainly be

problem free. However, this doesnt mean

everything is roses and you should certainly

only consider exploring remoter parts of the

region with a reputable tour operator.

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The DC should forward your details to therelevant foreigner checkpoints, but thisdoesnt always happen. You must provideyour name, native country, passport number,district you intend to visit, purpose of visit,duration of stay, occupation, mode of trans-port, probable date of visit, expected date ofreturn and signature.

It is a good idea to type your details andkeep the original on your person it will look

far more official to checkpoint police than ahandwritten application. Also try to procuresome sort of receipt to show that you havefaxed the information in good time. Its alsosensible to fax the same details to the relevantsuperintendent of police. None of this guar-antees that youll be allowed to visit, but itwill increase your chances.

Finally, always carry numerous photocop-ies of your permit with you to give out like

sweets at the numerous checkpoints.Most people book accommodation in ad-vance through a tour operator who then sortout all the paper work for you, but even thenit still takes at least three days to complete allthe formalities.

ToursThe following companies operate reli-able and interesting tours to the Chittagong

Hill Tracts.Bengal Tours (Map p62;%02-882 0716; www.bengaltours.com; House 66, Rd 10, Block D, Banani) In Dhaka.Guide Tours(Map p62;%02-988 6983; www.guidetours.com; Darpan Complex, 1st fl, Gulshan CircleII, Gulshan) In Dhaka. In addition to tours, it has alsorecently opened the Hillside Resort (p135), 4km fromBandarban.Unique Tours & Travels(%02-988 5116; [email protected]; 51B Kemal Ataturk Ave, Banani, Dhaka)

Rangamati%0351

The elongated village of Rangamati, 77kmeast of Chittagong, is beautifully situatedover a series of islands in Kaptai Lake and

is, alongside Coxs Bazar, the place everyBangladeshi wants to take their summerholidays. The town was originally laid outas an administrative centre and modern-dayhill station in the 1960s, after the dammingof the Karnaphuli River and though it hasgrown to encompass a large area it hasnt lostits small town vibe. Even so the real charmof Rangamati lies not in the town itself butrather in the lush, undulating and verdant

surrounding countryside.The vast majority of Adivasis here are

Chakma, and much of their ancestral landis flooded by the lake. The population ofthe town is, however, overwhelminglyBangladeshi.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Rangamati village extends for about 7kmfrom the army checkpoint and Tribal

Cultural Institute Museum to the ParjatanMotel. The main road passes banks, the fishmarket and Hotel Sufia before it crosses along causeway, at the end of which is a trafficcircle (roundabout). The road to the rightleads to the Parjatan Motel (after cross-ing a steel bridge), while the road to theleft leads to the main bazar and the mainlaunch ghat (steps or landing).

Despite the presence of a couple of banks

and many Bangladeshi tourists, it is impos-sible to change money in Rangamati evencash will draw blank looks, and as for anATM

There is also no internet service in town,nor, somewhat incredibly, any reliable mobilephone reception.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

The newly constructed Tribal Cultural Institute

Museum (Manik Charri Rd; admission Tk 10;h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) is one of the better museums inBangladesh with well thought out displayson the tribes of the Hill Tracts, includingcostumes, bamboo flutes, coins, silver-and-ivory necklaces and a tiger trap its hard toimagine what they actually do with a large,angry tiger once they get one in such a flimsywooden trap! There is also a map showingwhere the different tribes live.

DISTRICT COMMISSIONER FAXNUMBERS

BandarbanDistrict commissioner 0361-62509

KhagrachhariDistrict commissioner 0371-61674

Superintendent of police 0371-61755

RangamatiDistrict commissioner 0351-63020

Superintendent of police 0351-63127

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The institute is opposite the army check-point as you enter town from the directionof Chittagong.

There are several modern Buddhist viharas(monasteries) in and around the town. The

biggest and busiest is the Bana Vihara, on aheadland at the northern end of town. In oneopen-walled hall there are elaborate thronesfor the head abbot, in the form of a Nagaserpent. The parkland in which the temple isset is a popular place for a walk and there area number of stalls selling devotional items andcandles to the numerous passing pilgrims.While walking around the parkland keep aneye peeled for the unusual statue of the starv-

ing Buddha, the multistorey temple and thenumerous pesky monkeys!

The Chakma king has his rajbari (pal-ace) on a neighbouring island. The rajbariis not open to visitors but the Raja Viharaonthe same island has a large bronze statue ofShakyamuni (the historical Buddha) overseenby a small and friendly monastic community.The island is reached by small launches thatleave from the mainland just opposite the

island.

A boat tripon Kaptai Lake, the countryslargest artificial lake, with stops at tribal vil-lages along the way, is the undisputed high-light of a visit to Rangamati. The lake is ringedwith banana plantations and thinning patches

of tropical and semi-evergreen forests. Thelevel of the lake varies considerably through-out the year. When it starts to fall in March,the emerging land is farmed before the lakerises again in the monsoon season.

While the lake itself is beautiful, thevillages youll see around it make the tripspecial. Bring binoculars for bird-watching(which is excellent) and better viewing ofsome of the thatched villages and fishing

boats. Tourist boats usually stop at Chakmavillages, allowing you to see traditional bam-boo houses and small Buddhist shrines madeof bamboo.

There are three main places from whichto hire a boat: across the hanging bridgenear Parjatan Motel; at the main ghat; andat Tobulchuri ghat. The latter is probably thebest, while the first is the most expensive. Anhour in one of the rainbow splashed boats

should cost around Tk 200 split between a

1

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(50km)To Chittagong

AreaRangamati

New

BostiAsam

BostiPuran

ViharaBana

HillJhagra

WapdaSwarnahla

Jaliapara

Para

ParaMiahzi

(Khan Sama) ParaBilai Chhari

ParaKhappya

Karbari ParaRamniai Mohan

ParaJulluika

PaharHanumania

Para

Tonchangya

Rangapani

Bhed Bedi

Garjantila

Rajbari

ChakmaparaKatachhari

Nayadampara

Fish MarketGroundSports

Market

New

Checkpoint

Causeway

Army

Bridge

GhatLaunch

Park

LakeKaptai

LakeKaptai

hariRd

ChMa

nik

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9

8

5

3

2

6

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Buses to Chittagong..................... C2Bus Station................................... C1

Mayer Doa Restaurant...............(see 13)Green Restaurant......................... C1Girishova Restaurant.................... B2Caf Link...................................... B2

Parjatan Motel.............................. B3Hotel Sufia.................................... B2Hotel Lake View........................... C2Hotel Green Castle....................... C2Hotel Golden Hill.......................... C1

Tribal Cultural Institute Museum.... A1Tobolchuri Ghat............................. B2Raja Vihara..................................... B1Fish Market.................................... B2Boats for Hire................................. B3Bana Vihara.................................... B1

Sonali Bank..................................... B1

Janata Bank.................................... B2Agrani Bank.................................... B1

RANGAMATI 0 1 km0 0.5 miles

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small group (bigger groups should expect topay a little more).

