Islay
Queen of The Hebrides
Benoit Bailey @RatherBeOnIslay
November 14th 2016Montréal
Caol Ila
Ardbeg
Laphroaig
Gartbeck
Kildalton Cross
American Monument
Loch Gorm
Machir Bay
Jura
Finlaggan
Loch Indaal
Loch Gruinart
RSPB Loch Gruinart
Claggan Bay
Saligo Bay
Ardnahoe
Peated Whisky
• Lightly peated: 1 – 5 ppm• Medium peated: 5 – 15 ppm• Heavily peated : 15 – 50 ppm• Super heavily peated : > 50 ppm
Peat
• Partial decomposition of organic matter in wetlands because of lack of O2 over thousand of years– Sphagnum– Low growing plants (grass, heather, etc…)
• From 10 to 50 cm below ground – Upper part: more smoke than heat– Lower part : more heat than smoke
• Composition– 92% organic : contains variable amount of cellulose,
hemicellulose, and lignins– 8% inorganic : almost ash
Why Peat is Use in Scotch Industry?
• Up until the early 1960s: Necessity– Heat needed to dry the malt in the kiln in each
distillery– Coal not readily available in remore area
• From the 1960s: To flavor the malt– Industrial scale maltings– Limited “artisanal” maltings• Balvenie, BenRiach, Bowmore, Highland Park,
Kilchoman, Laphroaig, Springbank
Bruichladdich
• Three malt specifications (Bairds Malt from Inverness)– Non peated: Bruichladdich 3-4 ppm– Heavily peated: Port Charlotte 40 ppm– Super heavily peated: Octomore varies ≥ 131 ppm• X.1: Bourbon casks• X.2: Mixed casks (duty-free)• X.3: Islay barley• 7.4: Experimental casks
Bruichladdich
Malt specifications phenol(ppm)
Finish spirit phenol(ppm)
Bruichladdich 3-4 trace
Port Charlotte 40 20-25
Octomore 2002 Futures 80.5 29.6
Octomore 2003 Futures 167 46.4
Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004
Octomore.1
Bourbon(ppm)
.2 Cask Finished(ppm)
.3 Islay Barley(ppm)
.4 Virgin Oak
(ppm)
Aged(ppm)
Futures 2002 80.5
Futures 2004 167
1 131
2 140 140 Chateau Petrus
3 152
4 167 167 Château d'Yquem
5 169
6 167 167 Cognac 258
7 208 208 Rhône Syrah 169 167
7 yo Feis Ile ? Oloroso*
10 yo 1st ed 80.5
Bruichladdich 22 yo
• Released in 2012 • Distilled before the
renaissance in 2001• 46% • American oak casks • KWM $149.99 + GST
(2012 price)
Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes
https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old
Anonymous. All About Distilling. http://www.manitobabrewhub.ca/learn/all-about-distilling
Barley
Dry and store barley
Soak (steep) barley in water
Air rest
Germinate to make malt green
Kiln to specification
Malted barley
Malting complete?
Yes
No
12%
1st steep 32-35%
50 hours
Final steep 46-47%
1-2 days
5-6 days
Moisture15-20%
DurationMaltingProcess
5%
Months
Goals of Kilning
• Stop the biological activity of the green malt• Produce a dry storable (stable) product ready
to be used• Remove undesired flavour• Add flavour – Existing precursors– Peat reek (smoke)
Goals of Kilning
• Add flavour from existing precursors– Dimethyl sulphide (DMS) from thermal degradation
of S-methylmethionine– Aldehydes from oxydation of unsaturated lipids• Hexanal (green, grassy)• Trans-2-nonenal (cardboard)
• Add flavour with peat reek– Adds phenols
Lagavulin 8 yo
• Released in 2016• For 200th anniversary• 48% - colored• Re-fill American oak
casks • SAQ $100
Alfred Bernard
“From Ardbeg our route homeward lay through the beautiful village of Lagganmhouillin or Lagavulin, “the Mill in the Valley”, and no prettier or more romantic spot could have been chosen for a distillery. The make is pure Islay malt, and is principally sold in Glasgow, England and the Colonies. The make is held in high repute; we tasted some eight years old before starting, which was exceptionnaly fine.”
The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom 1887
Lagavulin 8 yo Official Tasting Notes
https://www.malts.com/en-gb/our-whisky-collection/lagavulin/lagavulin-8-years-old/
Peat Brings Phenols…
• But not all phenols come from peat– But all phenols come from burning plants• Charring of casks (degraded wood carbohydrates –
cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins) – Smoky not peaty
• Not all phenols are smoky– Vanillin– Eugenol (clove aroma/flavor)
What is in the Peat Reek that is Important Flavourwise?
