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Toronto
Niagara Falls
Ottawa
QUÉBEC
C
AN
AD A
Montréal
Niagara Falls
QUÉBEC
Detroit New York
Boston
Halifax
Chicago
ONTARIO
Toronto
U N I TE D
STA
TE
S
NEWBRUNSWICK
NOVASCOTIA
PRINCE EDWARDISLAND
A T L A N
T I C O
CE
AN
DiscoverExplore Québec City and its region like a pro with a dozen unique tours through its vibrant neighbourhoods and magnificent attractions.
IndulgeChoose from hand-picked restaurants, cafés and bars, hotels and inns for all budgets, original shops, and exciting events and festivals.
EnjoyBe inspired by our authors’ suggestions for uncovering Québec City’s hidden treasures.
PlayDiscover the majestic parks and countless outdoor activities that the region offers year round.
PlanTravel stress-free with Ulysses’ clear maps and useful information.
Live Québec City to the fullest with Ulysses!
Québec C
ity
ISBN : 978-2-89464-931-2
A digital version (PDF) of this book is also available. ISBN 978-2-89665-075-0 (digital version)
Québec City
$ 24.95 CAD
T r a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
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Extrait de la publication
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025
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0mQUÉBEC CITYCentreNot to be missedWorth a visitInteresting
Travel better, enjoy more
© A
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Pay
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T r a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
5th edition
Dans la ville où je suis né, le passé porte le présent comme un enfant sur ses épaules...
“In the town where I was born, the past carries the presentlike a child on its shoulders...”
Le Confessionnal Robert Lepage
Québec City
Extrait de la publication
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1. Built in 1688, Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires is the oldest church in Canada. (page 66) © Dreamstime.com/Jf123
2. Beautiful Place Royale, where Samuel de Champlain founded Québec City in 1608. (page 66) © iStockphoto.com/Tony Tremblay
3. An officer participates in the changing of the guard in front of the Citadelle. (page 62) © Dreamstime.com/Gary Blakeley
4. An old house in Vieux-Québec with its typical small-paned windows. (page 54) © iStockphoto.com/Sebastien Cote
5. The Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site outlines the development of the city’s defence system. (page 49) © Parks Canada, B. Ostiguy
Historic Québec City
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1. Palais Montcalm welcomes music lovers in its splendid concert hall, Salle Raoul-Jobin. (page 84) © Philippe Renault
2. Designed by architect Moshe Safdie, the Musée de la Civilisation recalls traditional Québec architecture with its stylized roof and dormer windows. (page 70) © Philippe Renault
3. An enchanting winter scene in the Petit-Champlain district. (page 63) © Mathieu Dupuis
4. Built in 1675, Maison Jacquet now houses the renowned restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens, which serves traditional Québécois specialties. (pages 54, 154) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
Culture and Lifestyle
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5. Many of the houses on bustling Grande Allée have been converted into bars and restaurants with terraces sheltered by multitudes of parasols. (page 78) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
6. Pleasant Rue Saint-Paul is lined with antique shops and art galeries. (page 71) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
7. A sculpture entitled “La Vivrière” stands over pretty Place de la FAO in the Vieux-Port area. (page 71) © Philippe Renault/Hemis
8. Ice skating on Place D’Youville with Bonhomme Carnaval, the Carnaval de Québec’s famous ambassador. (pages 123, 174) © Carnaval de Québec
Culture and Lifestyle (continued)
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1. The golden fields of Île d’Orléans, with the Charlevoix region’s mountains in the background. (page 112) © iStockphoto.com/grafxcom
2. The granite facade of the towering Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré. (page 110) © Mathieu Dupuis
3. The magnificent spectacle of Montmorency Falls, one of the most impressive natural phenomena in the province. (page 109) © Mathieu Dupuis
4. The architecture of the Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations is based on Iroquoian longhouses. (page 107) © Jean Désy
Around Québec City
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SUGGESTED TOURS
Extrait de la publication
Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publicationMain entry under title : Québec City (Ulysses travel guide) Includes index. ISSN 1717-4767 ISBN 978-2-89464-931-2 1. Québec (Québec) - Guidebooks.FC2946.18.R4513 917.14’471045 C2005-301538-X
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher.