The boat trips are generally very well or-ganised and, if you dont really know whereyou want to go, the boatmen will have their

own hour, two-hour, half day and full-daylong tours. In fact just clambering on boardand letting them make all the decisions isnt abad idea as almost anywhere they take you willturn out to be both interesting and beautiful.

Foreigners are supposed to have armedpolice guards for any trip out onto the lake.In practise, if you only want to go for an hoursunset jaunt, most boatmen will take you with-out the requisite escort. Nobody really seems to

know why you still need a man with a machinegun watching over you (those egrets can bemighty vicious sometimes) and their presencewont exactly endear you to the inhabitants ofany village you stop at. One thing to keep inmind if youre thinking of trying to sneak outonto the lake without a guard is that thoughyou are unlikely to get into trouble for doingso, your boatman may be reprimanded.

A good place to visit, not far from

Rangamati, is the Buddhist monasteryJawnasouk Mountain Vihara, just across the lake.A trip out to Kaptai is a longer and very re-warding day trip, while another interesting

journey is through the narrow, steep-sidedwaterway that leads into the lakes upperbasin, where you can also swim.

SLEEPING

Considering that Rangamati is one of

Bangladeshs tourist hot spots, its somethingof a surprise to discover that the accommoda-tion and eating scene is generally fairly direand almost universally overpriced.

Hotel Golden Hill (%62146; s/d Tk 150-200)Gorgeous lake views and the double rooms arepretty healthy. Single rooms have a toilet butyoull need to wash in the lake! Friendliest ofthe budget hotels by far. The staff can organiseboat trips for you.

Hotel Lake View (%62063; s/d Tk 200/400) Thebest aspect of this budget hotel are the leg-endry lake views. You could spend hours sit-ting on the balcony watching life unfold onthe waters below. This is good news, becauseyou certainly wouldnt want to spend hourssitting in the rooms, which are little more thanairless and non-too clean cells. Single womenwont feel comfortable here. Its also knownas Hotel Al-Amin.

Hotel Sufia(%62145; s/d Tk 400/600, ste Tk 1500/2000)A sensible option on the main road, just be-fore the causeway. The nonair-con roomsare undoubtedly the ones to go for if the lackof hot water doesnt bother you. Some rooms

have balconies overlooking a small portion ofthe lake. The suites place size above quality,but are good for families.

Hotel Green Castle(%61200; s with/without air-conTk 750/350, d Tk 1000/700)Despite the name thishotel is neither green nor a castle, but it doeshave good lake views. Once again room sizetakes precedent over room quality. Cheaperrooms have squat toilets and cramped bath-rooms. In most towns this would be consid-

ered a non-descript hotel, but in Rangamatiit holds its own.

Peda Ting Ting (%62082; cottages Tk 1000) Thisplace, hidden on a secluded island, is a 20-minute boat ride from town. Foreigners aresupposed to have a police escort to visit thisindigenous-run venture, which makes stayingat its cottages a little problematic a shamebecause this would be an idyllic place to wilea way a few days. Instead do what everyone

else does and stop by for lunch or a drink at itsexcellent restaurant (mains Tk 180), servingtraditional indigenous fare.

Parjatan Motel (%63126; d with/without air-conTk 1200/600, 4-/8-bed cottage Tk 1000/1500) Location,location, location we all know thats whatsells and the location of this Parjatan ven-ture, overlooking a quiet hyacinth-cloggedbackwater of the lake, is simply priceless. Butthe management havent allowed this to let

them rest on their laurels and what theyvegot going on here is one of the better Parjatanestablishments. Rooms are quaint and cleanand some come with balconies overlookingthe lake. The electricity supply is as erratic asthe hot water. Book in advance.

EATING

Around the main ghat is a gaggle of cheaprestaurants selling the usual stuff for the

usual prices.Mayer Doa Restaurant (meals Tk 30-50)Next tothe Hotel Sufia, the menu of the Mayer Doaadvertises simple Bangladeshi dishes, butthe tastes the cooks produce are far fromsimple. The chefs recommend the fish (Tk40). The red-and-green painted sign is inBengali only.

Green Restaurant (mains Tk 60-80) A new andincreasingly well-regarded Bangladeshi res-

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taurant that sticks to hygiene laws, locatednext to the Hotel Golden Hill.

Caf Link(%63433; Masjid Market, Banarupa; mains Tk130)A cosy and intimate Chinese restaurant onthe first-floor of a shopping centre (look out

for the flashing fairy lights). There are onlyabout a dozen tables and the service is fastand friendly. It also has a few lighter snackssuch as sandwiches, and will box meals up totake away for picnic lunches.

You cant beat the view at GirishovaRestaurant, which is literally floating on thelake surface and is perfect for a sunset tea ora light meal. The sign is in Bengali only butits impossible to miss.

Of the hotel restaurants, the one at theParjatan(%63126; mains Tk 150) is easily the bestand its excellent curries are worth droppingby for even if you arent staying there.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Buses from Chittagong leave for Rangamati(Tk 75 to Tk 80, 2 hours) periodically fromModapur bus station (p128). Youll pass acouple of security checkpoints en route, where

you are called off to fill out formalities andprove you have applied for a permit.

From Rangamati, buses for Chittagongleave from outside Hotel Green Castlethroughout the day from around 7am. Busesalso leave from the more manic bus stationopposite the Golden Hill Hotel. There is nodirect route to Kaptai; youll have to go backto Chittagong to catch a bus from there.

There are also public launches leaving

Rangamati for the town of Kaptai, but checkthe schedule carefully as the situation changesfrequently. The trip takes 1 hours (fourhours return). There is also a speedboat thatdoes the round-trip in two hours. These boatsleave from the main launch ghat.

GETTING AROUND

Due to its hilly topography, Rangamati is arare example of a Bangladeshi town without

rickshaws. Baby taxis operate as share taxis(five or six passengers); the cost is usuallyTk 30 divided by the number of passengers,regardless of where youre going. The otheroption is to jump on a passing bus.