PhenolsPhenol Medicinal, antiseptic, iodine, carbolic
Guaiacol Flavour of smoke (no aroma) but also medicinal, woody
Syringol Aroma of smoke (no flavour)
o-cresol Musty, phenolic, medicinal
p-cresol Medicinal
m-cresol Medicinal, woody, leathery, phenolic
Xylenol isomers Medicinal, sweet
4-ethylguaiacol Spicy, smoky, bacon, phenolic, clove
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/magic-mayhem-whisky-phenols-matthew-fergusson-stewartBuxton, Hugues. The Science and Commerce of Whisky.Lee, Paterson, Pigott. J Inst Brewing 2001: 107; 287http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/index.html
Absorption of Peat Reek
• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Intensity of smoke • Amount of peat• Time exposed to peat reek
– Springbank» Hazelburn (non-peated): 30 hours of hot air» Springbank : 6 hours of peat reek + 30 hours of hot air» Longrow: up to 48 hours of peat reek
– Laphroaig: 12-15 hours of peat reek – Bowmore: 15 hours of peat reek – Octomore: 120 hours of peat reek in saladin box no hot air
Absorption of Peat Reek
• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Rate of malt drying• Uptake smoke flavours in the range of 20-50% moisture
– Maximum 20-30%• Two methods
– Peat then dry– Peat and dry
Laphroaig Lore
• Released in 2016• Permanent addition to the
range:– “The richest of the rich”
• 48% • 7-21 yo American and
European oak casks• SAQ $200
http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/
Tasting Notes
http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/The-Taste.aspx
Peat Terroir
• Not all peat is created equal– Varies in quality and composition depending• Climate• Vegetation
– Burnt sphagnum releases more simple phenols– Burnt wood releases more syringol and guaiacol derivatives
• Bog type (rainfall or ground water)• Cutting depth
– Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015• 100% made from malt from own kiln not mixed with PE• More cresol and 4-ethyl-guiacol in Laphroaig malt
Peat Terroir
Relative Abundances of Pyrolysis Products
Islay St. Fergus Orkney Tomintoul
Carbohydrate derivatives (%) 26.6 23.5 43.1 50.5Guaiacyl (%) 20.6 23.6 14.3 11.1Syringyl (%) 7.8 14.7 4.2 3.3
Phenols (%) 14.6 12.8 12.3 11.6
Nitrogen compounds (%) 3.2 2.5 2.8 1.2
Lignin/phenols 2.0 3.0 1.5 1.25
Syringyl/Guaiacyl 0.38 0.62 0.29 0.30
Harrison and Priest. J Agric Food Chem 2009; 57: 2385-2391
Peat Terroir
• Even peat from Islay varies– Climatic bog (blanket bog) - 10% of Scotland• More sphagnum moss, less woody vegetation
– Richer in phenols and aromatics– Poorer in carbohydrates, lignin and nitrogen
Castle Hill (Port Ellen)– Local bog (valley/bassin bog) - 1% of Scotland• More sedges and grass
– Richer in lignin-derivatives and carbohydrates Gartbreck moss (Bowmore) Glenmachrie moss (Laphroaig)
SpeysideTomintoul
AberdeenshireSt Fergus
OrkneyHobbister Hill
IslayCastle Hill
IslayGlenmachrie
IslayGartbeck
Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4; 333-339
Islay: Glenmachrie moss (bassin/valley bog)
Islay: Gartbeck moss (bassin/valley bog)
Islay: Castlehill (blanket bog)
Orkney: Hobbister Hill (blanket bog)
Aberdeenshire: St Fergus (bassin bog)
Speyside: Tomintoul (bassin bog)
Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4 ; 333-339
CHGM
GA
Kilchoman Sanaig
• Released in 2015 in French market
• 2016: permanent addition to the range
• 46% • 75% Oloroso/25%
Bourbon casks• SAQ $X
Sanaig, a small rocky inlet North West of the distillery is the name given to this continuously available release. Sanaig has a predominantly sherry cask influence owing to the significant time spent in oloroso sherry Hogsheads. These aged oloroso casks contribute a drastically transformed depth of colour and character compared to the mostly Bourbon cask matured Machir Bay. “A beautiful marriage of bourbon and sherry maturation balanced with classic Islay peat smoke and light citrus sweetness”. Anthony Wills, Founder
http://kilchomandistillery.com/our-single-malt-whisky
Tasting Notes
• Nose: Soft cooked fruits with caramel and vanilla
• Palate: Toffee, peat smoke and citrus lingering sweetness
• Finish: A lovely balance of peat smoke, fruit and sweetness
http://impexbev.com/kilchoman-distillery/
Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec(ppm by colorometry)
Middle cut ABV(%)
New make phenol(ppm by HPLC)
Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace
Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown
Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace
Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25
Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4
Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10
Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10
Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13
Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18
Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25
Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown
Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26
Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Ardbeg Dark Cove
• Released in 2016• Committee release 55% vs
Ardbeg Day release 46.5%– The darkest Ardbeg ever…
• Dark sherry casks…• SAQ $180
Tasting Notes
https://www.ardbeg.com/whisky/limited-editions/dark-cove-limited
Impact of Distillation on Peat Levels
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make?
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make
Fore
shot
s
Middle cut
Feints
More Peaty New Make
Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec(ppm by colorometry)
Middle cut ABV(%)
New make phenol(ppm by HPLC)
Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace
Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown
Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace
Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25
Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4
Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10
Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10
Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13
Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18
Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25
Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown
Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26
Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown
Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels
• Phenols decrease during maturation– Mecanism?
• But synergetic nature of oak derived compounds (guaiacol, vanillin, etc…) can enhance the peaty flavors
Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels
New Make 10 yo 15 yo 30 yo0
5
10
15
20
25
30
PPM
Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004
Bowmore Devil’s Casks III
• Third and final edition• Released in 2015• 56.7%• Double the Devil: First Fill
Pedro Ximenez and oloroso sherry casks
• NAS• SAQ $110
Tasting Notes• Nose: Breathe in a wave of rich, dark, exotic fruits, including
sultanas, mangos and raisins, fused with earthy angelica root and treacle toffee.
• Palate: Give in to temptation and sip the smooth, rounded taste of dates, chocolate fudge and salted treacle, warmed by orange-laced Aruba coffee.
• Finish: Finally, savour the powerful, long- -lasting finish of smoked fruitcake, blood orange and sea salt. Devilishly rewarding and a great addition to any whisky collection, this limited-edition release not only tells a tale, it spells the end.
Bowmore tasting notes
Your Favorite?
Favorites
12 3