© April 2012, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reservedPrinted in CanadaISBN 978-2-89464-931-2 (Printed Version)ISBN 978-2-89665-075-0 (Digital PDF Version)
Guide Update for the Fifth Edition : Annie GilbertEditor : Pierre LedouxAssociate Editor : Julie BrodeurCopy Editing and Translation for the Fifth Edition : Matthew McLauchlinResearch and Writing for Previous Editions : Marie-Josée Guy, Marie-Josée Béliveau, Stéphane G. Marceau, François RémillardTranslation for Previous Editions : Cindy Garayt, Janet LoganComputer Graphics : Pascal BietPhotographies : Cover Page, Fresque des Québécois : © Philippe Renault/Hemis; Page 1, Fontaine de Tourny : © iStockphoto.com/Tony Tremblay; View of Château Frontenac from the Petit-Champlain district : © Shutterstock.com/Kenneth V. Pilon
This work was produced under the direction of Claude Morneau.
AcknowledgementsThank you to Paule Bergeron and Nathalie Guay of Québec City Tourism, Sébastien Desnoyers and Jason Picard-Binet of Tourism Wendake, Chrystiane Deschênes, Catherine Gilbert, Clément Laberge, Marc Boutet and Gilles Herman for their help.
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.
Note to ReadersThe information contained in this guide was correct at press time. However, mistakes may slip by, omissions are always possible, establishments may move, etc. The authors and publisher hereby disclaim any liability for loss or damage resulting from omissions or errors.
Extrait de la publication
My...
Québec City!Here are our choices for the best, most essential sights and stops you should know about to explore Québec City like an expert.
Discover our editorial team’s special favourites in the “Best of Québec City” section, and check out our list of “Ten Quintessential Québec City Experiences” to get to know the capital as it really is. Then have a look at the itineraries in the “In Due Time” section to get the most out of your visit, whether a whistle stop or a multi-day stay.
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The Best of Québec CityFree attractions � Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral p. 55
� Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Québec p. 56
� Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires p. 66
� Hôtel du Parlement p. 75
� Battlefields Park p. 81
� Bois-de-Coulonge p. 101
� Maison des Jésuites de Sillery p. 102
� A stroll along the streets of Vieux-Québec (p. 48) or Petit-Champlain (p. 63)
Best views � Observatoire de la Capitale p. 79
� Pointe-à-Puiseaux promontory p. 102
� L’Astral revolving restaurant p. 159
� Terrasse Dufferin p. 52
� Parc de la Plage-Jacques-Cartier p. 104
� Observation tower in Saint-François-de-l’Île-d’Orléans p. 115
� Québec-Lévis ferry p. 38
For nature lovers � Parc de la Chute Montmorency p. 109
� Jardin Jeanne-d’Arc p. 79
� Abraham Plains p. 81
� Jardin de Saint-Roch p. 88
� Domaine Maizerets p. 94
� Bois-de-Coulonge p. 101
� Parc de la Plage-Jacques-Cartier p. 104
� Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier p. 121
� Parc de la Chute Montmorency p. 109
For culture buffs � Méduse p. 88
� Happy hour at Le Cercle p. 172
� The Image Mill p. 72
� An outdoor concert at the Festival d’Été de Québec p. 174
� A play at the Grand Théâtre p. 79
� Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec p. 80
� A show at the Capitole de Québec p. 82
� Espace Félix-Leclerc p. 116
� A movie at Le Clap p. 174
� A concert at Palais Montcalm (p. 84) or Bal du Lézard (p. 173)
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For kids and their parents � Musée de la Civilisation p. 70
� Choco-Musée Érico p. 85
� Aquarium du Québec p. 102
� Ice Hotel p. 106
� Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier p. 121
� Onhoüa Chetek8e p. 107
� Musée de l’Abeille p. 110
� Benjo p. 187
For cyclists � Promenade Samuel-De Champlain p. 104
� Corridor des Cheminots p. 121
� Vélopiste Jacques-Cartier–Portneuf p. 121
For a picnic � Parc de la Chute-Montmorency p. 109
� Abraham Plains p. 81
� Jardin de Saint-Roch p. 88
� Domaine Maizerets p. 94
� Bois-de-Coulonge p. 101
� Plage-Jacques-Cartier Park p. 104
…and to stock up before � Marché du Vieux-Port p. 72
� Épicerie J. A. Moisan p. 85
� Les Halles du Petit-Quartier p. 183
� Morena p. 183
� Épicerie Européenne p. 183
The best stays h The lap of luxury
� Fairmont Le Château Frontenac p. 129
� Hôtel Le Germain-Dominion p. 131
h For history lovers � Auberge Baker p. 135
� Fairmont Le Château Frontenac p. 129
� Hôtel Clarendon p. 129
� Auberge Le Vieux-Presbytère p. 137
h For businesspeople � Delta Québec p. 132
� Hilton Québec p. 132
� Loews Hôtel Le Concorde p. 132
h The most original � Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations p. 134
� Ice Hotel Québec-Canada p. 134
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The best dining h Fine dining
� Auberge La Camarine p. 164
� La Fenouillère p. 163
� Laurie Raphaël p. 157
� Le Champlain p. 154
� Le Saint-Amour p. 154
� La Tanière p. 163
� Ristorante Michelangelo p. 163
h Terraces � Restaurant du Musée p. 158
� Le Moulin de Saint-Laurent p. 165
� Ristorante Il Teatro p. 161
� Panache Mobile p. 165
h Creative cuisine � Panache Mobile p. 165
� Restaurant Dazibo p. 164
� La Traite p. 164
� Sagamité p. 164
� Nek8arre p. 163
� La Tanière p. 163
� Le Patriarche p. 153
h Bring your own wine � Chez-Soi La Chine p. 152
� Thang Long p. 159
� Le Carthage p. 160
To enjoy a cup of coffee or tea � Brûlerie Saint-Roch p. 161
� Le Nektar p. 161
� Chez Temporel p. 151
� Café Krieghoff p. 157
To sip a cocktail � Le Cercle p. 172
� Boudoir Lounge p. 172
� Le Drague – Cabaret Club p. 172
To party with the locals � Carnaval de Québec p. 174
� Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France p. 175
� Festival d’Été de Québec p. 174
� Grands Feux Loto-Québec p. 175
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Québec City... In Due TimeOne DayFor a short but fun trip focusing on culture and history, stick to Vieux-Québec. Dive into the heart of the Petit-Champlain neighbourhood, with its cobblestone streets lined with art gal-leries and craft shops. Visit the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec, a master-piece of religious architecture, and the Centre d’Interprétation de Place-Royale to trace the city’s history to its roots. Finish up your trip with window shopping within the city walls on Rue Saint-Jean, the city’s main shopping artery, followed by a drink in a Saint-Roch neigh-bourhood bar. If your tastes run more to discovering the sculptors and painters who left their mark on Québec art history, replace one of the above with a visit to the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec.
Two DaysA two-day stay in the capital of Québec will give you time to visit Grande Allée, the grand boulevard whose upper-class homes now house restaurants and nightclubs. Take a stroll through the steep, narrow streets of the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, ending up at lively Avenue Cartier, freshly spruced up with wider sidewalks and new lighting. Take a break at the Battlefields Park, a green oasis at the heart of the city with an amazing view of the river. The curious shouldn’t forget a stop at the Séminaire de Québec, once a haven of French civilization in a harsh, hostile land, and now home to the fascinating Musée de l’Amérique Française.