KaptaiIt takes a special sort of person to find some-thing positive to say about Kaptai, 64km eastof Chittagong. You could wax lyrical about

its gorgeous lakeside setting or proffer po-etic praise about its mountainous backdrop,but let us not kid ourselves here. The scenerymight be breathtaking, but Kaptai itself is theproverbial hellhole. In some dim and distant

age, this former hunting reserve must havebeen idyllic but nowadays its a smoky, dirtyport town full of grim-lipped soldiers, noisytrucks spitting out ice-cap melting quantitiesof fumes and, almost certainly, lots of ladiesof ill-repute out to please said soldiers andtruckers. (OK, if there arent lots of these kindof girls then there certainly should be.)

On a positive note Kaptai ghat looks quitepicturesque at night. The town is known for

its large dam and hydroelectricity plant butdont even think about trying to take picturesof them.

Kaptai is a flat town with one main streetwhere youll find all the (highly basic) eateries,hotels, boarding houses, teahouses and gen-eral stores. At the dam wall theres a crane thatlifts stacks of bamboo, ferried in incredible-length rafts across the lake, over and into theKarnaphuli River, from where they float down

to Chittagong.So why, if its so grim, should you go there?Simply, it makes a good goal for a longerboat trip from Rangamati, but try and leaveRangamati in the morning, allowing youample time to amble down the waterwaysand return to Rangamati by nightfall.

SLEEPING

There is a government circuit house in Kaptai.

As always youll need permission from the dis-trict commissioner to stay; his office is nearby.Otherwise, there are some very basic boardinghouses, most of which are dirty and cheap.


Unless you have a private vehicle, you cannottravel here straight from Rangamati; insteadyoull have to head back to Chittagong for thebus. Direct buses to Kaptai (Tk 30) leave from

Chittagongs Modapur bus station throughoutthe day.You might also be able to get a launch from

Rangamati, but check it out carefully as thesituation changes frequently.

ChitmorongThe Buddhist hamlet of Chitmorong, approxi-mately 4km from Kaptai on the ChittagongRd, is draped in peace and spirituality. Built

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around a large modern Buddhist monasteryand a much older, wooden monastery, thevillage is a centre for the Marma tribe, most ofwhom have resisted the recent push of Islamand Christianity and stuck to their Buddhist

beliefs. Very few foreigners visit so the recep-tion is certain to be warm and a monk is likelyto take you gently by the hand and lead youaround the monastery grounds. When youreinside the main monastery look out for themontage of snaps from the monks holidaysin Sri Lanka and Malaysia. You should leave asmall donation at the monastery. The Buddhistwater festivalis held here around mid-April.

There is nowhere to stay in the village but

down by the boat ghat there are a couple oflittle wooden shacks selling clean and tastymeals (in fact Chitmorong makes a betterlunch stop than Kaptai).

Chitmorong is on the opposite side ofthe lake from the KaptaiChittagong roadand youll need to hop into one of the dou-ble oar row boats (Tk 2) to access the vil-lage. Actually finding the boat ghat on theKaptaiChittagong road is a little hard ask

all passers-by and look out for the paintedfence posts and a couple of tea stalls.

BandarbanPut simply there is no better place in which toexperience the magic of the Hill Tracts than inthe bolshy small town of Bandarban, which lieson the Sangu River, 92km from Chittagong.The river is the centre of local life: bamboo raftsup to 500m long, steered by a single solitary

boatman, drift leisurely downstream, whilecountry boats make slow trips to neighbour-ing villages. Most inhabitants belong to theBuddhist Marma tribe. The town itself, whichhas a couple of interesting sights, isnt overlyattractive, but the surrounding countryside issome of the finest in Bangladesh and offersone of the few opportunities to really escapethe masses. Instead of the honking of hornsand awe-struck stares of the masses youll have

nothing much to listen to but birdsong and theonly things likely to be fluttering about you willbe bright, floppy winged butterflies. All up thisis not a town to rush through in a hurry.

At the checkpoint before coming into town,officials may request that you call upon thedistrict commissioner. His office is just aroundthe corner from the Hotel Purabi.

There is an internet caf (per hr Tk 50) underHotel Greenhill.

SIGHTS

The small Tribal Cultural Institutehas a museumand library. Opening hours are vague but thecurator is very knowledgeable. The museumspecialises in tribal costumes and jewellery

and is better than many big town museums.Most of the information labels are in English.The Bohmong Rajbari is the residence of theBohmong king.

Perched on a hill top a few kilometres out oftown is a large glowing, golden Buddhist stupa(ask for the Bala Gata). Its a Burmese blastthrough and through and is one of the mostimpressive stupas in the country. When enter-ing you should leave your shoes outside.

There is a tribal bazar (hWed & Sun), wheretrading is conducted in Marma ratherthan Bengali.

ACTIVITIES

Bandarban is the centre of Bangladeshsfledgling hiking industry. With current per-mit restrictions it would probably be fairer todescribe this activity as gentle walking ratherthan hiking, and for the casual visitor a half-

day walk is about the longest hike you canpresently engage in. Even so hiking aroundthe breathtaking Bandarban countryside and

visiting little known traditional tribal villageswill be one of the highlights of a visit to thishighlight-studded country.

One drawback with all these walks is thatyou will be required to take an armed policeescort. The government says that this is foryour own safety and Bengalis talk about ter-

rible, but unspecified, dangers that await anyforeigner wandering off alone.Dangers aside, the police escorts are nor-

mally highly reluctant to actually put onefoot in front of the other and walk anywhereand, on arrival in a village, having a coupleof armed men with you doesnt exactly en-courage much cultural interaction! On topof all this the police will then expect a tipfor their services we would suggest you

refrain from paying and hopefully theylleventually give up on accompanying for-eigners. If you are polite but persistent, andtake a known local guide from the HillsideResort (see opposite) then you might be ableto get away without taking an escort on theshorter walks. One highly recommended,knowledgeable and English-speaking guideis Lallim Bawm, who also works as a waiterat the Hillside Resort.

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A couple of the easiest and most convenienthikes are listed here.

Shailapropat Waterfall & BawmVillage Hike

This very painless hike is entirely along a quiet,surfaced road and is the most popular hikewith Bangladeshis, though thats only becausethey can complete it while sat in a nice shinycar! The walk itself, which takes about an hourin either direction, is hilly and, at times, quitesteep, but its far nicer than the goal, which isa small waterfall carpeted in litter. Very closeto the waterfall is the Bawm tribal village ofFaruk Para, where you can buy some beautiful

baskets, woven fish traps and rugs.

Sangu River HikeA harder and more interesting hike, whichcan also be combined with a boat ride, is tothe Sangu River which you can see snakingthrough the fertile valley below the HillsideResort. Once at the river you can take acountry boat down to Bandarban town fromwhere its a hard two-hour climb back to the

resort. With a bit of luck youll see some ofthe bamboo rafts hundreds of metres longdrifting down river. It is also possible to swimin secluded corners of the river.

Haatibandha Village HikeMaybe the most interesting short walk,which takes about an hour in either direc-tion, is this one to the Tripura tribal villageof Haatibandha. Much of the route involves

following steep, muddy tracks which can bevery slippery after rain. Entering the village forthe first time is like entering a new country all around you are rounded Burmese facesand with luck you will meet women deckedout in hundreds of bead necklaces, banglesthat coil serpent-like around their arms, andstrange earrings that look more like bolts andstretch out the wearers ear lobes. Very fewpeople make it to this village and its essential

that you obtain the permission of the villageheadman to be there and remember to treadcarefully with your photos.

Longer Hikes & ExcursionsWith prior arrangement, and the security situ-ation allowing, its often possible to arrangehighly adventurous hikes and excursions fur-ther afield, including one to Chimbuk Hill, oneof the highest points in the country, and the

surrounding Murong villages. An even morechallenging expedition is the overnight trip tothe stunning Bogra Lake. This trip involves atwo-hour jeep ride, a boat journey and then afive-hour hike. You will stay the night in for-

gotten tribal villages. At the time of research thebiggest draw of all, the hike to the summit of MtKeokradang which at 1230m is as high as youcan go in Bangladesh is sadly forbidden, butwith the slowly improving security situationthis may change. For any of these longer hikesit is essential to arrange everything through anestablished tour operator such as Guide Tours(p130) or Bengal Tours (p130).

SLEEPING & EATINGHillside Resort(Milonchhori;%01199 275691; ChimbukRd; dm Tk 150, basic s/d/q cottages from Tk 500/800/1000,luxury s/d/tr cottages Tk 750/1200/1450)Thrown hap-hazardly across a steep jungle-smotheredhillside, this brilliant Guide Toursrun re-sort, 4km and a Tk 120 baby taxi ride fromBandarban, has a wide array of cottages builtof authentic bounce-as-you-walk-bambooand is the best place to stay. None of the

accommodation can be described as luxuri-ous, though there are hot water showers, butit blends in with the vibe of the area per-fectly. A lullaby of jungle noises will sendyou peacefully to sleep (though youre in fora rude awakening when a squirrel or monkeyleaps onto your cottage roof in the middleof the night!). The service is polished andprofessional without being formal and therestaurant (mains Tk 150) whips up the finest

cuisine in all the Hill Tracts. Its worth tryingto avoid Friday, Saturday and holidays whenhalf of Chittagong descends on the place.Book ahead through Guide Tours Dhaka of-fice (p59), and it will arrange all your permits(including any for Rangamati and other partsof the Hill Tracts).

Otherwise there are some basic places inthe town itself. Hotel Greenhill (s/d Tk 80/150)ison the main intersection, while Hotel Purabi

(s Tk 80-100, d Tk 160) has a friendly manager.Aside from the restaurant at the HillsideResort, eating options are limited; there aresome basic restaurants and teahouseson themain street.


Buses leave from Chittagongs Bardarhat busstation for Bandarban (Tk 50, three hours)throughout the day.

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Purbani Coach Service at the Bandarbanbus station has several buses to Coxs Bazar(Tk 120) per day.

The checkpoints on the way in to Bandarbancan be frustrating, particularly if you have ob-

tained your permit independently of a tourcompany. The bus may even continue withoutyou so it doesnt have to wait the 45 minutesit takes you to convince officials that you haveapplied for a permit.

COXS BAZAR%0341Welcome to beach life, Bangladeshi style.The usual question, Why have you come

here? doesnt get asked because the answeris obvious youve come to be at the sea-side. Bangladeshis adore Coxs Bazar and allacross the country people will ask whetheryou have been. For Bangladeshis the infatu-ation is because Coxs Bazar is so unlike therest of the country, but a foreign visitor, usedto the clean, liberal sands of Spain, Australiaor California, is likely to be far less enam-oured. The beach itself is a lovely, long (very

long!), and surprisingly clean slip of sand,but by no stretch of even the most enthusi-astic imagination can it be described as thenumber one natural wonder of the world,which is exactly how Bangladeshis, throughan online web vote (which you will be askedconstantly to partake in) are promoting it. Theway to get the most out of Coxs Bazar is notto think of it as a beach holiday, but ratherto treat it as a way to relax with middle-class

Bangladeshis at play by just surrendering totheir holiday enthusiasm.

InformationThere is a Dutch-Bangla Bank ATM in thetown centre.Cyber Caf (per hr Tk 25) For internet access.Niloy Cyber Caf(per hr Tk 30) Internet access; on themain road.Post office(Motel Rd) On the edge of the Hotel Shaibal

grounds. Its poorly marked look for the letter boxoutside.

Dangers & AnnoyancesMake no mistake about this foreign womencannot swim or sunbathe in swimsuits andwe dread to think about the levels of harass-ment you would endure if you were to try.Bangladeshi women who swim do so in theirsalwar kameez(long, dress-like tunic worn

over baggy trousers) and youd be very wiseto do the same. Even foreign men are unlikelyto enjoy the experience of swimming here andas for sunbathing, well that is a massive no,no for both sexes.

The northern end of the beach next to theairport may be invitingly quiet, but armedrobberies have occurred here, even in daylight.The entire beach is not safe at night.

Sights & ActivitiesThe main reason to come to Coxs Bazar is forthe beach. The route to the beach, along SeaBeach Rd, can be crowded and dirty, but onceon the beach you will find the sand surpris-

ingly clean. There are plenty of places fromwhere you can rent a sun lounge and umbrella(Tk 5 to Tk 10), and staff will offer securityso you can leave your belongings unattendedwhile you go for a dip. You could also plantyourself in front of a big hotel, where guardswill watch over your gear if you go swimming,and shoo away kids selling shell necklaces.They will also deal with the crowds of gawkers,if they get too intrusive (which they will).

If youre intrigued by the wooden fishingboats chugging along the shore, you can checkthem out from the Bakhali River on the northside of town, where theyre moored. Some ofthe boats look uncannily like pirate ships;and given that piracy is on the rise in theBay of Bengal theres the possibility that theymight be!