One WeekFor a well-rounded week, supplement the above with a visit to La Citadelle, witness to three centuries of military history in North America. Discover the turning points of Québec City’s his-tory at the Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site where you’ll discover the unique city walls, and at the Artillery Park Heritage Site and its beautiful white roughcast Dauphine Redoubt.
If you’re interested in the city’s most famous landmarks, continue on to the Château Fronte-nac, the magnificent hotel towering above the St. Lawrence, or the Hôtel du Parlement, seat of the National Assembly of Québec, where you can admire the splendid Fontaine de Tourny.
Modern Québec is well represented at the Musée de la Civilisation, whose beautiful, unclut-tered architecture hosts exhibits on the customs and values of today’s Québec.
Get a unique view of Québec City from the vantage point of the Vieux-Port; running along the riverbank to the Bassin Louise, the port hosts activities of all kinds. Then, if you (and your legs) are up for it, enjoy the view as you climb Côte de la Montagne. Get your camera out for
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classic vacation photos from the Terrasse Dufferin, and continue along the Promenade des Gouverneurs to the summit of legendary Cap Diamant.
For an excursion, head for Île d’Orléans to discover its enchanting landscapes and small farms. On the way, stop at Parc de la Chute Montmorency to admire Québec’s highest waterfall. If outdoor activities are your thing, Parc National de la Jacques-Cartier and Station Touris-tique Duchesnay have plenty to offer. Finally, for an experience off the beaten path, head to Wendake and discover the territory of the Huron-Wendat nation.
Ten Quintessential Québec City Experiences � Seeing the city at your feet from the Observatoire de la Capitale p. 79
� Wandering back in time on the narrow, winding streets of Vieux-Québec p. 48
� Strolling in Battlefields Park (the Plains of Abraham), one of the country’s most beautiful urban parks p. 81
� Window-shopping among the profusion of crafts in the Petit-Champlain district p. 178
� Discovering the authentic Québec City atmosphere during the Festival d’Été (p. 174) or the Carnaval (p. 174)
� Taking in the amazing panorama of the Saint Lawrence River from the Terrasse Dufferin, in front of the Château Frontenac p. 52
� Admiring the capital’s numerous beautiful murals p. 68
� Exploring Île d’Orléans and discovering its home-grown products p. 112
� Reliving the earliest days of the colony through period costumes at the grand parade of the Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France p. 175
� Walking atop the walls of Québec City with an expert guide p. 49
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Behind the Words
Annie Gilbert
This latest version of Ulysses Québec City was updated by Annie Gilbert. A longtime former Québec City resident who returns there frequently, Annie is the perfect guide for your tour of the capital of Québec.
Following her studies in tourism, Annie joined the Ulysses team, where she has held several different positions. She start-ed as a bookstore worker before joining the editorial team, where her in-depth know-ledge has been invaluable in preparing our guidebooks.
Born in the Abitibi region, she is equally at home fishing on a tranquil lake or shopping in a trendy boutique in Paris, New York, or London.
Annie has contributed to several Ulysses guides including Boston, Croisières dans les Caraïbes, Hawaii, and On va où aujourd’hui?