The colourful Buddhist Water Festival takesplace here each year (13 to 18 April). And a

gob-smackingly unlikely local surfing compe-tition is held most years in late September/early October. That there are any waves inBangladesh is shock enough to most surfers,that there are any Bangladeshi surfers evenmore so and that they have a competitionis enough to render most surfers silent withsurprise. But that this conservative Muslimnation can actually conjure up enough femalesurfers to include an entire womens division

in the contest is, quite frankly, about the mostextraordinary thing weve ever heard!Aggameda Khyang, a Buddhist monastery at

the eastern end of town, is representative ofBurmese-style architecture. Its distinctive ap-pearance would stand out anywhere, but nes-tled among trees in the middle of Coxs Bazarits all the more fascinating. The main sanctu-ary is built around massive timber columns.The teak flooring adds an air of timelessness to

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0 500 m0 0.3 miles

BuddhistStupas

Parjatan

Lighthouse

DistrictForestry

Office

BeachGuard

ZinukTourist

Market

BazarArea

Kastura Ghat(Ferry Ghat for

the Islands)

CycloneShelter

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Airport

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BurmeseMarket

FishMarket

BakhaliRiver

Ramu Rd

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aBe

achRd

AndersonRd

Hotel Sa

yemanRdM

otel Rd

Airp

ort R

d

New

BeachRd

PoliceStation Rd

(JhawtolaMainRd)

NewC

ircuit H

ouse R

d

Bangabandhu Rd

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INFORMATION

GMG Airlines................................ B2Bus Area....................................... C2

Handicraft Shops.......................... B2

Sea Stone Caf............................ C5Mermaid Caf.............................. C5

Sea Palace Hotel............................ C5

Hotel Panowa................................. C1Hotel New United International...... C1Hotel Coral Reef............................ C5

Maha Thin Daw Gree...................(see 5)Aggameda Khyang........................ D2

Post Office..................................... B2Niloy Cyber Caf............................ B2Dutch-Bangla Bank ATM................ C2Cyber Caf..................................... C2

To HimachariBeach (8km);

Mermaid CafEco-Resort (8km)

To Ramu (14km);Chunati Wildlife

Sanctuary (25km);Teknaf (50km);

Chittagong (80km)

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the place. You may be asked for a donation Tk 10 is reasonable.

Behind Aggameda Khyang is Maha ThinDaw Gree, a vast spread of Buddhist buildingsamid the trees. Almost invisible from the road,

this interesting display of Buddhas was builtin 1790.

SleepingThe whole Coxs Bazar area is now so over-developed that it more resembles a Costa delSol disaster zone than a quaint tropical beachhide-out. In recent years the area of interestto tourists, including all the decent hotels andrestaurants, has crept ever further south away

from the town centre and there is now littlereason to visit the town itself except maybeto change money or use the internet. Youcan often hook up some sweet accommoda-tion deals by booking a package in advancefrom Dhaka.

BUDGET

There are some cheap dives in the town cen-tre around Laldighi Lake, but none are very

appetising.Hotel New United International (%63753;

Bangabandhu Rd; s with shared/attached bathroom Tk 60/100, dTk 100/200)A good-value budget choice if theylllet you in. Its cleaner and brighter than someof its contemporaries, and far enough awayfor you to get some shuteye.

Hotel Panowa(%63282; s/d Tk 120/300)Down alane to the east of Laldighi Lake, the Panowais about the only cheapie that will accept for-

eigners, but its hardly appealing. The cheaperrooms have shared bathrooms. The stunningbougainvillea out front is nice though!

MIDRANGE & TOP END

There are a ridiculous number of mas-sive hotel complexes south of the town inthe hotel-motel zone. All seem somehowcompletely inappropriate for the beach andtheir uncontrolled spawning along the fore-

shore seems to be creating serious beacherosion problems.Mermaid Caf Eco-resort (%017131 60029; r around

Tk 1500) By far the most exciting developmentis this new accommodation venture by thesame people behind the superb Mermaid Caf(right). Due to open for business as this bookhits the shelves, the complex may even liveup to the eco in its name as the resort will bepowered entirely by solar energy and wind

turbines, and built using locally obtained, sus-tainable materials. As well as rooms, it willalso have a spa in which all the oils are madeusing orange skins and other fruit extracts leftover from the fruit juices made at their caf.

Hotel Coral Reef (%64469; [email protected];Motel Rd; r with/without air-con Tk 1950/1200;ai)Ofthe many, many mega hotels, this is one of themore charming (and smaller). The immacu-late rooms make you feel too dirty to be inthem. The staff are helpful and the restaurantreceives positive reviews. A 30% discount offthe above rates is almost standard.

Sea Palace Hotel (%63692; www.hotelseapalaceltd.com; Motel Rd;ai)This monster sized com-

plex is divided into two hotels. The WesternPlaza is the cheaper of the two blocks (roomwith/without air-con Tk 1850/1200, plus 25%tax) and has slightly tiered but otherwise cleanand spacious rooms. You can expect an im-mediate 45% discount on the above rates. TheCrown Plaza (room from Tk 3000, plus 25%tax) is the big boys choice and though thestandard rooms are utterly devoid of per-sonality they do have baths as well as show-

ers (in case youre really dirty). Theyre alsomercifully free of the tacky, fake chandeliersthat blights the reception. After the almostguaranteed discount you will only be payingTk 2000 a room with all taxes, making this acertified bargain.

EatingoMermaid Caf(%017131 60029;h11am-midnight; mains from Tk 200) This Goa-style beach

shack serves what is quite possibly the bestfood in all of Bangladesh. In fact both thefood, the setting and the vibe are so good thatwe have received more positive reports fromtravellers on this one restaurant than every-thing else in Bangladesh put together! Thegorgeous owners have gone out of their wayto ensure that as many of the ingredients aspossible are organically produced (a hardertask than you might imagine as most farmers

are hooked on the delights of pesticides andchemical fertilisers) in the local area. The ef-fort has really paid off even the rice is of aquality you will rarely have tasted before. Inaddition to the excellent food there is also agreat music collection and a small art gallerywith frequently changing exhibitions. Thereare two branches, very close to one and otherand right on the beach. One specialises infresh seafood and the other in pasta and meat

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dishes. It even has an old surfboard or twothat it will rent out.

Sea Stone Caf (%01818 067709; meals from Tk 200)Very similar to the next-door Mermaid in styleand feel, this chilled-out beachside caf knows

exactly what Western tourists want from abeach caf, and the fish dishes are sensational.Equally sensational are the ocean views andthe warm owners.

EntertainmentThe Mermaid Caf organises full-moon par-ties (yes we fell over in surprise too) through-out the season. There may be a little less drinkand drugs going round than at a Thai or Goan

party, but you might be surprised at howmuch fun you can have without these!

ShoppingThere are various handicraft and Burmeseshops near Aggameda Khyang, selling hand-woven fabrics, saris, cheroots and jewellery.Avoid buying any coral or seashell items

very bad karma. There is also the BurmeseMarket east of the town centre.

Getting There & AwayGMG Airlines (%63900; Hotel Sayeman Rd) suppos-edly has flights to/from Dhaka (Tk 4670)everyday and Chittagong (Tk 3450) onTuesday, Thursday and Saturday, but dontrely on this schedule.

Most buses leave from around the LaldighiLake area. Buses to Dhaka (nonair-con Tk400 to Tk 500, luxury Tk 700 to Tk 1000; eight

to 10 hours) generally leave in the evening andarrive early the next morning.Buses to Chittagong (local bus Tk 140,

luxury bus Tk 300, four hours) leave regularlyuntil 4.30pm. Buses to Teknaf (Tk 75, threehours) depart until 6pm.

Getting AroundSome rickshaw drivers are hotel touts; be clearwhere you want to go and how much you want

to pay. On the other hand, not all their hotelrecommendations are bad ones.Bangla Tours, located in the Dream Castle

Hotel in the hotel-motel zone, is a reliablecar-hire firm for trips further afield.

AROUND COXS BAZARThe road from Coxs Bazar, south along theseashore to Teknaf, is hemmed in by gentle,

jungle-covered mole hills, though unfortu-

nately this forest is quickly succumbing todeforestation. Its also a not so temporaryhome to many Rohingya refugees fromMyanmar (Burma).

This forest is home to a wealth of plant and

animal life including a handful of elephants.Bird-watching in the newly formed and easilyvisited Chunati Wildlife Sanctuary (about halfwayalong the ChittagongCoxs Bazar road) is es-pecially rewarding. The park has a number ofeasy-to-follow short walking trails and somelofty look-out towers. If youre very luckyyou might even come to face to face with oneof the wild Asian elephants that hide in thedepths of the park.

BeachesHimachari Beach, just 12km south, is a secludedand pretty spot, but its Inani Beach, that is thereal claim to fame. Considered one of theworlds longest and broadest beaches (180m athigh tide and 300m at low tide), its one of thefew places where you might, and only might,be able to swim and sunbathe in peace.

The people behind the Mermaid Caf have

established an art village down here withthe idea of attracting local and foreign artiststo spend time together working on projects.They are trying to model it on the Aurovillecommune in India. Its open to tourists andthe Mermaid Caf can arrange boat trips fromCoxs Bazar, and lunch.

The government is keen to promote inter-national beach tourism here and there is talkof an interesting, and no doubt controversial,

government-sponsored project taking off atInani Beach. The idea, and it remains justa fairly well-developed idea, is to open anexclusive tourist zone at the southern end ofthe beach. From what we understand, thiswill be open only to Western tourists andricher, more Westernised Bangladeshis. Thegovernment is hoping to make it a little Goa,complete with alcohol and at least two of thethree Ss!

To get to Inani independently, take a busto Teknaf and get off at Court Bazar (30km),a tiny village 2km before Ukhia. From there,you can rickshaw or tempo west to the beach,10km away.

Ramu & LamaparaRamu and Lamapara are noted for theirBuddhist khyangs (temples). Ramu is an un-distinguished town 14km east of Coxs Bazar,

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just off the Chittagong road. Some hills in thisarea are topped with pagodas.

In addition to its khyangs, Ramu, a subsidi-ary capital of the Rakhaing (Arakan) kingdomfor nearly three centuries, is noted for a beauti-

ful monasterycontaining images of the Buddhain bronze, silver and gold, and inlaid with pre-cious and semiprecious stones. Start at the farend of the street of Buddhist buildings, at thelovely U Chitsan Rakhina Temple, and work yourway back towards the town centre.

The beautiful Burmese Bara Khyang atLamapara has the countrys largest bronzeBuddha statue. The temples three woodenbuildings house a number of precious

Buddhist images in silver and gold, set withgems. Lamapara is a palm-shaded villageabout 5km from Ramu, and accessible only byzigzagging paved village paths. Its impossibleto find it on your own, so take a rickshaw or ababy taxi (from Tk 100 to Tk 150 return).

About 2km from Lamapara, at the villageof Ramkot, there are Buddhist and Hindutemplesperched on adjacent forested hills.

Sonadia IslandAccording to legend, a ship laden with goldsunk here centuries ago during an attack byPortuguese pirates and an island formedaround the shipwreck. The tiny, 4.63-sq-kmisland, 7km from Coxs Bazar, was once re-nowned for pink pearls, but more profitablecommercial fishing has seen this traditionslowly fade away. Fishermen set up camp inwinter, and Bangladeshi tourists make the trip

here to buy dried pomfret fish.Sonadia acts as a temporary sanctuary formigrating birds such as petrels, geese, cur-lews, ducks and other waterfowl. There areno public launches, so youll have to hire aboat (Tk 700 or more for a day trip dividedbetween up to 10 people) at Kastura ghat,or around the port, ask if any fishermen areheading that way.

Maheskhali IslandAbout 6km northwest of Coxs Bazar,Maheskhali (mosh-khal-ee) Island makes apleasant day trip. If there are any festivalsunderway among its mixed Buddhist, Hinduand Muslim population, you might be invitedto stay and watch.

Walking along the jetty into the town ofGhoroghata, youll see a hill to the north,about a 20-minute rickshaw ride away. This

holy spot is the principal tourist attraction,with a famous stupa on top. The climb takesfive minutes and affords a good view of theisland from the top.

A few hundred metres away is a wooded

area that hides Adinath, a mandir (temple) andashram dedicated to Shiva. Its a delightfullyserene place set in a beautiful garden.

If its the dry season and you have the time,you might consider some hiking. There arepaths along the top of the cliffs that line theeastern side of the island. Swimming is alsoan option, particularly at the sandy beacheson the islands western side.

When you return to town, ask to be pointed

towards the small fishing settlement nearby,where you can watch boat-building activity.During the dry season you can also watchpeople fishing and drying their catch.

In the north of the island, the little townof Hohanak has a betel bazaron Monday andThursday evening.

If you get stuck for the night there are acouple of super-basic guesthouses.

To reach the island, take a speedboat from

Kastura ghat in Coxs Bazar, which will leavewhen there are about 10 people on board (Tk60, 15 minutes). You will have to pay Tk 2to get onto the impressively rickety pier atKastura ghat. Also be prepared to clamberover wooden boats tied together as a make-shift pier extension when the tide is out. Thelast speedboat leaves from the island at around6pm. Some travellers have recommended tak-ing a guide as the rickshaw-wallahs on the

island speak no English and can be aggressivein their demands.

TEKNAFThis bustling smugglers town is on the south-ern tip of the narrow strip of land adjoiningMyanmar, 92km south of Coxs Bazar. TheBangladeshMyanmar border is formed bythe Naaf River, a branch of which divides thetown. Most of the town is a crowded area of

narrow alleys.It is illegal to cross into Myanmar fromhere, and since its army has planted minefieldsalong the border to deter illegal immigrantsand smugglers, its not wise to try.