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ContentsPortrait 21Geography 22History 23Politics 27Economy 29Population 30Art and Culture 30Architecture 31
Practical Information 33Entrance Formalities 34Getting There and Getting Around 34Useful Information, from A to Z 40
Exploring 47Vieux-Québec 48Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale 63Vieux-Port 70Parliament Hill and Grande Allée 74Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste 82Saint-Roch 85Saint-Sauveur 90Limoilou 93Chemin Sainte-Foy 97Sillery to Cap-Rouge 100Heading North 104Côte-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans 108
Outdoors 119Parks 120Outdoor Activities 120
Accommodations 125Vieux-Québec 126Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale 130Vieux-Port 130Parliament Hill and Grande Allée 131Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste 132Saint-Roch 132Sainte-Foy 133
Near the Airport 134Heading North 134Côte-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans 135
Restaurants 149Vieux-Québec 151Petit-Champlain and Place-Royale 154Vieux-Port 155Parliament Hill and Grande Allée 157Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste 159Saint-Roch 161Limoilou 162Sainte-Foy 162Sillery 163Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures 163Heading North 163Côte-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans 164
Entertainment 169Bars and Nightclubs 170Cultural Events 173Festivals and Other Events 174Spas 175Sports 175
Shopping 177Main Shopping Streets and Malls 178Antiques 178Art Galleries 178Bookstores 179Clothing 179Cosmetics 180Craft Shops and Artisans’ Studios 180Decorative Objects 182Food and Kitchen Products 182Furs 185Jewellery 185Music 185Newspapers and Tobacco 185Outdoor Accessories 186
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List
of
Map
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Li
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List of In-Depth Articles
A Brief Summary of Québec City’s History 23
Baillargé or Baillairgé? 57
Blessed Bread Street 66
Children’s Favourite Attractions 117
Félix Leclerc 113
Let There Be Light! 31
Montcalm’s Remains 92
Riopelle 81
Rue du Trésor, an Artists’ Haven 58
Small Panes of Glass 54
S-Shaped Linchpins 69
Vaults 65
List of Maps
Chemin Sainte-FoyAttractions 98-99Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 147
Faubourg Saint-Jean-BaptisteAttractions 83Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 144
LimoilouAttractions 95Restaurants, bars and nightclubs 146
Parliament Hill and Grande AlléeAttractions 77Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 143
Petit-Champlain and Place-RoyaleAttractions 67Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 141
Québec City Region 36
Saint-RochAttractions 87Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 145
Saint-SauveurAttractions 91
SilleryAttractions 103Restaurants 146
Vieux-PortAttractions 73Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 142
Vieux-QuébecAttractions 51Accommodations, restaurants,
bars and nightclubs 140
Relaxation 186Shoes and Hats 186Stationery 187Toys 187Souvenirs 187
Index 190
Table of Distances 201
English-French Glossary 202
Map Symbols 216
Symbols Used In This Guide 216
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Area: 450km2
Population: Metropolitan area: 750,000 inhabitants Québec City: 550,000 inhabitants
Climate: Average temperatures: January: –11°C July: 19°C Average precipitation: Snow: 337cm Rain: 883mm
Time Zone: UTC –5
Official Language: French
Québec City Is... ... the provincial capital of Québec
... the oldest French-speaking city in North America
... the only fortified city north of Mexico
... Vieux-Québec, Québec City’s historic district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Québec City
Where is Québec City?20ul
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Toronto
Niagara Falls
Ottawa
QUÉBECC A N
AD
A
Montréal
Niagara Falls
Gaspé
Rimouski
Rouyn-Noranda
Saguenay
Sept-Îles
Baie-Comeau
Trois-Rivières
Sherbrooke
QUÉBEC
Detroit
New York
Boston
Halifax
Chicago
ONTARIO
Toronto
U N I T
E D STA
T ES
NEWBRUNSWICK
NOVASCOTIA
P.E.I.
A T L AN
TI C
OC
EA
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Geography 22
History 23
Politics 27
Economy 29
Population 30
Art and Culture 30
Architecture 31
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Port
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Geo
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R ich in history and architecture, magnificent Québec City is set amidst an exceptional natural landscape. Even though Québec City is one of the oldest cities in North America and the oldest in Canada, it is
firmly turned to the future.
The Haute-Ville (upper town) sits on a promontory, Cap Diamant, which is more than 98m high and juts out over the St. Lawrence River. During his third trip, Jacques Cartier named this rocky outcrop “Cap aux Diamants,” believing he had discovered diamonds and gold here. But he quickly learned that these precious stones were nothing more than common fool’s gold and quartz. Nevertheless, Cap Diamant became the future site of Québec City when Champlain established a fur trading post and fortified buildings, creating the settle-ment known as “Abitation.”
This site played a strategic role in New France’s defence system. Here the St. Lawrence River is only 1km wide, and it is this narrowing of the river that gave Québec City the name “Kebec,” an Algonquin word meaning “place where the river narrows.” Perched on top of Cap Diamant and surrounded by major fortifications from very early on, the city is commonly dubbed the “Gibraltar of North America.”