Sights & ActivitiesJust south of the market and police station,youll find jeeps that provide transport to sur-rounding villages. The last village on the main-

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land, Shahpuri, is a bumpy 30-minute ride. Itsmain attraction is the beautiful view from theembankment through the mangrove swampsto the Myanmar coast. Another option is aride south to Badarmokam at the tip of the

peninsula, where the white sandy beach is quitedeserted and particularly nice at sunset.

The main reason for visiting Teknaf is toreach St Martins Island (below), 38km south.

Sleeping & EatingHotel Dwip Plaza(d Tk 400)This clean establish-ment is not always stoked to have foreigners.Rooms have squat toilets.

Hotel Ne-Taung (r with/without air-con Tk 1000/500;

a) Close to the ferry, this ramshackleParjatan-run hotel is the normal lacklustreParjatan offering. However its the best intown, has hot water and some rather nice gar-dens. Its restaurant serves reasonably pricedBangladeshi food.

Finding cheap food is no problem, butdont expect culinary excellence. There aresome basic restaurants near the market andon the main highway, just west of the bridge

over the creek.

Getting There & AwayBuses run between Coxs Bazar and Teknaf(Tk 75, 70km, hourly until 6pm). Expect threearse-aching hours.

ST MARTINS ISLANDIdyllic St Martins Island is everything thatbrash Coxs Bazar is not. Its the countrys

only coral island, and home to a friendly,tomorrow-never-comes population of around7000. The majority of the islands inhabitantsare Muslim, and live primarily off fishing.

St Martins Island is a special place withbeaches that really do match the hype, butwhether it will remain as such is a big ques-tion. Entrepreneurs are increasingly becom-ing aware of the islands economic potential,though unfortunately not its environmental

and cultural vulnerability. For the momentthough it remains a place more for the dis-cerning Bangladeshi tourist and thereforemost foreign visitors find it a far more relax-ing beach hang-out than its big brother upthe coast.

ActivitiesLocals assert that St Martins is a better placeto dive and snorkel than Australias Great

Barrier Reef. While this might be about as trueas Coxs Bazar being one of the wonders of theworld, it is certainly possible to ogle the worldbeneath the waves here between Novemberand March. Oceanic(%0171 867911; www.oceanicbd

.com)charge experienced divers Tk 3000 persession with a guide and all equipment. Tofind it, take a left at the small road at the end ofthe restaurant strip on the beach; its a coupleof hundred metres along on the right.

Sleeping & EatingSimana Perie (%01819 018027; dm Tk 600, r Tk 900-1000;a)This place certainly has positioninggoing for it as its located right on the western

beach. Its also aware of the fact that not every-body wants multi-storeyed blocks and insteadcomprises of a series of eight cottages, whichrepresent decent value.

Hotel Prashad Paradise(%01815 152740; r Tk 1200)The first hotel youll see immediately as youstep onto the island. Rooms are clean andhave a balcony. This is a good example of thetype of hotel under construction, and somewould say demonstrative of the sad direction

the island is taking.Blue Marine Resort (%01817 060065; s/d Tk

1200/1500;a)Probably the best place to stayon the island, even though it has looked toCoxs Bazar for architectural inspiration. Ithas rooms that gleam, a generator guarantee-ing 24-hour power and a couple of self-cater-ing cottages (Tk 2000) that are more blockhouses than quaint cottages.

There is no dearth of shops and teahouses

on St Martins. As you step off the pier youllwalk through a strip of seemingly makeshiftrestaurants. Their fierce competitivenessmakes for some great meals. The numerouno place to eat is the Marine Drop Restaurant(mains Tk 100-150), a wooden beach shack onthe soft sands of the western beach. It of-fers delicious seafood and even hosts the oddbarbeque night.

Getting There & AwayFrom Teknaf several ferries a day cruise tothe island in around two hours. Prices varyslightly depending on which boat companyyou use but average prices are Tk 500 toTk 600 depending on class. Cabins are alsoavailable on some boats for s/d Tk 1500/2500.Most boats leave Teknaf around 9am and re-turn around 3pm. Keari Sindbad (%815 7647)runs the most reliable boats and is the only

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company to operate through the monsoon(boats depart around three times a week atthis time of year but schedules are highlyweather dependent).

Many tour companies and hotels in Coxs

Bazar run rushed day trips to the island forbetween Tk 12,000 and Tk 13,000.

COMILLA%081Comilla is a boisterous and bustling markettown 90km southeast of Dhaka and a fewkilometres west of the Indian state of Tripura.It receives very few foreign visitors, and every-where you go you will be an object of intense

and friendly curiosity. It is a base for thosevisiting the fascinating and extensive Buddhistruins of Mainimati (p144).

The heart of Comilla is the manic andcolourful Kandirpar Circle, from which fourmajor arteries extend. Fazlul Haque Rd headseastward, eventually becoming Chowk BazarRd and the road to Chittagong. Heading eastalong this street youll come to RajshindaMarket and Chowk Bazar, a major commer-

cial area. For internet access, head to EarthNet-Bd (per hr Tk 30).

SightsOn the northwestern outskirts of town,along the road north to Sylhet and 1km offthe Dhaka road, the beautifully maintainedMaynamati War Cemetery is a sombre andmoving testimony to wasted lives. British,African, Indian and Australian troops from

WWII are all buried here. Japanese troopsalso penetrated the area and 40 Japanese sol-diers are among the hundreds buried in themanicured grounds.

Just behind Kandirpar Circle is a park andhuge lake with a traffic-free walking routethat locals love to parade around in the coolof the evening. Unfortunately neither the lakenor the park has been treated with the respectthey deserve.

Just past Chowk Bazar, on the outskirts oftown, are some impressive Hindu temples.

SleepingHotel Abedin(%76014; Station Rd; s/d with shared bath-room Tk 60/120)From outside this bright-greenhotel looks like a charmingly old-fashionedplace, while on the inside the corridors lead-ing to the rooms have some resemblance to aboat (or possibly a prison depending on your

mood). The rooms themselves are very tightand noisy, but fairly well-kept. Its hard to findas the sign is in Bengali only.

Ashik Residential Resthouse(%68781; Nazrul Ave;s with/without air-con Tk 1000/575, d with/without air-con Tk

1400/700;a)The air-con rooms are overpricedbut those without air-con are decent. Thecomfortable rooms are unusually large, andhave tables and sit-down toilets. Some havebalconies. The staff are English-speaking.

Hotel Noorjahan(%68737; Dhaka-Chittagong Rd; r Tk1200)Quite possibly the most exclusive servicestation in the world! Every bus on the DhakaChittagong run stops off here in order to letthe passengers feast in the excellent restaurant

(see below), but just upstairs are a handful ofclean and calm rooms (get one facing awayfrom the road for maximum peace). However,its the service that really clinches the deal.The army of staff will go out of their way toensure you have a relaxing stay and youll evenbe given your own nanny a guy whose jobit is to look after foreign guests (which, withthe scarcity of such people, must make this theeasiest job in the world). A further bonus is

the tacky decorations. The only real downsideis the distance from town (a baby taxi will costyou around Tk 100).

EatingFor cheap Bangladeshi food, the area aroundthe train station in the centre of town hasseveral good restaurants.

Meet Point Restaurant (Kandirpar Circle; mains Tk80)Smartly suited waiters bring forth spot-on

Bengali dishes at this heaving restaurant. Thesign is in Bengali only but its very easy to findas its right on the main circle.

Diana Hotel (Kandirpar Circle; mains Tk 80) RealBangladeshi food in atypically clean sur-rounds. The curries are delectable and thenaan is piping-hot perfection.

Hotel Noorjahan (%68737; Dhaka-Chittagong Rd;mains Tk 80-150) If youre travelling betweenDhaka and Chittagong and dont stop to

eat at one of the three restaurants in theNoorjahan complex then people will assumeyou have taken leave of your senses, and quitefrankly theyd be correct. Choose betweenthe Bangladeshi, Chinese or kebab restau-rants and afterwards be sure to dip into thesweets collection and wash it down with astrong coffee.

Silver Spoon (Station Rd; mains Tk 150)EnjoyableChinese fare with a menu sensibly divided

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into single, half and full serves. Its a goodplace to hide from the world.

Getting There & AwayBUS

Buses for Dhaka (Tk 60, two hours), and othercities to the north, leave from Station Rd, justwest of the railway line. Tisha Bus (%65856; Wapda

Rd), off Station Rd, operates coaches to Dhaka(Tk 100, every 20 minutes between 5.40amand 7pm).

Buses for Chittagong (Tk 100/150, fourhours, every 20 minutes between 5.30am and5.30pm) and other towns to the south leavefrom the Chowk Bazar Rd bus station, about2km east of Kandirpar Circle.

5

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(90km)

To Chittagong (154km)

To Dhaka

RuinsMainimati

To Chittagong (154km)

Kotbari

CantonmentMilitary

CantonmentMilitary

Gumti River

StationTrain

Mosque

MarketRajshinda

BazarChowk

College

CollegeCadet

Military

Checkpoint

CheckpointMilitary

CheckpointMilitary

RuinsMainimati

RuinsMainimati

CircleKandirpar

See Enlargement

Barura Rd

BazarRd

Ave

Nazrul

Dh

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itta

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Rd

Laksham

Rd

Chowk

Ci vi l Co u rtRd

StationRd

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KotbariRd

Our Lady ofMilitary

ChurchFatima Catholic

Stadium

New Market

Comilla

Hospital

LawComilla

CircleKandirpar

College

Zilla School

Park

StationRd

ue Rd

FazlulHaq

Zilla

Sch

oolRd

AveNazrul

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Our Lady ofMilitary

ChurchFatima Catholic

Stadium

New Market

Comilla

Hospital

LawComilla

CircleKandirpar

College

Zilla School

Park

StationRd

ue Rd

FazlulHaq

Zilla

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15TRANSPORT

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12EATING

11109

SLEEPING

8765432

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

1INFORMATION

Tisha Bus...................................... B3 Sylhet)...................................... B3Main Bus Station (for Dhaka &Bus Station (for Chittagong)........ D4

Silver Spoon................................. C3Meet Point Restaurant................. C3Hotel Noorjahan ........................(see 11)Diana Hotel.................................. C3

Hotel Noorjahan........................... B5Hotel Abedin................................ C3

Ashik Residencial Resthouse........... C3

Salban Vihara................................. A5Maynamati War Cemetery............. A2Mainimati Museum........................ A5Kotila Mura.................................... A3Hindu Temples............................... D4Charpatra Mura............................. A2Ananda Vihara............................... A4

EarthNet-Bd................................... C2

COMILLA & MAINIMATI RUINS 1 mile0 2 km0

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If youre heading to Mymensingh anddont want to go via Dhaka, go north toBhairab Bazar, in Dhaka division, and pickup connections there.

TRAINComilla is on the DhakaChittagong line.There are a couple of daily express trainsto Dhaka (air-con berth/1st/sulob class Tk360/170/90, six hours, departs 1.37am and1.54pm) and a couple of non-daily depar-tures (which often have more convenientdeparture times). Two go to Sylhet (1st/2ndclass, Tk 195/135, 6 hours, departs 12.47amand 10.57am service doesnt run Monday).

There are at least three daily express trains toChittagong (1st/sulobclass Tk 140/80, departs11.44am, 2.20pm and 3.15pm) as well as fur-ther non-daily trains.

MAINIMATI RUINSHidden away for years in the low MainimatiLalmai ridge of hills are the remains of thebygone Buddhist splendour of Mainimati.Between the 6th and 13th centuries,

Mainimati was famous as an important centreof Buddhist culture and today the scatteredruins count as some of the most breathtakingin Bangladesh. The three most important ofthe 50-odd Buddhist sites are Salban Vihara,Kotila Mura and Charpatra Mura.

A large section of Mainimati is a militarycantonment. It was while the army was clearingthe area with bulldozers that the archaeo-logical site in the Kotbari area was discov-

ered. Some of the major ruins are within thecantonment, and cannot be visited withoutpermission from military officers. For thisreason, most visitors see only the museum andthe ruins outside the cantonment.

SightsMAINIMATI MUSEUM

The best place to start explorations is atMainimati Museum (admission Tk 50;h2.30-6pm

Mon, 10am-1pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Thu & Sat, 10am-12.30pm& 2.30-6pm Fri Apr-Sep, 1.30-5pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Thu & Sat, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Fri Oct-Mar).The collection includes terracotta plaques,bronze statues, 4th-century silver and goldcoins, jewellery, kitchen utensils and votivestupas embossed with Buddhist inscriptions.The marvellous terracotta plaques reveal arural Buddhist art alive with animation and

vivid natural realism.

Also on display is an unusually largebronze bell from one of the Buddhist tem-ples and some 1000-year-old large, well-preserved black-stone carvings of Hindu godsand goddesses, including Vishnu, Ganesh

and Parvati.The museums custodian, Mr Pramanik

Abdul Latif, is happy to chat. His office isopposite the museum.

SALBAN VIHARA

While Salban Vihar

Documents

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