This fortification did not succeed, however, in driving back the English troops who finally captured the city during the Battle of the Plains of Abraham. Yet the French colony managed to retain its cultural identity after the Conquest. Well protected inside its walls, Québec City’s heart continued to beat, making it the centre of French Canadian culture in North America.
In 1985, in order to preserve and promote Québec City and its cultural treasures, UNESCO declared the city’s historic area—the only walled city in North America—North America’s first World Heritage Site.
Affectionately known as the “Vieille Capitale” (Old Capital City), but usually simply called “Québec” by the Québécois, Québec City is the soul of the French-speaking Americas. Thousands of tourists visit it every year and marvel at the city’s many charms, its European atmosphere and its inhabitants’ joie de vivre and hospitality. The architecture and narrow cobblestone streets give the city its character. A romantic place that never fails to fascinate, Québec City has been a source of inspiration to artists for more than three centuries. It is a delight for both the eye and the soul. This little gem is irresistible and whether you visit in the summer, winter, spring or autumn, you cannot help but give in to its charm.
GeographyQuébec City covers an area of 450km2 and has a population of more than half a mil-lion people, mostly French-speaking. Its six boroughs—La Cité–Limoilou, Les Rivières, Sainte-Foy–Sillery–Cap-Rouge, Charlesbourg, Beauport, and La Haute-Saint-Charles—are divided into 35 different neighbourhoods.
Downtown Québec City occupies the Saint-Roch neighbourhood in the Basse-Ville area. The Haute-Ville (upper town) and Basse-Ville (lower town) are an easy geographical ref-erence commonly used by the city’s residents. You’ll have no trouble telling the first, with its prosperous buildings atop Cap Diamant, from the second, an area with working-class roots spreading from the foot of the cape.
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Map
Sym
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In T
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Map Symbols
Symbols Used In This Guider Ulysses favourite
î Breakfast included
V Bring your own wine
Attraction Classification Not to be missed Worth a visit Interesting
Accommodation ClassificationUnless otherwise noted, all prices indicated in this guide apply to a standard room for two people in peak season.
$ less than $60 $$ from $60 to $100 $$$ from $101 to $150 $$$$ from $151 to $225 $$$$$ more than $225
Restaurant ClassificationPrices in this guide are for a meal for one person, excluding taxes and tip.
$ less than $15 $$ from $15 to $25 $$$ from $26 to $50 $$$$ more than $50
All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.
Attractions
Accommodations
Restaurants
Bars and nightclubs
Sea, lake, river
Forest or park
Place
National capital
Provincial or state capital
International border
Provincial or regional border
Train track
Tunnel
Highway
88
Major Road88
Trans-Canada Highway2
Hospital
StairwayInternational Airport
Train Station
Bus Station
Tourist Information
Funicular/ Elevator
Ferry
Cemetery
Museum
Fortifications
Fortifications Gate Mountain
Market
Pedestrian Street
Building
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025
050
0mQUÉBEC CITYCentreNot to be missedWorth a visitInteresting
Travel better, enjoy more
© A
lexa
ndre
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ette
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Toronto
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AD A
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Detroit New York
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A T L A N
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DiscoverExplore Québec City and its region like a pro with a dozen unique tours through its vibrant neighbourhoods and magnificent attractions.
IndulgeChoose from hand-picked restaurants, cafés and bars, hotels and inns for all budgets, original shops, and exciting events and festivals.
EnjoyBe inspired by our authors’ suggestions for uncovering Québec City’s hidden treasures.
PlayDiscover the majestic parks and countless outdoor activities that the region offers year round.
PlanTravel stress-free with Ulysses’ clear maps and useful information.
Live Québec City to the fullest with Ulysses!
Québec C
ity
ISBN 978-2-89665-075-0(digital version)
Québec City
T r a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e
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